GTS Dean
Enthusiast
It's a familiar story. It reads like a page out of my own diary from every commercial shop I've taken my Viper to.
I'm guessing your car pulled to the left before? I bet a few of the adjustment cams are rounded off too. I'd tell the shop that the caster is still not within factory specs and they'd better get it right if they expect the check to clear.
Here are a few tips to pass along to the tech next time you go in:
1) Use alignment specs from the '95 model year! Yes, they are different, but that's what Dodge recommends.
2) _Only_ make adjustments with the car's weight OFF THE TIRES. This insures long, happy, contented lives for the adjuster cams. They will counter that the frictionless plates null the loads. B.S.!
At the front:
3) Before doing any adjusting, start with the cams at both inboard pivot points of each wishbone in the center of their range. Rotate the rear adjusters on each wishbone pair, *snug* the nuts good, lower the car, jounce it and evaluate the next move. Then, move the front cams as required (again, with the weight off the suspension).
4) The only time you have to accept a 4 degree caster setting at the front is if you are running over 2 degrees negative camber.
At the rear:
5) Begin with the adjusters in the center of their range. This will get the caster angle about right. Then, rotate BOTH adjusters in time with each other - like with (2) 3/4" wrenches moving the same direction. *Snug* the nuts down, lower and jounce the car. Repeat until the camber is where it is supposed to be.
6) If the frame is straight and the bushings are in good shape, the wishbone adjustments should practically mirror each other across the car at each end.
7) When all the adjusting is done at each end of the car, USE A TORQUE WRENCH and tighten the adjuster locknuts to 75 lb-ft.
8) Set the toe and be happy!
P.S. - I don't pay for alignments that I'm not happy with anymore. I do them myself in my own garage.
I'm guessing your car pulled to the left before? I bet a few of the adjustment cams are rounded off too. I'd tell the shop that the caster is still not within factory specs and they'd better get it right if they expect the check to clear.
Here are a few tips to pass along to the tech next time you go in:
1) Use alignment specs from the '95 model year! Yes, they are different, but that's what Dodge recommends.
2) _Only_ make adjustments with the car's weight OFF THE TIRES. This insures long, happy, contented lives for the adjuster cams. They will counter that the frictionless plates null the loads. B.S.!
At the front:
3) Before doing any adjusting, start with the cams at both inboard pivot points of each wishbone in the center of their range. Rotate the rear adjusters on each wishbone pair, *snug* the nuts good, lower the car, jounce it and evaluate the next move. Then, move the front cams as required (again, with the weight off the suspension).
4) The only time you have to accept a 4 degree caster setting at the front is if you are running over 2 degrees negative camber.
At the rear:
5) Begin with the adjusters in the center of their range. This will get the caster angle about right. Then, rotate BOTH adjusters in time with each other - like with (2) 3/4" wrenches moving the same direction. *Snug* the nuts down, lower and jounce the car. Repeat until the camber is where it is supposed to be.
6) If the frame is straight and the bushings are in good shape, the wishbone adjustments should practically mirror each other across the car at each end.
7) When all the adjusting is done at each end of the car, USE A TORQUE WRENCH and tighten the adjuster locknuts to 75 lb-ft.
8) Set the toe and be happy!
P.S. - I don't pay for alignments that I'm not happy with anymore. I do them myself in my own garage.
