Need some emergency emergency brake help

TowDawg

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Anyone else tried this procedure for disabling the automatic e-brake tensioner? I'm tired of the e-brake dragging all the time on the inner pads. Above instructions are a little sketchy, would like to hear from anyone who has done this!

I'm interested also. I almost NEVER use my ebrake, but I have already been through this issue once and now my inner pads are getting low again. Since I use it so rarely, I've actually debated removing the caliper all-together and just using zip ties to hold the cables out of the way somewhere. I have some small, foldable wheel chocks that I use at the track and I could just keep them in the trunk and use them if I'm in a situation that I would have used the ebake in.
 

01sapphirebob

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So I believe the same thing has happened to my '08. Starting to hear some squealing when driving slow. Loud IMO but that could be because I have a vert. Now my question....does this mean that my rotor is shot for sure or do I still have time? I'm guessing the answer will be to pull the wheels and check but I was wanting to hear from others that have already done this and hear about what they have found from personal experience.
 

Allan

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If you catch it early enough, and the rotor isn't deeply scored, you can just put new pads on and go. A light score on the inside of the rotor won't hurt anything, only cosmetics, not function. It's on the inside, so who cares? Deep scoring, more than 1/32" may be a reason for a new rotor. (your call) More than 1/16", I'd replace it. 3/32" or more -no question. Some guys will say to replace no matter what, but these must be people with more money than they know what to do with, and over obsessed with how perfect their world is. -But a rotor that is scored on the outside where everybody can see it,........that would be ghetto. :crazy2:
 

Shad0w

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Looks like my 09 ACR has same issue.
Had my brakes inspected today and inside pads for ebrake were worn down to 3mm.
Guys at shop were scratching their heads over it.... glad I found this thread :) so is this a design issue?
 

TowDawg

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Yep. The funny thing is that I was searching this tonight also to look for fixes. I'm tired of replacing pads and I'm almost worn out again, so I'm debating pulling the ebrake calipers off completely. I never use it anyway, and I'll keep my wheel chocks for the track in the trunk just in case.
I'm going to pull the console apart tomorrow or Sunday and look at trying the trick mentioned earlier to disable the self tensioner. The description is really vague, but I'm sure it's simple enough to see once I have the console out.
 

TowDawg

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Dodge won't fix the window regulator issue either. Honestly, both are so widespread and safety issues that it surprises me they haven't done anything about either one.
 
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TowDawg

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The 2003-10 models all have a flawed design regulator. Don't get me wrong, they don't ALL break, but it is pretty common. And when one does break, their $1k/each.
Search the SRT10 section for threads.
 

TowDawg

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There is also a procedure that takes all the tension off the cables and disable the automatic tensioner. Remove the center console, pull lever up, shove down center spring between lever or pull cable to release pressure it is tight, insert punch or small screw driver in the left side of the lever in the hole. Just replaced mine with new pads from jon. Works great.

But the e-brake still works when applied after that procedure?

Does anybody know more about this?
I just pulled out the ole manual and see the procedure to take the tension off the automatic tensioner, but I believe it's just in reference to maintenance. As soon as you set the brake again, you're right back to the same problem. Do you leave something jammed in there to keep the tensioner from doing it's job? Like I've said, I rarely use the brake, but I do use it occasionally. I would love to know if there is a trick to let the brake be functional (even if I have to pump to the handle a few times to get it to grab), but then FULLY release away from the rotor when the brake is taken off. I would rather not remove my ebrake calipers completely, but I'm also not going to keep buying pads that wear out because of a stupid design. At least I could go with 18" wheels if I take them off though. ;)
 

Sonoman

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I hear ya, TowDawg-- the parking brake has no business constantly dragging against the rotors. It's a negative in a lot of ways, including efficiency and throwing more brake dust everywhere. You should never have to replace the parking brake pads for the life of the car (unless you're a bootleg turn addict ;) ). I can understand that the main brake pads need to hover within a hair of the discs, but why have the e-brakes doing the same? The self-adjusting feature is certainly not undesirable as long as the design allows the pads to return to a retracted position when the brake is released, which this design does not.
The e-brake is by Brembo-- would think they know how to build 'em, the problem could be in the Viper's implementation of the cable actuator. Why does this remind me of cheapie side-pull brakes on a bicycle?
 

