Paxton Supercharger Tips

Daniel Cragin/DC Performance Inc

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We have installed over 20 supercharger systems in our shop and would be happy to help anyone with an install. We have found many ways to make the system better. On average we spend an extra 10 hours on each install on detials that give better reliabilty and power. Each unit we install is tuned specifically to the car. We have our own ways of tuning the FMU and timing controller, plus we can meet the fuel requirements needed on modified engines.
 

GTSnake

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So Dan,

With all this talk from people that have had some bad experiences recently. Do you foresee any issues with the Paxton set up? Do you have any idea of what type of problems they may have been having?
 
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Daniel Cragin/DC Performance Inc

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To be honest, I am unaware of any problems people are having. I have heard some discussion of complaints, but do not know the specifics.

I will say, that if you have a modified engine you will need to upgrade your fuel requirements (Or the engine will run lean). In stock form, I see no issues with the kit.

I strongly recommend you have your engine qualified before installing a supercharger. Check compression, oil pressure and the rod and main bearings. Have it installed by a professional shop, and once finished, check the air fuel ratio on the dyno and make sure it never goes above 12.2 to 1. Thats our lean limit.

There are lots of little tricks to make this system work better and the fuel requirements vary from engine to engine.
That's why we tune each system to the car.
 

2002_Viper_GTS_ACR

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I'll Take the bait. One problem is the A/F ratio. If a set of T&D's drastically change A/F ratio on an otherwise stock car, so that the Paxton Kit cant manage it, EVEN when the documentation/install manual with the kit says "For vehicles with minor modifications (cat back, etc.) install the included 8:1 FCU ...." then I am stumped what the "minor modifications" / "etc." is. As my car was only 422hp, 12hp up from the install of the T&D's from the 410hp stock before the T&D's were installed. And I am not alone, other COMPLETELY stock cars (since my T&D's preclude me from the category of "stock"), have a lean running condition with the Paxton kit as well.

I said before, I would hold off on the kit if I were a DIY'er, but if a tuner is installing it, then great, by all means, as the tuner will own the final responsibility of the products success on your car. Lord knows Paxton sure wont.

Remember I gain nothing from this, as I don't sell said product, nor benefit/profit from its success or failure. Doesn't mean anyone is being dishonest, just means I have no reason other then my commitment to the Viper Family to help where/if I can. As a matter of fact, I promote the idea of having Dan Craigen, Underground Racing, Mike Adams and any other such qualified installers do the install AND tuning of the kit. Its not a DIY kit, unless you can TUNE a Fuel system yourself (with no instructions provide by the Manufacturer).

My 2 cents. My closure is coming shortly, when complete, I will speak more freely.

Jon

PS. Dan, why not just post the "Tips", it would reach more people and take up less of your time, then having everyone call you. Or is this just a post to solicited business? Only Tip I can give, is don't DIY, have a tuner do it !!

PSS. The 600hp from a cremepuff, been there, done that, 12/30/2003, here is the post, and read the first response, it was "writing on the wall" http://vca2.viperclub.org/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB14&Number=357228&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1
 
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Daniel Cragin/DC Performance Inc

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Here are some tips:

1. The FMU can be shimmed and a different spring used if you want to fatten it up.

2. Mount the timing controller inside the car and away from the heat. More prevalant on cars with headers.

3. We use a three step cooler plug.

4. Stiffen the supercharger inlet tube.

5. Preload the crossmenber with the vehicle off the ground.

6. Mount the air to water tank futher back, it hits the hood on some cars.

7. Vent the crankcase better, blowby increases detonation.

8. Route the oil return line as far away from the belt as possible.

9. Remove the oil pan when you tap the hole.

10. Make sure none of the intercooler lines rub and route
them carfuley.

11. Make sure you mount the fuel pumps up high enough so they will not scrape in driveways.

12. Make sure the fuel line crimps are solid.

13. Test both pumps before driving.

14. Use both crank pins (not just one)

15. Cooling system improvements and fascia duct helps track cars.

16. Timing controller can be reconfigured for smoother delivery.

17. Car with high flow cats, head work, cam change may need fuel system upgrades.

Hope this helps.
 

Qualitywires.com

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Thanks for corking him up, Dan... You're a good man.
Fletcher , do you have a paxton? If not, you have no idea what you're talking about.

The above mods are not ground shaking mods that will affect air to fuel that much. Dan C what you are speaking of is the two shims and 8:1 FCU. They instruct all of this in the manual. There is very little you can do with stock injectors and the paxton fuel kit to make it run richer.

Why don't you post a chart of the A/F ratio on a stock viper. I would be willing to bet you it's no where near a flat 11-12 on the A/F that Paxton says it gets. If it did, the kit would not pass CARB. Like I said in previous post, the only way you are going to get your fuel to fatten up is by switching injectors. If you put too musch pressure on the stock injectors you will make them go static. As far as the colder plugs you have to run those because of the lack of fuel.

I agree with what Dan wrote as far as the installation of the parts, but placement on the fuel pumps high or low has no effect on the air/fuel nor does any of the mods above besides the shims. The only way you will get richer on the paxton system is if you go with larger injectors. Besides all of this, Paxton does not support their products and gives you inferior parts. Dan has an interest with Paxton so I can understand his promoting of this product. There is a lot of cover up on this issue, but again things are going to happen for Paxton very soon.
 

2002_Viper_GTS_ACR

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Thanks for corking him up, Dan... You're a good man.

lol, that corked me up ? hmm.. Didn't notice.. and I never inferred that Dan was anything other then a good man.

Anyway, thanks Dan for the insight, I appreciate you offering this up to the Viper community. If I have somehow offended you or made you feel like I am against you, I apologize.

I only think you might be giving people a false hope that the kit is 100% perfect, and its not in my experience and a group of others experience. I just want people to hear both sides. I still say that in order to use this kit no matter if your stock - modded, you need a competent Tuner, with experience tuning the Split Second Piggy Back Computer that comes with the kit. You wont get the support from Paxton, so your tuner needs to know what to do (or have a better relationship with Paxton, then their average end customer does).

Jon
 
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Daniel Cragin/DC Performance Inc

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I am not offended by anyones response. My only goal here is to help. I use the Paxton product as well as many others, If I can help them improve the product I will. As I have said before, If you use the kit, have it installed by a tuner and check the air fuel ratio on the dyno. If it needs any corrections it can be taken care of before it becomes a problem.

For those interested in a Paxton kit, here has been my experience.

1. We have had no problems getting the air fuel ratio right
on stock engines with or without headers (except
Bellanger which we have not tested).
2. If you add high flow cats or or any engine modifications
on top of the exhaust, we recommend you upgrade the fuel
system. We can help you with this.
 
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