Headers and exhaust installed - pictures

[wormdoggy]

Installed the belanger headers and exhaust today. I really wanted to share the install since there seems to be very little information on the belanger ( full system ) installation.

The install took a little over 8 hrs. We could have cut that down considerably , but we just wanted to get it right and learn from our first time modifcation on a Viper. And like everything in life, practicality is soooooooo much different then theoretical and what I read and found out today was no exception. Both of us were challenged with some aspects of the installation.

The side sills came out a lot easier then I had read on posts from other members. The key is to take your time and remove the inside wheel well. We found this to be a lot easier, especially to access the nut under the top louver area which proved to be challenging at first. The wheel well is very easily removeable.

The passenger side manifold / headers are much more complicated and tighter for removing and installing. The wiper cowl, although a simple disconnect is a real pain to remove. And the coolant bottle keeps getting in the way. Don't remove any of the hose connections, just have some one tilt the bottle to wards the wiper cowl, once removed, and the headers should remove and fit fine. The drivers side, on the other hand, once you remove the throttle cable and a few other simple items, is a real gem for installing the headers. Make sure the postive cable battery connection is properly shielded once removed.

I chose to reinstall the factory shields and I found the stock shields fit like a glove on the belanger headers with just some slight modification. The only issue is that the stock plug shields do not fit so you will have to order some after market socks for the new install. I believe partsrack carries these items.

The exhaust, bolts, clamps, was incredibly well designed and everything just fit with perfection. We installed the sill once for tip placement and then tightened and reinstalled complete. Make sure , as with all exhaust installs, that the exhaust tip is placed forward of center and slightly exiting the sill opening. They really do retract and once hot they are dead center to the sill opening.

And no wonder the sills get so hot on these cars...........I can't believe the amount of pipe that was removed. Absolutely unbelieavble and all FOR SALE!!! The sills run so much cooler now and it really feels, although early in the install, that the car just performs superior.

Overall a great day, a lot of fun and the sound is to die for. Every Viper should sound like this stock...........a tad loud but I am certain once the break in period is over they will sound superb!!

The only problem that I noticed when I got home was the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT came on. I really want to wash and drive the car tomorrow. Anything to worry about with the check engine light and is there an easy way to fix this problem. .....I undertand a reset should do the trick.

Thanks for all the posts that helped me with my install today and I hope you enjoy the pictures.
Patrick





Exhaust

Headers

Removeal of side sills

Disconnections

Stock manifold

New headers

For sale ........Look at all the excess pipe

New sensor wiring location

New exhaust

 

[RavenFan_94]

this is great for the archives. Thanks for posting and congrats on the upgrade!

 

[Kai SRT10]

The check engine light may be the secondary oxygen sensor. It's a common issue with header install. You may need to get a simulator.

 

[wormdoggy]

The check engine light may be the secondary oxygen sensor. It's a common issue with header install. You may need to get a simulator.

Can I disconnect the battery first and see if the " check engine light " resets before I purchase the simulator?

I understand sometimes this works.

Thank you

Patrick

 

[GR8_ASP]

You need the simulator. As far as I know there is no way around it unless you install the race PCM

 

[JimmyCrackcorn]

Dont forgot to tune it with the computer chip or whatever, that will make the gains worthwhile and way more noticable

 

[wormdoggy]

Ok thanks for all your help !

Never thought I new headers and exhaust could lead to other issues..............but...................

I never had a problem getting into reverse prior to the install and it seems now I need two hands to get the vehicle into reverse? Whats going on?

Is this a fuse related problem? I will check ?

Patrick

 

[Viper Specialty]

My first thought would be to check the wiring on the transmission for the Reverse Lockout Solenoid. It may have been damaged somehow during the removal of the crossover assembly. Also, if you happened to install a skip-shift delete at the same time as the exhaust, chances are it was installed on the wrong solenoid.

 

[Kai SRT10]

Ok thanks for all your help !

Never thought I new headers and exhaust could lead to other issues..............but...................

I never had a problem getting into reverse prior to the install and it seems now I need two hands to get the vehicle into reverse? Whats going on?

Is this a fuse related problem? I will check ?

Patrick

I will tell you exactly what happened.

You have shorted out your fuse. You have burned through wiring insulation (most likely wiring that goes to the oxygen sensors,) it has touched the headers, and this caused the fuse to blow. The reverse lock-out solanoid is on the same circuit as the oxygen sensors.

This happened to me. It has happened to at least 3 other people I know of as part of a header install.

Get under the car and check your wiring. Somewhere, something has melted. Fix the wiring. Then wrap the wiring in heat resistant tape. Then replace the fuse. Be aware that you don't have a functioning reverse lock-out, so be careful. As I said previously, you will have to get a simulator to replace the secondary oxygen sensors, otherwise you will not be able to get rid of the check engine light.

In addition to wiring, another header heat sensitive part of the car is the clutch line. It goes close to the headers and can easily be damaged by the heat. Make sure you insulate it well with heat resistant material. I used a combination of header wrap and heat tape to protect mine.

 

[wormdoggy]

Thanks guys..........very much!

Patrick

 

[Vipermann]

Ok thanks for all your help !

Never thought I new headers and exhaust could lead to other issues..............but...................

I never had a problem getting into reverse prior to the install and it seems now I need two hands to get the vehicle into reverse? Whats going on?

Is this a fuse related problem? I will check ?

Patrick

I will tell you exactly what happened.

You have shorted out your fuse. You have burned through wiring insulation (most likely wiring that goes to the oxygen sensors,) it has touched the headers, and this caused the fuse to blow. The reverse lock-out solanoid is on the same circuit as the oxygen sensors.

