Procedure to replace head gaskets on gen1
- Thread starter 95Viper
- Start date
JRB
Viper Owner
I did mine using the service manual. I was surprised at how easy it was to do the job. Took my son and me a full day to do it, working slow and steady! A lot of parts come off, so be organized and when you start reversing the process, you won't have trouble.
Jim
Jim
SNKEBIT
Enthusiast
step 1. take off bolts holding parts on
step 2. take parts off block
step 3. put new gaskets on
step 4. put parts removed from step 2 back on
step 5. put bolts back in from step 1
step 2. take parts off block
step 3. put new gaskets on
step 4. put parts removed from step 2 back on
step 5. put bolts back in from step 1
Ulysses
Enthusiast
Beer
SNKEBIT
Enthusiast
step 6. Beer
p.s. wait 'til after for beer, you don't wanna do it twice
Bad_Byte
Enthusiast
You probably could do it in a day. I've heard 4 hours from a good tech.
However, I would seriously consider:
1. New head bolts (I've heard ARP are better than stock)
2. New lifters (I know the style has changed and I now have considerably less lifer noise plus the lifters are fairly inexpensive)
3. New paper gaskets (possibly, intake manifold, water pump etc. you could make these but why?)
4. Sanding block to clean the block.
5. May need to readjust your valves if heads are milled.
There is a little more to it than BEER!
Although, like oil, beer is a necessity to do the job right.
However, I would seriously consider:
1. New head bolts (I've heard ARP are better than stock)
2. New lifters (I know the style has changed and I now have considerably less lifer noise plus the lifters are fairly inexpensive)
3. New paper gaskets (possibly, intake manifold, water pump etc. you could make these but why?)
4. Sanding block to clean the block.
5. May need to readjust your valves if heads are milled.
There is a little more to it than BEER!
Although, like oil, beer is a necessity to do the job right.
ROCKET62
Has Left the Room!
#1 most useful tip - Gallon size Zip Lock Bags. Makes the reassembly process a snap - did mine and had NO extra pieces/parts! Also work good for keeping the right push rod / rocker combo together as you want to put things back exactly like they were. I used a yellow sticky note to label each bag
#2 - you'll need "reverse torx" sockets to remove the intake manifold and the thermostat housing. Bought the set at sears for about $20.
#3 - while your at sears - get the hose clamp pliers - makes the hose clamp removal / assembly simple.
#4 - remove the air box cover on the passenger side as this makes working on that side MUCH easier.
#5 - muscles - if you're using a manual torque wrench. Final torque spec for the head bolts is 120#. Follow bolt sequence with 40#, 80#, 120# torqueing series.
#6 - a table to set all your tools and parts on - really saves the back.
#7 - BEER!
Are you also replacing the valve stem seals, putting in a 180 thermostat, new plugs and wires?
Good Luck!
#2 - you'll need "reverse torx" sockets to remove the intake manifold and the thermostat housing. Bought the set at sears for about $20.
#3 - while your at sears - get the hose clamp pliers - makes the hose clamp removal / assembly simple.
#4 - remove the air box cover on the passenger side as this makes working on that side MUCH easier.
#5 - muscles - if you're using a manual torque wrench. Final torque spec for the head bolts is 120#. Follow bolt sequence with 40#, 80#, 120# torqueing series.
#6 - a table to set all your tools and parts on - really saves the back.
#7 - BEER!
Are you also replacing the valve stem seals, putting in a 180 thermostat, new plugs and wires?
Good Luck!
R
RTED
Guest
Craig,
We should have coordinated our efforts. I just replaced mine this last weekend. Give me a call or e-mail me.
RT/ED
We should have coordinated our efforts. I just replaced mine this last weekend. Give me a call or e-mail me.
RT/ED
R
RTED
Guest
Craig,
We should have coordinated our efforts. I just replaced mine this last weekend. Give me a call or e-mail me.
RT/ED
We should have coordinated our efforts. I just replaced mine this last weekend. Give me a call or e-mail me.
RT/ED
Thanks guys and thanks Rocket62 for good tips.
Valve stem seals - the Wizard said no with 4K miles on Viper
New head bolts - Wizard said no
180 thermostat - I think I'm putting stock one back in since I've never had overheating issues (now I'm jinxed)
Plugs - New last year, might consider wires.
Ed - I'm SO bummed I didn't talk to you last week.
Valve stem seals - the Wizard said no with 4K miles on Viper
New head bolts - Wizard said no
180 thermostat - I think I'm putting stock one back in since I've never had overheating issues (now I'm jinxed)
Plugs - New last year, might consider wires.
Ed - I'm SO bummed I didn't talk to you last week.
One more thing -- Is the service manual good about tips on grease or lube or whatever for reassembly? I'd hate to be finished and someone say, you should have put some oil on this or that before reassembly. For instance, since I'm keeping valve stem seals, do I remove and lube them with something?
ROCKET62
Has Left the Room!
