Price opinions: 2000 RT/10 Paxton

[SAABseanSCANIA]

Looking for some honest input on value from the community.

This is dealer to dealer, not public sale. I'll provide what details I DO have, and list other points. Looking to potentially buy the car to keep for myself.

2000, red no stripe, black gut
42k miles
HRE 540s look to be in good condition
Paxton Novi2000
??? short shifter
Unsure of exhaust, but not stock and not extremely loud
??? Headers
Looks like soft top only
Clean autocheck
Clean carfax
Clean title


-tires are at 4/32
-has been test driven by inspector, no findings
-run video provided seems smooth
-Inspector's OBD reader wouldn't pick up
-noted in very good condition overall
-I ASSUME it has factory cast bottom end because I just don't know

Again, I wouldn't be buying this to retail, this would be to keep. How about some other things to ask and look for? To be clear, I'm not flying out to see this and it's not a retail sale so I can't have them send for PPI. What I see is what I get.

Honest opinions of what you'd pay is what I seek. I expect commentary, however please accompany statements like "I wouldn't buy a modded car" or "not unseen" with a value; I'm not going to have my feelings hurt, I value the input even if negative.

 

[lane_viper]

GTS or RT/10? Makes a difference in price as GTS are worth significantly more.

Nevermind its in the title.

My swag would be between $35k and $40k

 

[99RT10GTS]

GTS or RT/10? Makes a difference in price as GTS are worth significantly more.

Nevermind its in the title.

My swag would be between $35k and $40k

Ok, holding my thoughts, but If you can get that car for $40K, no brainer. The work alone, if running right(I would get it dynoed and is the boost at 6PSI) should be making 600ish RWHP. Cost just for the parts is $9-$10K

 

[redtanrt10]

Wholesale probably $35k or a little more. But with site unseen your betting the motor, trans and rear end are good. SC on the car 25 years or? Makes a difference on the drivetrain Since buying from pictures and no inspection, 30k.

 

[efnfast]

FWIW a few years ago I paid $55k for an 01 rt/10 w/ 30k and a forged engine, paxton, bunch of supporting mods like fuel (which turned out to be no good and then had to sink another $10k in to it to fix it up) and CCWs

I generally avoid heavily modified cars because they never seem to be done right.

Any time I buy stock or minor mods (exhaust, etc.) it generally requires no supporting monetary spends (other than if I want to mod it more)

Any time I buy heavily modified on the surface it seems okay and within a year I'm spending another $10-15k to fix shit that wasn't done right (fuel, drivetrain, electrical, etc.)

 

[lane_viper]

Ok, holding my thoughts, but If you can get that car for $40K, no brainer. The work alone, if running right(I would get it dynoed and is the boost at 6PSI) should be making 600ish RWHP. Cost just for the parts is $9-$10K

I was factoring in that a modified RT\10 would turn a lot of buyers away including myself. Hence why I mentioned the price I did.

Just my opinion, not trying to ruffle feathers.

 

[Goggles Pizano]

....
Just my opinion, not trying to ruffle feathers.

I am highly offended by your insensitive, @99RT10GTS wears ******* not feathered head gear.

Edit: i can't believe the site filters pant ies

 

[serafins]

Dealer to dealer wholesale price should be somewhere around $35k

 

[Kris396ss]

FWIW a few years ago I paid $55k for an 01 rt/10 w/ 30k and a forged engine, paxton, bunch of supporting mods like fuel (which turned out to be no good and then had to sink another $10k in to it to fix it up) and CCWs

I generally avoid heavily modified cars because they never seem to be done right.

Any time I buy stock or minor mods (exhaust, etc.) it generally requires no supporting monetary spends (other than if I want to mod it more)

Any time I buy heavily modified on the surface it seems okay and within a year I'm spending another $10-15k to fix shit that wasn't done right (fuel, drivetrain, electrical, etc.)

This. As someone who worked 'in the industry' for a while at speed shops and have come across tons of built/heavily modified cars, I will rarely if ever buy one myself because the vast majority of the time the vehicle is either a basket case of issues stemming from poor workmanship or it was built well and works great but is tired out and will need a full overhaul at some point anyway negating much of the cost savings or having those performance parts to begin with.

With that said, sometimes it is beneficial buying an already modded car, particularly if there are quality parts on it and they are in good shape to where even if the execution of the build is poor, you can still save some money on parts. I just wouldn't consider something like bolt ons and a blower to be something that should justify a higher price point, since the risk that the added cylinder pressures of the blower accelerated bearing wear, drivetrain wear, rich tune washing down bores or a lean tune beating up pistons etc... is very real and the blower itself depending on age may require a rebuild at some point as well.
Any money you save on the mods may quickly be absorbed back into the build having to refresh or repair stuff shortly down the road.

Personally I would just treat it like any other Viper, and pay what you think the going price of that car would normally fetch had it been stock given the condition and mileage, just my opinion. It's not a "build" with a bunch off valuable custom work or anything like that. It's a bunch of bolt ons that lose their value upon being installed and some of which, like the blower, could potentially be a detriment to a car you're buying as much as it can be a perk.

 

[Badsnek]

I agree with whatever everyone’s already said in here. As someone who currently owns 3 supercharged Vipers if you’re buying it to keep for yourself for awhile and don’t mind it you end up sinking a lot of money in it, do it. $35k is a solid wholesale number. However I’ve yet have to find one I haven’t had to sink $5-$10k into just to straighten dumb shit out. $2k+ for tires and alignment alone for typically helps contribute to that. The tires will always have tread but if they are older than 6 years then they are junk. I’d never recommend someone buying a supercharged one to try and flip. Most of these were built stupid long ago and need a bunch of upgrading. I could spend all day talking about it, but this is the short and sweet of it.