This happened to me. It has happened to at least 3 other people I know of as part of a header install.

Get under the car and check your wiring. Somewhere, something has melted. Fix the wiring. Then wrap the wiring in heat resistant tape. Then replace the fuse. Be aware that you don't have a functioning reverse lock-out, so be careful. As I said previously, you will have to get a simulator to replace the secondary oxygen sensors, otherwise you will not be able to get rid of the check engine light.

In addition to wiring, another header heat sensitive part of the car is the clutch line. It goes close to the headers and can easily be damaged by the heat. Make sure you insulate it well with heat resistant material. I used a combination of header wrap and heat tape to protect mine.

Yep ... exact same thing happened to me

 

[twinturbo3150]

Hey Worm, you seem to have the install down, How about putting my system on, I will provide the beer.

 

[twinturbo3150]

Hey Worm, you seem to have the install down, How about putting my system on, I will provide the beer.

 

[wormdoggy]

Hey Worm, you seem to have the install down, How about putting my system on, I will provide the beer.

Can't take all the credit. A lot of the work was done by a friend of mine and a lot of great advise from this forum. I was just there to assist and LEARN . I would be glad to help in anyway I can.....tools and the lift are certainly the key. I can also recommend him if you decide to install.

Now I just need fix the o2 sensor, find out where it melted and decide whether or not to install vortex cones. That system is REALLY LOUD! My left ear is killing me...........I;m not too worried about myself since I think it sounds deadly but I am worried about any passengers.


Thanks
Patrick

 

[Kai SRT10]

Now I just need fix the o2 sensor, find out where it melted and decide whether or not to install vortex cones. That system is REALLY LOUD! My left ear is killing me...........I;m not too worried about myself since I think it sounds deadly but I am worried about any passengers.

Yes, I encountered the same thing. On a rear-exhaust set up, I wouldn't mind the loud sound. With the side exit, however, it just punishes your left ear. I found that I began to drive like a granny after I did my header/exhaust mods. Before this, I had never even encountered the skip-shift feature, but I found myself driving carefully to keep down the revs to keep my ear from getting pounded.

Vortex cones help.

 

[wormdoggy]

Now I just need fix the o2 sensor, find out where it melted and decide whether or not to install vortex cones. That system is REALLY LOUD! My left ear is killing me...........I;m not too worried about myself since I think it sounds deadly but I am worried about any passengers.

Yes, I encountered the same thing. On a rear-exhaust set up, I wouldn't mind the loud sound. With the side exit, however, it just punishes your left ear. I found that I began to drive like a granny after I did my header/exhaust mods. Before this, I had never even encountered the skip-shift feature, but I found myself driving carefully to keep down the revs to keep my ear from getting pounded.

Vortex cones help.

Its funny you mentioned that because I'm also starting to drive within the 1-2000 RPM range just to keep the revs low. I spent the entire winter making CD's that I could play while driving. But guess what.......I can't hear the radio. LOL!!!!

Anyway.........I'll give it a little more time and then try the cones if I just find it too loud. Again.....I am concerned about passengers.

Thanks
Patrick

 

[wormdoggy]

UPDATE

The 02 sensor fuse was blown so I removed the negative terminal from the battery and replaced the fuse , temporarily , with the fuse from the hazards. The negative battery terminal was off for no more then 10 mins.

The check engine light is gone. And the car does not seem to be running rich any longer. Kai, made some good comments which I will review on the lift this weekend.

I will keep you informed. Either way, I am going to give the O2 wires one more check . I also want to check the clutch line one more time.

I also had a conversation with Lou Belanger about the issues. Good advise from a very knowledgeable guy.

Thanks
Patrick

 

[wormdoggy]

UPDATE :

I don't mean to drag this thread on, but I just wanted to finish with some final pictures and notations for those who wish to do a header install or exhaust install one day. I hope this helps in some humble way.

Well Kai, you were right, not that I was doubting you. The 02 sensor was burned under the sill shields and was shorting out against the aluminum consequently blowing the 15 AMP fuse. I thought when we replaced the sills, the stock shielding on the O2 sensor wiring would be sufficient enough but it also melted. Not to mention it retracted from its original position. BE AWARE OF THIS !!!! MAKE CERTAIN YOU COVER THIS PART WELL !!!

This happened on both sides although the computer was only reading a malfunction on the drivers side. Probably the passenger side did not short yet but I am certain it would have..............

QUESTION ! Why do they use the sensor wiring sheilding if it won't stand the heat and why do they cut it so short? Barely enough to put over 3/4 length of the wire. It melted like butter.

Anyway..........here's a couple of pictures.

Look how short the shielding is on the sensor wire?

So we decided to use spark plugs socks over the O2 sensor up as far as it can and then cover the remaining wire with exhaust header wrap, banded with 2500 degrees stainless steel banding locking ties . A bit over kill but better safe then sorry. I did not want to remove the sills again.

Also, there was no wire damage anywhere else and the vehicle was inspected thoroughly.





Here's a picture..........

Finally this.........look how well fitted the stock shields are over the headers. The socks are just for added protection. Again better safe then sorry .

So in the end the car is not running rich anymore. The Check engine light is gone and for some reason the exhaust note is not as loud as it was before.

I love the sound ,its not even close to being as loud as it was before. and the entire experience was very informative. I recommend, if you can, to partake in all your mods. Its the only way you'll learn and see how well built refined while at the same time simplistic these cars really are................

Thanks for all your help.
Patrick