Please help..VIPER WONT START :(

[VENOM600HP]

Okay, Here is what happened..

I have a 1993 rt10, I left it out in the driveway last night with hardtop and windows on, it rained..really hard, and of course the windows leak.

so...

I wake up in the morning, running late for work and notice that my vipers flashers are going off and the inside says "alarm set", I was running late for work so I was forced to take another car and leave the Viper alone

I get home and of course the Vipers battery is dead, I go out and buy a new battery, clean all the battery acid build-up, and install the new battery.

Everything seemed normal, started car and took it for a test drive around the block...

It died on me...

so i mess with the - and + cables and got the viper to work, just enough to get it home, cleaned the connections again, put cables back in battery, now the car fires up and shuts back off....turn the key..fires up...shuts off immediantly..

any ideas would be greatly appreciated

Thanks to all

Patrick Mullins.

 

[BADVENOM]

talk to chuck tator of tatorsdodge..914-763-3136

Not sure but could be something with computer if battery was changed and power cut and then reattached. Thought I read something about that. Anyway talk to the "VIPERWIZARD".
He knows all!LOL

 

[BruceW]

Is it turning over but acting like it has no fuel? It may also be the EEM (the alarm unit). There have been some posts about a problem with the relays (or whatever) in the EEM acting up in high humidity. If the unit is armed it will not active the fuel pump relay. One fix to try is to disconnect the connectors to the EEM (it's under the dash by your right knee)for about 2 min. and then reconnect them.

 

[Buckeye Viper]

Water in the spark plug wires?

 

[GR8_ASP]

The alarm is engaged and needs to be reset. The starts and dies immediately is a definite sign of the alarm system working. If the key fob does not cause the alarm to disengage then you may have to resynch the fobs.

 

[SNKEBIT]

what he said!!!^^^^^^

 

[DChan415]

Yup, its the alarm cutting fuel.

 

[SNAKE BITE]

this is exactly the problem I'm having right now. Can someone post the fix????

 

[ROCKET62]

I had this saved from a previous search as I was having some issues with my alarm system. This should be the correct procedure to reset the system (this was for a GTS, but also works for an RT/10):

Here is the reset sequence. Should be done with both doors closed:

Step 1: Turn the ignition key from the OFF to ACC position 4 times as follows. OFF-ACC-OFF-ACC-OFF-ACC-OFF-ACC-OFF.

Step 2: Open & close the following in any order so that you hear a single beep. Hood, driver door, passenger door, hatch back.

Step 3: Press both buttons on the key fob until the car beeps.

That's it. The system is reset.

This procedure is useful in many situations, after removing a battery, charging a dead battery, etc.

ALSO:

In looking at my service manual for my 1993 Viper, it has the following sequence to enter the diagnostics mode:
1) cycle key to accessory position 3 times, and then leave the key in the accessory position.
2)Beginning with both doors closed you can test the circuits. Open each door wait one second can close. Horm should sound. Turn headlamp switch to interior lights and leave for at least 1 second and horn should sound.
3)Cycle key to the run position to test ignition which will also take the sytem out of the diagnostics.

ALSO ALSO:

Here is the sequence to reset the key fob as well:

Originally posted by Ron in THIS THREAD :

1. Ensure the alarm system is not armed.

2. (1996 ~ 1998 GEN II) Ground pin C13 loose green wire taped to harness of EEM connector, which is under dash mounted on the left side of trans tunnel, directly above accelerator. Easy access if you remove knee bolster and rubber bungee cord that holds EEM to tunnel.

2A. (1999 ~ 2000) As #2, but instead of C13 you're grounding Terminal 1 of the DLC. (9/30 update...Ron found out that DLC is the Data Link Connector, i.e. the under dash OBD2 connector which is above your left knee)

2B. (ALL GEN I) Ground green "Program" Wire located next to SAM and RKE modules. Is a green wire with a bullet connector on end. Is located under driver's side instrument panel.

Hint, Make sure you're connecting to a solid body ground by testing it with an ohm meter.

3. Turn ignition to run position while green wire is still grounded!

4. EEM acknowledges entry into programming mode by flashing the dash LED. If it doesn't flash, you either:

- Have the wrong wire

- Aren't solidly grounded

- You came off ground after the ignition switch was placed in the run position. Start over.

5. (All GEN II) Press BOTH buttons on the transmitter simultaneously and continuously for 10 seconds. You will hear a triple horn chirp when FOB is accepted by the EEM.

5B. (All GEN I) Press and release the arm or disarm button on either FOB, then same for the next.

Hint: Make sure your transmitter is working, i.e fresh CR2032 battery $1.19 @ Zbattery.com and good clean battery contacts. Many times your problem is an electrically weak connection within the FOB itself.

6. You MUST program all FOBS during the same programming process. You can program up to 4 on a GEN II and I think only 2 on a GEN I.

That's it. Turn the ignition off and remove green wire from ground, then test the arm and disarm functions.

I've done 4 FOBS myself and found it quite easy once you find the green wire.

Good Luck!

 

[Supercharged Vipermad]

DISCLAIMER!!!!

That last part by Ron, about resetting the fob.....that is actually for RE-PROGRAMMING a dead or NEW fob....not for resetting it. While it might work to RESET as well..I think there is an easier way.

 

[Steve-Indy]

Above MAY NOT be enough...let us know as there are more tricks.