ViperGeorge

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One of the Viper Parts Vendors (located in CO) is working on a fix. I believe they will replace the stock eBrake caliper with a different design that auto retracts when released. I've been pushing him to get it done. He already makes an upgraded eBrake for the Gen 1/2.
 

JAY

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Any updates ? Also replacing my "parking pads" ! Funny my Brake pads have lots of material , and parking pads inner , no material . Seems like a Poor Design , compared to other applications . :rolleyes:
 

Steve M

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Any updates ? Also replacing my "parking pads" ! Funny my Brake pads have lots of material , and parking pads inner , no material . Seems like a Poor Design , compared to other applications . :rolleyes:

How often do you use your e-brake?

Ever since I read about this problem, I have pretty much stopped using my e-brake...I replaced my parking brake pads last fall (they had the typical inner pad almost gone type wear), so I'll see how they are doing later this year when I check them during my fall maintenance schedule. I never heard of anyone looking into fixing the issue other than not using it so much...I'd love to be able to use it without worrying about whether or not it's gonna eat my parking brake pads with each use.
 

SYNFULL

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Just checked my parking brake pads and see my inner pad is half the thickness of the outer. How hard is it to replace the pads? Do you need to remove the caliper?

Thanks
 

Steve M

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Yes, the e-brake caliper needs to come off...the hardest part is probably retracting the piston, which for me required a pair of 90* bent nose pliers. It really isn't that hard to do though...budget about 2 hours if you've never done it before, knowing full well that it will take about half that time in the future.
 

SYNFULL

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Yes, the e-brake caliper needs to come off...the hardest part is probably retracting the piston, which for me required a pair of 90* bent nose pliers. It really isn't that hard to do though...budget about 2 hours if you've never done it before, knowing full well that it will take about half that time in the future.

Thanks Steve. I read about the special tool needed but I do have the 90* needle nose. I replaced the brakes on my gts so I guess it will be similar.
 

JAY

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Hi Steve I use my e brake when I park on a hill , hate to find my car rolling into traffic ....lol ! :omg:
How often do you use your e-brake?

Ever since I read about this problem, I have pretty much stopped using my e-brake...I replaced my parking brake pads last fall (they had the typical inner pad almost gone type wear), so I'll see how they are doing later this year when I check them during my fall maintenance schedule. I never heard of anyone looking into fixing the issue other than not using it so much...I'd love to be able to use it without worrying about whether or not it's gonna eat my parking brake pads with each use.
 

Steve M

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Thanks Steve. I read about the special tool needed but I do have the 90* needle nose. I replaced the brakes on my gts so I guess it will be similar.

They do make a tool, but don't get the one from Harbor Freight...it doesn't work. That's why I just improvised and used the bent needle nose pliers.
 

Dan Cragin

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This is normal and I have seen it on other cars that use a separate parking brake caliper. The parking brake pads ride on the rotor all the time, the inner pad does not get much airflow and the way the caliper slides there is a bit more pressure on the inner pad.

If you get a new set of pads, just change the inners not the outers, then you will have two extra pads for next time.
 

Steve M

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I was at 11k miles when I replaced them last year...the pads still had some life left, but the inners were worn way more than the outers. I could have swapped inner/outer, but I just replaced all four. I should have just replaced the inners only. I did keep the old pads, so I'll just pack them away.
 

Steve M

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Thanks, sounds like I am due for this. What made you realize it was time?

Reading about it on here prompted me to look at the inner pads on both sides...seeing how much they were worn compared to the outers prompted me to change them.
 

Viper Specialty

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We advise swaping the inners and outers every 10K miles. This evens out the wear and you can run them close to their full life before tossing and replacing them.
 

SRT09

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What is the part number for these pads on an 09? Does this include 2 or 4 pads? And how much are you guys paying for pads? Checked mine and sure enough inner is screwed :(
 
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