Negative battery cable disconnect

[smashman]

2001 RT/10

Hi guys, I am planning to replace the current aftermarket stereo which is over 20 years old with a new one that has inputs for USB, etc. Is there any way to disconnect the negative battery cable other than jacking up and removing the rear wheel? Could likely manage without doing so as it should just be the one battery wire to the head unit that would be hot, but would prefer not to take any chances.

Thanks in advance for any insight!

 

[efnfast]

install a battery cut-off switch in the trunk while you're there - now you can disconnect the negative without having to go through the typical BS of wheel removal

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[smashman]

That is a very good suggestion. I assume that means for now, the only way to disconnect the negative for my purposes is to remove the wheel and do it that way?

 

[luc]

2001 RT/10

Hi guys, I am planning to replace the current aftermarket stereo which is over 20 years old with a new one that has inputs for USB, etc. Is there any way to disconnect the negative battery cable other than jacking up and removing the rear wheel? Could likely manage without doing so as it should just be the one battery wire to the head unit that would be hot, but would prefer not to take any chances.

Thanks in advance for any insight!

It only take 5 minutes to remove the wheel and the access panel
Took you more time to post than doing it

 

[smashman]

I'll accept that as a fair shot. I always seem to have a fight getting the panel back on so was just hoping to avoid it if possible.

 

[efnfast]

That is a very good suggestion. I assume that means for now, the only way to disconnect the negative for my purposes is to remove the wheel and do it that way?

yes

it's a gigantic pain in the ass that's why I put a cut off switch in the trunk (left side, about half-way between the tail-light and the amplifier) ... then just open trunk, flip switch, done

it takes longer to get to the battery than it does to put in a cut-off switch ... the hardest part is making a new negative battery cable to go from the battery to the switch (at least it was for me since all my tools are for top-post batteries and this uses a sidepost connection)

 

[daveg]

If you need some custom cables made, this place is awesome

Quality Copper Battery Cables Made in the USA! - BatteryCablesUSA

www.batterycablesusa.com

I had some 1/0 made for my 69 Vette and the car never started better. They will put any ends on the cables you want.

 

[smashman]

Thanks guys. I'll be ordering one of the switches and that will get done. Is the negative cable 1/0 AWG? Because I already have some really good 4 gauge cable and and I could easily use that to build the extension. But if it requires 1/0, I'll get that. When I install it, can I get to the existing negative cable end from inside the trunk, or does it route to elsewhere off of the battery?

 

[smashman]

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Ahhhh....Now I think I see. So I'll need to have a longer cable built to come off of the battery which would go to one terminal on the cutoff switch in the trunk. And another to come from the other terminal of the switch back to the grounding point. Correct?

 

[white out]

Correct.

 

[Goggles Pizano]

You do realize that each time you turn that switch off you will have to have the PCM relearn right?

 

[smashman]

What does that entail? Is it a difficult process? I'd assume it's the same thing each time I would disconnect the negative cable, or is there some difference?

 

[efnfast]

Thanks guys. I'll be ordering one of the switches and that will get done. Is the negative cable 1/0 AWG? Because I already have some really good 4 gauge cable and and I could easily use that to build the extension. But if it requires 1/0, I'll get that. When I install it, can I get to the existing negative cable end from inside the trunk, or does it route to elsewhere off of the battery?

I would go 2ga minimum even though the factory used 4ga

What does that entail? Is it a difficult process? I'd assume it's the same thing each time I would disconnect the negative cable, or is there some difference?

You turn the car on and drive it. If you notice a difference with how the car drives just because you cleared its adaptive memory your tune is ******.

 

[maverickagm]

The obd2 system on your 2001 might be quicker to learn. I've had a few obd1 cars that would take a few trips to readjust the air fuel ratios. The worst thing that ever happened was my 93 ford probe stalled when rolling to a stop. Not a big deal.

That being said, If you're just installing a stereo head unit, it's much easier to just pull the fuse for it from the fuse panel. If you're running new wires for a new amplifier and what not, then yeah, pull the negative wire from the battery.

 

[maverickagm]

Also, there are ways to get usb and bluetooth on old stock head units with cd changer controls. If you're interested in that alternative, I could tell you about it. I have a black box with a usb and sd card slot in my glove box. It works on the tape deck in my 93. It uses the rca audio inputs and the cd changer din connection on the back of the deck.

If you're not, I get it. Some people lime these old school OEM (Alpine) units though.