Looking for Feedback: Spec Stage 5 clutch
- Thread starter Jsparks
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I think my Spec clutch is a stage 3 +.
The stage 5 may be different, but I noticed that you haven't received any replys. The 3+ chatters a bit at take off but holds the power well in my SRT-10 with 925 rwhp / 800+ rwtq.
It also seems to make shifting quickly a bit more difficult when warm.
Good luck,
Dan
The stage 5 may be different, but I noticed that you haven't received any replys. The 3+ chatters a bit at take off but holds the power well in my SRT-10 with 925 rwhp / 800+ rwtq.
It also seems to make shifting quickly a bit more difficult when warm.
Good luck,
Dan
imagine32000
Viper Owner
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Had a Spec Stage 3+ clutch in my cam'ed Z06, definitely a great clutch. My nod would go to any of their clutches. 
- Matt
- Matt
Joseph Dell
Enthusiast
Spec 5 *****. But the Spec twin disc is the ticket (for about the same price). Call Jeremy @ Spec directly and he'll hook you up as well as explain all the differences in the twin-disc clutches... including that the Spec 5 for viper is really a Spec 4+...
I already checked on the twin disc and they don't make it for the Viper. Should I go to a different clutch?
If there is one thing I have found out about clutches, it is that the ratio of upsides to downsides is directly proportional to the thickness of your wallet. The majority of "high power clutches" are a joke in one way or another, whether it be on/off undriveable, short life, pathetic ratings, contrant tinkering, finicky when hot, finicky when cold, finicky when the sun and moon align... the list goes on. For 1000+lb/ft cars, you really need to start looking at the top tier clutches, you get what you pay for. Tilton or Mcleod are the way to go if you have the means.
PS- While I dont have any experience with the Twin that JD is refering to above, you can be sure its a good clutch if he says so. I dont think there is an SRT variant however...
PS- While I dont have any experience with the Twin that JD is refering to above, you can be sure its a good clutch if he says so. I dont think there is an SRT variant however...
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WOW!! 5k for a clutch.
I hope it comes with a BJ.
My first 5 cars cost less than that.....COMBINED!Joseph Dell
Enthusiast
I wonder how they'd be different. The gen2 and gen3 trannies are interchangeable so i'd think the clutch/flywheel replacement would work.
odd...
the other high-hp clutch vendor is B&M who bought McLeod (sp may be incorrect). a lot of the super-fast vipers run that one.
The clutch is the same but the genIII has a trigger on the flywheel I believe....
I called Spec today and they said it should be released soon but who knows
WOW!! 5k for a clutch.
LOL, Not from me!
Though we are close to the border........... maybe we can send you up for a night of fun? LOL
(Now Thats what I call SERVICE!)
Gotta remember though its a hell of a lot more than just a clutch for that price, and will last the entire life of the car in most cases. Add up all the extras plus how many clutches of other types during a cars lifespan, and you probably wont be too far off... with none of the capability.
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Flywheel for Gen-2 and 3 are completely different.
I mentioned McLeod in my post as well, but even they have their downsides... albeit much fewer than other clutches out there.
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Haven't read a single good thing about the spec 5 but in my searching a lot a guys seem to like the stage 3+. My builder uses spec in everything they do.....but they haven't done a Viper with this much power.
Joseph Dell
Enthusiast
Spec 3 is good to about 1k rwhp. I liked it a lot. If that is your range, go for it!
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I have a low mileage McLeod sitting in my garage. Didn't like it, wouldn't buy one again. Trying to get the car moving from a stop up any type of incline was not fun though it did hold the power.
Dan
Dan
Joseph Dell
Enthusiast
I'll tell you right now that if I knew I could spend 5k on a clutch that would cost me NO MORE over the life of the car, i'd buy it. But that tilton (as stout as it is) is rebuild-able for a fee... and i'm not quite willing to take a chance on that as I don't know any high (1000+rwhp) hp cars running it.
yet.
yet.
Gotta remember Joe, the clutch pack itself is "generic". There are hundreds and hundreds of 1000+ Horsepower cars running Tilton clutches. Every Tilton clutch is tested and supplied with its own torque capacity- from that, you know EXACTLY what it can and cant do. The only unknown part of the equation is how the car actually drives- which we know quite well is perfectly fine when equipped in our configuration. We went out on a limb with these and made the investments- and never looked back. You wont see the streetable version of this clutch coming from anyone else unless it came through us first.
Most other clutches are rated with Horsepower- MEANINGLESS! If the clutch is rated at 2000 horsepower, whats to say it doesnt slip at 400 pound feet, but instead is rated at 14000 RPM or something along those lines? Torque and RPM are the ONLY stats that mean much of anything, and these are readily available from Tilton on any configuration they sell.
As far as rebuilds, it depends what you consider a rebuild. The Carbon is not replaced in a Tilton rebuild, they just shave the pedastals- that can also be accomplished with a special spacer plate, and it never needs to go back for a rebuild unless you damage the spring pack somehow. The smaller "Minor rebuilds" are done yourself, not at Tilton, and consist of simply swapping a plate every 10-15K street miles. Every 3 plates, you need to either shave the pedastals (Tilton Major Rebuild) or install a "life extender" plate (Personal Major Rebuild, we make the plates), and start back on your original thinnest pressure plate. Worst case if it really needs a rebuild from some type of damage or wear, it is usually less than ~10% of the clutch cost (not the whole package) and can be done in a week or less. (<300 bucks)
Breakdown:
1. New
10-15K Miles
2. Remove Pressure Plate 1, Install Pressure Plate 2
10-15K Miles
3. Remove Pressure Plate 2, Install Pressure Plate 3
10-15K Miles
4. Shave Pedastals OR Install Life Extender Plate 1, Remove Pressure Plate 3, Install Pressure Plate 1
10-15K Miles
5. Remove Pressure Plate 1, Install Pressure Plate 2
10-15K Miles
6. Remove Pressure Plate 2, Install Pressure Plate 3
10-15K Miles
7. Shave Pedastals OR Install Life Extender Plate 2, Remove Pressure Plate 3, Install Pressure Plate 1
10-15K Miles
...
....
.....
......
.......
I think its worth mentioning, while it looks like a lot of maintenance, its only about a 3 hour job every 1-2 years for the guys who drive a lot.
Basically you continue this pattern until either the carbon becomes too thin to use or the unit is shaved 3 times. Generally, 9-12 total intervals- as you can see, the car will be worn out long before the clutch is dead in most cases. We have devised a way to meaure wear without even removing so much as a single bolt, makes checking at an oil change VERY easy. When the clutch is dead, you need to purchase a replacement pack, about 1/2 the cost of the initial package.
No matter how you slice it, its worth it.
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