Negative battery cable disconnect

[daveg]

FYI - every time you kill power to the ECU, it will wipe your long-term fuel adaptive blocks. It may also wipe your IAC (Idle Air Controller) stepper motor calibrations. That's why most folks will connect a battery tender.

Me? I've never done either. In Texas, I'll let my car sit in the garage for 2 months or more with the alarm off with no issues. When it gets longer than that, I'll hook up a trickle charger and flip it on the 2 amp setting to let it slow charge for about 2 days.

^^^^^^^^^ Same here.

 

[smashman]

Thanks for the input guys. My reason for the disconnect is really just to make it easier if I'm working on the sound system or anything electrical. I have a Noko genius 2a trickle charger I use if the car is going to sit for a while, but it's very seldom it will sit for more than a few days without being started up and at least taken for a short drive. Anytime I've had to disconnect the battery, I've never had any problems upon reconnection, other than one time after the battery went dead and I went for an emissions test right after installing a new battery. It failed the test, but after a 10 minute drive, I went back and it passed. The ECU/PCM seems to relearn pretty quickly without any ill effects.

 

[asuj158]

Continued....We used a heavy duty 24 inch plenum rated zip tie with some paracord tied to it to fish the cables.

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Here is the finished mount. The cables lay nicely on the floor and are not in the way of anything. I bought some of these to cover the nuts on the switch. They don't fit perfect but they were cheap and came in a 10-Pack. Terminal Covers
Flaming River also sells ones specific to the unit. I think it's the FR1003TM. They'll certainly fit better so I may grab a pair.

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Here were the steps and some more info:
Turn cutoff switch to the "off" position.
Raise car, jack stand, remove tire, remove battery cover.
Disconnect negative cable from battery and ground point. Save the plastic cap that is on the OEM cable, the new cables don't come with one.
Fish the pointed end of the zip tie down through the small opening in the trunk where the cables will go. It goes through without much trouble, if you lay down under the car and pull back the plastic just a little, you'll be able to see the zip tie and and pull it through, making sure to leave a foot or so of paracord in the trunk. This is easier with a helper.
Now, untie the paracord from the zip tie and tie it to the two 3/8" eyelets on your cables. We put a small zip tie near the cable ends a couple inches below the knot to keep them together.
Next, carefully pull and wiggle your cable ends up into the trunk by pulling on the paracord end from the trunk side. It doesn't hurt to have a helper also guiding and pushing a little from below. This was actually much easier than expected, the cable ends came through without much coaxing needed.
Attach the 3/8" eyelets to the cutoff switch, first sliding the silicone terminal covers over the eyelet ends (if you use the covers)
Attach the 5/16" eyelet to the ground point above the battery.
Attach the battery terminal to the battery.
The cables are just the right length and fit nicely in the battery compartment. We used a couple zip ties for extra security.
Test operation.
Replace battery cover, install wheel and take a nice drive for your PCM to relearn if needed.
Hope this helps, and hope I didn't forget to mention anything.

Did you have to remove the carpet/liner against the back wall?