Negative battery cable disconnect

smashman

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2001 RT/10

Hi guys, I am planning to replace the current aftermarket stereo which is over 20 years old with a new one that has inputs for USB, etc. Is there any way to disconnect the negative battery cable other than jacking up and removing the rear wheel? Could likely manage without doing so as it should just be the one battery wire to the head unit that would be hot, but would prefer not to take any chances.

Thanks in advance for any insight!
 

efnfast

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install a battery cut-off switch in the trunk while you're there - now you can disconnect the negative without having to go through the typical BS of wheel removal
 
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smashman

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That is a very good suggestion. I assume that means for now, the only way to disconnect the negative for my purposes is to remove the wheel and do it that way?
 

luc

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Hi guys, I am planning to replace the current aftermarket stereo which is over 20 years old with a new one that has inputs for USB, etc. Is there any way to disconnect the negative battery cable other than jacking up and removing the rear wheel? Could likely manage without doing so as it should just be the one battery wire to the head unit that would be hot, but would prefer not to take any chances.

Thanks in advance for any insight!
It only take 5 minutes to remove the wheel and the access panel
Took you more time to post than doing it
 
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smashman

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I'll accept that as a fair shot. I always seem to have a fight getting the panel back on so was just hoping to avoid it if possible.
 

efnfast

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That is a very good suggestion. I assume that means for now, the only way to disconnect the negative for my purposes is to remove the wheel and do it that way?

yes

it's a gigantic pain in the ass that's why I put a cut off switch in the trunk (left side, about half-way between the tail-light and the amplifier) ... then just open trunk, flip switch, done :)

it takes longer to get to the battery than it does to put in a cut-off switch ... the hardest part is making a new negative battery cable to go from the battery to the switch (at least it was for me since all my tools are for top-post batteries and this uses a sidepost connection)
 
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smashman

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Thanks guys. I'll be ordering one of the switches and that will get done. Is the negative cable 1/0 AWG? Because I already have some really good 4 gauge cable and and I could easily use that to build the extension. But if it requires 1/0, I'll get that. When I install it, can I get to the existing negative cable end from inside the trunk, or does it route to elsewhere off of the battery?
 
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smashman

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Ahhhh....Now I think I see. So I'll need to have a longer cable built to come off of the battery which would go to one terminal on the cutoff switch in the trunk. And another to come from the other terminal of the switch back to the grounding point. Correct?
 
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smashman

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What does that entail? Is it a difficult process? I'd assume it's the same thing each time I would disconnect the negative cable, or is there some difference?
 

efnfast

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Thanks guys. I'll be ordering one of the switches and that will get done. Is the negative cable 1/0 AWG? Because I already have some really good 4 gauge cable and and I could easily use that to build the extension. But if it requires 1/0, I'll get that. When I install it, can I get to the existing negative cable end from inside the trunk, or does it route to elsewhere off of the battery?

I would go 2ga minimum even though the factory used 4ga

What does that entail? Is it a difficult process? I'd assume it's the same thing each time I would disconnect the negative cable, or is there some difference?

You turn the car on and drive it. If you notice a difference with how the car drives just because you cleared its adaptive memory your tune is ******.
 
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