You're welcome. Service manual is pretty helpful for the whole process. Probably don't need any assembly lube. Some of the gaskets were kind of a pain to remove - so take your time, especially if you're using a razor blade or other metal scrapper. Only other thing I seem to recall is that the manual states to soak the thermostat housing gaskets in water prior to reassembly. As the plug wires are 10 years old, it certainly could not hurt to change them ~ $70 from the Wizard and very easy to replace while you're doing this project.
Dave R
Enthusiast
I just completed replacing the head gaskets on my 94 RT/10. Hope some of the following tips help to expedite your replacement.
Tips when replacing Gen1 head gaskets:
Procedures in Gen1 Service Manual are a good starting point.
Most if not all nuts and bolts are metric. Probably could do most of the job with a ¾ inch drive socket set, except for the head bolts.
Helps to have a torque wrench rated for ‘inch-pounds’ as many bolts are spec'd to ‘inch-pounds’.
Remove air box on heater fan – allows better access to exhaust manifold.
Removing the fuel tank end of the flex fuel line to the intake manifold is one of the more tricky procedures if you have never done it before. (See procedure in manual). Leave flex line attached to intake manifold – may need to replace small o-ring if detached.
Leave throttle bodies, idle speed control, MAP sensor attached to intake manifold.
When removing intake manifold bolts, it helps to have at least a 12 inch socket extension (1/4 or 3/8 drive) and a TELESCOPING MAGNET with about a ¼ inch head – small enough to fit through intake runners. The magnet will assist in retrieving dropped bolts, especially when reinstalling. It also can be used to start the bolts when reinstalling. A metric socket can be used on the torx bolts. NORMALLY WILL NEED NEW INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKETS.
When removing thermostat housing, just remove housing from heads, no need to separate housing unless you are going to replace thermostat. WILL PROBABLY NEED TWO NEW THERMOSTAT HOUSING GASKETS.
No need to remove coil packs from heads – remove with heads.
Will need to remove 3 bolts attaching power steering pump to bracket ( access through holes in pump drive wheel) – one of the more complex tasks!
When removing rocker assemblies, devise a method to store and reinstall in same respective positions. Same for push rods.
After removing head bolts, it is helpful to use a thread chaser to clean up the threads, especially if they are corroded. Its surprising how burred the threads are even when they ‘look’ good. Good idea to wire brush or wire wheel corroded bolts. DO NOT OIL BOLTS PRIOR TO RE-INSTALLING, this will throw off torque specs. No need to replace head bolts if this is the first time reused. Torque to 40 – 80 – 100.
When removing exhaust manifolds it is not necessary to disconnect from exhaust pipe. They just need to be moved to gain access to the bottom row of head bolts. It will help if you suspend and tie the manifolds in a convenient position.
BE CAREFUL WHEN SCRAPING ALUMINUM PARTS. Best to use plastic scrapper or ‘Scotch-Brite’ pad – a little more work, but safer.
Tips when replacing Gen1 head gaskets:
Procedures in Gen1 Service Manual are a good starting point.
Most if not all nuts and bolts are metric. Probably could do most of the job with a ¾ inch drive socket set, except for the head bolts.
Helps to have a torque wrench rated for ‘inch-pounds’ as many bolts are spec'd to ‘inch-pounds’.
Remove air box on heater fan – allows better access to exhaust manifold.
Removing the fuel tank end of the flex fuel line to the intake manifold is one of the more tricky procedures if you have never done it before. (See procedure in manual). Leave flex line attached to intake manifold – may need to replace small o-ring if detached.
Leave throttle bodies, idle speed control, MAP sensor attached to intake manifold.
When removing intake manifold bolts, it helps to have at least a 12 inch socket extension (1/4 or 3/8 drive) and a TELESCOPING MAGNET with about a ¼ inch head – small enough to fit through intake runners. The magnet will assist in retrieving dropped bolts, especially when reinstalling. It also can be used to start the bolts when reinstalling. A metric socket can be used on the torx bolts. NORMALLY WILL NEED NEW INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKETS.
When removing thermostat housing, just remove housing from heads, no need to separate housing unless you are going to replace thermostat. WILL PROBABLY NEED TWO NEW THERMOSTAT HOUSING GASKETS.
No need to remove coil packs from heads – remove with heads.
Will need to remove 3 bolts attaching power steering pump to bracket ( access through holes in pump drive wheel) – one of the more complex tasks!
When removing rocker assemblies, devise a method to store and reinstall in same respective positions. Same for push rods.
After removing head bolts, it is helpful to use a thread chaser to clean up the threads, especially if they are corroded. Its surprising how burred the threads are even when they ‘look’ good. Good idea to wire brush or wire wheel corroded bolts. DO NOT OIL BOLTS PRIOR TO RE-INSTALLING, this will throw off torque specs. No need to replace head bolts if this is the first time reused. Torque to 40 – 80 – 100.
When removing exhaust manifolds it is not necessary to disconnect from exhaust pipe. They just need to be moved to gain access to the bottom row of head bolts. It will help if you suspend and tie the manifolds in a convenient position.
BE CAREFUL WHEN SCRAPING ALUMINUM PARTS. Best to use plastic scrapper or ‘Scotch-Brite’ pad – a little more work, but safer.
