How to fix Side pipe bubbling?

[lagalaxy13]

How to fix Side pipe bubbling?

What is the right way to do it?
I looked at a car today that had it. I'm very interested in the car how to you fix this problem the right way?
I tried a search but wasn't coming up with the right things.

 

[viper spray]

eliminate or replace the cats and repaint..........

 

[jwbond]

*** on it , kinda like you would do on a man-o-war......

I gave this a shot on mine, but I don't think my piss was acidic enough. I'll try drinking less water next time.


Seriously though, I have some minor bubbling both on my side pipes and hood. I would think the only way to fix it is to repaint. However, I plan on using dynamat's hood heat shield to lessen further damage. I'm not sure if there is anything that can be done for the side pipes or not.

 

[V10SpeedLuvr]

Its could be the heat from the stock cats doing it. Remove the sills and get them repainted. While they're off get rid of the cats (go catless or hi-flow). I suggest catless

 

[Mopar Steve]

The bubbling comes from the aluminum oxidising under the paint and lifting it. It actually is happening from the inside out. You will need to remove the side sills, strip all the paint off, and have someone tig weld the holes. Then they can be ground smooth, primed and repainted. Not a job for the average bodyshop. For cosmetics it could be sanded, filled with a good filler and repainted, but this is only a band-aid over a bigger problem. IT WILL COME BACK with this "quick fix". The problem is caused by moisture getting between the insulation and the side sill and not drying out propperly. It stays damp/moist and causes the aluminum to "rust". Always be sure to get the car up to complete operating temperature any time it is driven. Short trips like a ride arround the block after washing the car is not good.

Good luck with the sills.

 

[95Viper]

The bubbling comes from the aluminum oxidising under the paint and lifting it. It actually is happening from the inside out. You will need to remove the side sills, strip all the paint off, and have someone tig weld the holes. Then they can be ground smooth, primed and repainted. Not a job for the average bodyshop. For cosmetics it could be sanded, filled with a good filler and repainted, but this is only a band-aid over a bigger problem. IT WILL COME BACK with this "quick fix". The problem is caused by moisture getting between the insulation and the side sill and not drying out propperly. It stays damp/moist and causes the aluminum to "rust". Always be sure to get the car up to complete operating temperature any time it is driven. Short trips like a ride arround the block after washing the car is not good.

Good luck with the sills.

+1 this is the real reason for sill corrosion. Get OEM cats off and figure out a way to dry the inside of the sills if they get wet.

 

[plumcrazy]

+2. i had the same problem and HF cats and a paint job on them fixed it

 

[SNKEBIT]

The bubbling comes from the aluminum oxidising under the paint and lifting it. It actually is happening from the inside out. You will need to remove the side sills, strip all the paint off, and have someone tig weld the holes. Then they can be ground smooth, primed and repainted. Not a job for the average bodyshop. For cosmetics it could be sanded, filled with a good filler and repainted, but this is only a band-aid over a bigger problem. IT WILL COME BACK with this "quick fix". The problem is caused by moisture getting between the insulation and the side sill and not drying out propperly. It stays damp/moist and causes the aluminum to "rust". Always be sure to get the car up to complete operating temperature any time it is driven. Short trips like a ride arround the block after washing the car is not good.

Good luck with the sills.

Couldn't have said it better. We just repaired a set this way, one was so bad had to cut out a square and weld in new metal.
btw, if the insulation is pop rivited in, drill them out and have those holes filled also. Just another place for corrosion to start.

 

[SNAKE BITE]

if the insulation is pop rivited in, drill them out and have those holes filled also. Just another place for corrosion to start.

Once you remove and fill the rivit holes, how do you hold the insulation in?

 

[Mopar Steve]

The insulation is molded to fit between the sill and the exhaust. it cannot move. There is no reason for the rivits anyway.

 

[PittsburghRT]

The Gen1 cars used steel fasteners to hold the side sills on and steel rivets to hold the insulation in place. I bet your bubbling is mainly by the screw holes and rivets. The steel and aluminum do not react well together. My car has some minor bubbling too, but only around the fasteners. Chrysler did cover many side sills years back if owners complained and I was fortunate enough to buy a brand new set of the updated side sills from another VCA member who got them through Chrysler. The new side sills do not have riviets to hold the insulation in place, but instead they are glued to the inside of the sill. Also, there is a new bag of coated metal fasteners instead of the bare steel. I didn't even put these new sills on my car because mine are not really that bad, they cost a few thousand a side new, and are a discontinued item from Dodge.

 

[94yellow]

If you don't have the money to get them welded just use JB Weld where the bubbles are coming through and repaint will last just as long and don't wash your car after driving it. Do it while cold.

 

[95Viper]

The Gen1 cars used steel fasteners to hold the side sills on and steel rivets to hold the insulation in place. I bet your bubbling is mainly by the screw holes and rivets. The steel and aluminum do not react well together. My car has some minor bubbling too, but only around the fasteners. Chrysler did cover many side sills years back if owners complained and I was fortunate enough to buy a brand new set of the updated side sills from another VCA member who got them through Chrysler. The new side sills do not have riviets to hold the insulation in place, but instead they are glued to the inside of the sill. Also, there is a new bag of coated metal fasteners instead of the bare steel. I didn't even put these new sills on my car because mine are not really that bad, they cost a few thousand a side new, and are a discontinued item from Dodge.

PittRT, This turns out not to be true. Originally thought so but not true. The rivits on the Gen1's are also aluminum. The problem though is that the rivits went through the insulation(since they hold it on) and therefore the end closest to the exhaust is exposed. When the exhaust heats up the rivits heat up at a significantly higher rate than the sill. The sill is protected by the insulation so it heats up much later. This eventually causes popping around the rivit hole, combined with the other factors mentioned already.

 

[SNAKE BITE]

Doesn't Jeff Lemke sell fiberglass Gen 1 sills? This may be a good option also.

 

[SNKEBIT]

The insulation is molded to fit between the sill and the exhaust. it cannot move. There is no reason for the rivits anyway.

This is right. Kind of tricky reinstalling but not bad. I've also seen where the glued ones have the corrosion starting from the backside. I'm thinking if the insulation has freedom to move around in there a little, it helps keep the moisture from sitting in one place.

 

[PittsburghRT]

PittRT, This turns out not to be true. Originally thought so but not true. The rivits on the Gen1's are also aluminum. The problem though is that the rivits went through the insulation(since they hold it on) and therefore the end closest to the exhaust is exposed. When the exhaust heats up the rivits heat up at a significantly higher rate than the sill. The sill is protected by the insulation so it heats up much later. This eventually causes popping around the rivit hole, combined with the other factors mentioned already.

Now that you mention this some of the rivet heads are gone and it looks like there is a hole with part of a rivet left down where the insulation is.

 

[lagalaxy13]

great info guys. Thanks