Negative battery cable disconnect

smashman

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2001 RT/10

Hi guys, I am planning to replace the current aftermarket stereo which is over 20 years old with a new one that has inputs for USB, etc. Is there any way to disconnect the negative battery cable other than jacking up and removing the rear wheel? Could likely manage without doing so as it should just be the one battery wire to the head unit that would be hot, but would prefer not to take any chances.

Thanks in advance for any insight!
 

efnfast

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install a battery cut-off switch in the trunk while you're there - now you can disconnect the negative without having to go through the typical BS of wheel removal
 
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smashman

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That is a very good suggestion. I assume that means for now, the only way to disconnect the negative for my purposes is to remove the wheel and do it that way?
 

luc

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2001 RT/10

Hi guys, I am planning to replace the current aftermarket stereo which is over 20 years old with a new one that has inputs for USB, etc. Is there any way to disconnect the negative battery cable other than jacking up and removing the rear wheel? Could likely manage without doing so as it should just be the one battery wire to the head unit that would be hot, but would prefer not to take any chances.

Thanks in advance for any insight!
It only take 5 minutes to remove the wheel and the access panel
Took you more time to post than doing it
 
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smashman

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I'll accept that as a fair shot. I always seem to have a fight getting the panel back on so was just hoping to avoid it if possible.
 

efnfast

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That is a very good suggestion. I assume that means for now, the only way to disconnect the negative for my purposes is to remove the wheel and do it that way?

yes

it's a gigantic pain in the ass that's why I put a cut off switch in the trunk (left side, about half-way between the tail-light and the amplifier) ... then just open trunk, flip switch, done :)

it takes longer to get to the battery than it does to put in a cut-off switch ... the hardest part is making a new negative battery cable to go from the battery to the switch (at least it was for me since all my tools are for top-post batteries and this uses a sidepost connection)
 
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smashman

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Thanks guys. I'll be ordering one of the switches and that will get done. Is the negative cable 1/0 AWG? Because I already have some really good 4 gauge cable and and I could easily use that to build the extension. But if it requires 1/0, I'll get that. When I install it, can I get to the existing negative cable end from inside the trunk, or does it route to elsewhere off of the battery?
 
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smashman

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Ahhhh....Now I think I see. So I'll need to have a longer cable built to come off of the battery which would go to one terminal on the cutoff switch in the trunk. And another to come from the other terminal of the switch back to the grounding point. Correct?
 
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smashman

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What does that entail? Is it a difficult process? I'd assume it's the same thing each time I would disconnect the negative cable, or is there some difference?
 

efnfast

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Thanks guys. I'll be ordering one of the switches and that will get done. Is the negative cable 1/0 AWG? Because I already have some really good 4 gauge cable and and I could easily use that to build the extension. But if it requires 1/0, I'll get that. When I install it, can I get to the existing negative cable end from inside the trunk, or does it route to elsewhere off of the battery?

I would go 2ga minimum even though the factory used 4ga

What does that entail? Is it a difficult process? I'd assume it's the same thing each time I would disconnect the negative cable, or is there some difference?

You turn the car on and drive it. If you notice a difference with how the car drives just because you cleared its adaptive memory your tune is ******.
 

maverickagm

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The obd2 system on your 2001 might be quicker to learn. I've had a few obd1 cars that would take a few trips to readjust the air fuel ratios. The worst thing that ever happened was my 93 ford probe stalled when rolling to a stop. Not a big deal.

That being said, If you're just installing a stereo head unit, it's much easier to just pull the fuse for it from the fuse panel. If you're running new wires for a new amplifier and what not, then yeah, pull the negative wire from the battery.
 

maverickagm

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Also, there are ways to get usb and bluetooth on old stock head units with cd changer controls. If you're interested in that alternative, I could tell you about it. I have a black box with a usb and sd card slot in my glove box. It works on the tape deck in my 93. It uses the rca audio inputs and the cd changer din connection on the back of the deck.

If you're not, I get it. Some people lime these old school OEM (Alpine) units though.
 
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smashman

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The obd2 system on your 2001 might be quicker to learn. I've had a few obd1 cars that would take a few trips to readjust the air fuel ratios. The worst thing that ever happened was my 93 ford probe stalled when rolling to a stop. Not a big deal.

That being said, If you're just installing a stereo head unit, it's much easier to just pull the fuse for it from the fuse panel. If you're running new wires for a new amplifier and what not, then yeah, pull the negative wire from the battery.
Also, there are ways to get usb and bluetooth on old stock head units with cd changer controls. If you're interested in that alternative, I could tell you about it. I have a black box with a usb and sd card slot in my glove box. It works on the tape deck in my 93. It uses the rca audio inputs and the cd changer din connection on the back of the deck.

If you're not, I get it. Some people lime these old school OEM (Alpine) units though.
Thanks for the replies. Yes, I remember now mine relearns very quickly from just a short drive. I figured this out when my battery completely died a couple years back, and as soon as I put the new one in I went for an emissions test and it failed. I drove it around for about 10 minutes and went back and it passed just fine. As far as the head unit replacement, I did disconnect the negative just in case and it drove just fine this evening.

I actually already had an aftermarket unit, a really nice Pioneer from 2001 with the CD changer, which used an IP-BUS cable to connect to the deck. I know I could have used the IP-BUS cable with an Iphone or player either bluetooth or direct but I could not figure out how to use it to play from a USB using the deck controls, which I what I prefer. Both Pioneer and Crutchfield told me the deck wouldn't read from a USB, much less be able to control it, maybe I should have asked here as well. In any case, the swap is done and was super easy and I went with a Kenwood.

Speaking of amps and wires & mounting, I am going to add a Matrix Plus pre-amp to my setup. I have one in my truck and it's fabulous. My two amps are mounted in the trunk vertically on the front wall above the spare tire. The Matrix will fit nicely on that flat spot to the right of the amp pictured, even with the amp endcap installed. I am wondering if you know if it's safe to use a short screw or two there to mount the Matrix, or is the gas tank right up against there? If not, I'll either use some Velcro or fabricate a bracket that could attach to the wood the amp is mounted to, as the Matrix is light, only about 2 lbs.
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smashman

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I would go 2ga minimum even though the factory used 4ga



You turn the car on and drive it. If you notice a difference with how the car drives just because you cleared its adaptive memory your tune is ******.
Thank You. I plan to order some 1/0 extensions from Battery Cables USA as suggested above. Hopefully they'll have an end that attaches to the battery post that will be the same as the OEM one.
 

yzf1999

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Just pull the interior light fuse in the fuse panel…this will kill power to the radio. I did this when I aligned my doors so the interior lights wouldn’t drain the battery. When I finished and put the fuse back in the radio station presets had to be reconfigured, so the fuse must of cut power to it also.
 

efnfast

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Thank You. I plan to order some 1/0 extensions from Battery Cables USA as suggested above. Hopefully they'll have an end that attaches to the battery post that will be the same as the OEM one.

You need to specify what type of end as there are several different connection methods.

I ordered pre-made from this website since I didn't feel like buying the tools to crimp side-post terminals. They call it 'type D'

Then the other end will depend on the battery cut-off you buy. The Flaming River one above uses 3/8'' eyelets.
 
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