Message for the owners of the first 35 SC kits...

Sean Roe

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We've made recent changes to the installation instructions based on the feedback we've received to date.

1. Set your VEC1 dials at -20 low and +10 to +14 high, with the MSD timing retard box on 2 (to start, then tune the timing retard from there) on your stock PCM. Don't use the Mopar PCM as it has additional timing advance built in.

2. Take step #28 seriously. Nobody knows if the bolt was torqued properly at the factory. It's very important to check it. You'll need a 1&1/4" socket.

3. Though we setup a PCV system as needed for emissions, some cars have excessive blowby when the engine is hot and run very hard. If there's excessive oil in the vent tubes, block off the PCV hose which runs into the intake on the passengers side. Then, either install the factory valve covers to airbox hose, or the supplied Moroso oil separator breather. Too much oil in the intake will cause detonation or a misfire. You must have a PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) system in order to pass emissions.

These updates have been made to the final instruction packets in the last 15 kits. The final kits are going out this week.

Also, all is still moving ahead in Sweden on the setup and testing of the new engine management system. I'll keep you posted as more information is available.

Sean
 

ronviper

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EdmontonGts do you have snow yet and are you able to drive your car with the supercharger on. How does it feel and when will you get a chance to dyno it. Good luck
 

GTS-R 001

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ronviper,

I was able to drive it one day with the SC on it, it had a slight ping with the msd box set to -3 on 92 octane. yesterday I pulled the Mopar ECU and put my stock 2000 back in. This car sounds extremely powerfull now and all ping is gone withh the msd set at -2. The check engine light hasn't come on yet with the 2000 ecu so I think the roe SC must be heating the exhaust sufficiently to warm up the O2 sensors quick enough( reason for the mopar ecu in the first place. We have about 3-6 inches of snow right now, but once Sean has his fuel management system shipping I am going to flatbed the car to a dyno shop and tune it there. If vipermed's numbers are a good set to estimate from I think she will do at least 700 to the rear wheel. Vipermed has a higher lift cam 614 - 588 for mine, but my heads flow better so who knows I might see 725 or more.

Steve
 

8AVETTE

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BE SURE TO CHECK THE BOLT IN STEP#28. I followed every step except that one, and guess what? I herd a loud clunk under the hood. Yes I lost the harmonic balancer and crank pulley $600 MSRP part
crying.gif
No damage to the crank, So don't try to just look at the pictures.
 
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by 8AVETTE:
BE SURE TO CHECK THE BOLT IN STEP#28. I followed every step except that one, and guess what? I herd a loud clunk under the hood. Yes I lost the harmonic balancer and crank pulley $600 MSRP part
crying.gif
No damage to the crank, So don't try to just look at the pictures.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>Don -

If you haven't already purchased a damper, I may have one available for you.

Regards,
Doug
 

RedGTS

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What exactly does keying the crankshaft do and why does it seem to be a good idea on higher hp applications? And is it time or labor intensive to do?
 
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Sean Roe

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Keying the crankshaft is done for a couple of reasons. On a normally aspirated engine, it would be done to keep the harmonic balancer on in the right place for engine balance and setting / checking timing. On a belt driven forced induction motor, it may be done to keep the balancer from turning on the snout of the crank if there is a lot of drag from the supercharger. Centrifugal blowers generally require a keyed crank hub as they spin a lot of RPM.

On the Viper, the crank hub is not keyed. Therefore, it's important to make sure the bolt is torqued to the factory spec of 250 ft-lbs and no less, supercharged or not. It's the force of the balancer hub being pressed against the end of the crank that creates the strength and keeps it from turning, not the interference around the diameter of the crank snout, like a key would give. If the bolt's loose, the hub can turn due to the drag of the accessories it's driving. If you ever have a bad A/C compressor or water pump bearing cause excessive drag, supercharger or not, the hub will probably turn if it's not torqued.

On the Autorotor blower, the pulley is not keyed either and does not spin on its hub. It has a single 10 mm (about 3/8") bolt torqued to 60 ft-lbs. It's a low drag unit and spins low RPM. At cruise, it draws less than 1 HP.

In this case, learn from Don's mistake. He did not check to see if the bolt was tight as recommended in the instructions (we just put it in bold on the new copies). His came loose on one of his first drives, so we know it was loose to begin with.

I just recently checked the bolt on the R&D car, which was torqued in January. It's still at full factory torque and has not moved, even though the car has a lot of dyno time, some track time and a lot of abuse on it. We had consulted with the supercharger manufacturer and another engineer in regard to using the factory hub torque, so it was no guess by us that it would be ok.

If anyone wants to use one of the available tools to drill / key the crank on their car, they certainly can. Probably would be a good idea for sustained high RPM (racing) or higher boost applications.

Sean

<FONT COLOR="#ff0000" SIZE="1" FACE="Verdana, Arial">This message has been edited by Sean Roe on 11-20-2002 at 05:24 PM</font>
 

1TONY1

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Sean, Do you recommend pulling the bolt and using lock tite or just retorque.
The key is a good idea s/c or no s/c. I will also suggest that one of us (I WILL) buy the tool use it then ship it to the next guy......he will pay shipping both ways and whatever we all agree on ($10..$20...whatever) I see no reason for everyboby to buy one for single use. If you have used it once then next time you just pay shipping. If I ship it to Redgts to use, he keeps it until the next guy needs it then ships it direct to him. This way we are only paying shipping one way. After the tool gets paid for I don't know about the charges...suggestions ??? What do you guys think about that ?
 

RedGTS

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Tony, I was thinking the same thing. Seems crazy to buy a tool that you only need one time. And I think keying sounds like some cheap insurance.
 
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