Question about heads and intake?

[Go Fast For Life]

How long will it take me to remove the intake and heads of a 97 GTS with the engine still in the car? Is there a gasket set I can order from DC for this?

 

[Qualitywires.com]

took me about 4 hours-5 hours. not that hard if you have your tools layed out.

 

[Joseph Dell]

Took me 7 hrs including supercharger removal. i took my time, cleaned every part as it came off, and kept everything neatly sorted. It should have taken less, but I took my sweet time.

It is quite easy...

JD

 

[Jack B]

A couple of hints:

1. If the headers are original, spray the header bolts with liquid wrench 24 hours prior to the work. If you have tubular headers there is some give in their location. Tie them down all the way to the outside and as low as they will go. This will give you some extra room and allow you to pull the heads off without binding against the headers.

2. Don't rotate the engine (AT ALL)with the heads off, you can pop a liner.

3. Get a fuel line qc/disconnect tool. The intake comes off with the fuel line.

4. Make sure you have a mirror on an extension rod to view the connectors so that you can access the release.

5. Make sure you have a thin wall socket with a thin/long extension to access the intake bolts, 1/4" drive works best. Use a 1/4-3/8" adapter and torque them with a 3/8" torque wrench.

6. A complete set of 1/4" and 3/8" Torx bits are also helpful.

7. A good battery powered screw driver with Torx bits and 1/4" sockets speeds things up immensely.

 

[Go Fast For Life]

Jack, AB, and Joseph,

Thanks for the tips. Jack, is it really that easy to pop a liner on the gen2 engines?

Ron

 

[Bill B]

Not that easy but don't take that chance. Call Jon B for the gasket kit. Gen 2 gaskets are nice and cheap. The job isn't that hard but it is fun.

 

[George Bryce]

Jack, good info and tips. This group of Viper owners and fans are awesome. GB3

 

[Qualitywires.com]

While the heads are off, I would stud the block with ARP. You can get the set for $288.00

The only problem I have found with the ARP stud is that you will need to make sure you put the lower studs in as far as they can go in. Don't torque them in with a wrench or rachet, just by hand. If they don't go in deep enough then the headers will have to be trimmed a bit to make them fit. Not a big deal, but it can cause some cussing!

Also make sure that you take off the oil pan and the baffle because more than likely you will end up dropping a lifter rod in the engine.

Also blow out all coolant from the bolt holes BEFORE you put new bolts on because if you get water trapped inside of the holes, you could cause it to crack your block from a hydraulic effect.

Put WD-40 oil in the cylinder walls to help lube on the first start and the light oil will burn off quickly.

I would scrap off any carbon deposits of the top of the cylinders while you have it off. It can cause detonation.

I use a vacum to **** out all the coolant in the passages.

Clean off all oil on the surface of the heads before you install the head gaskets. If you are using the factory head gaskets, sometimes the cardboard they pack it with will stick to the head hasket. What I did was soak it in warm water the the paper would come off the head gasket.

Don't over torque the studs or bolts too tight, they can warp your block if the torqued too much. Torque in the sequence you are suppose to. I did something like 35lbs, 70lbs and then 95lbs without moly lube. (Remember I used ARP studs).

Also, when pulling the plenum off, I used and extension with a small powerful magnet to help take the bolts off.

When putting the headers in, chase the threads with a bolt threader, the reason why is due to small amounts of aluminum being in the grooves of the header bolt threads that can cause you to pull out the existing threads or making it very hard to put the bolts back in correctly. By doing this little step, it will make putting your headers on a lot easier and safer. Last thing you want to do is strip your threads...because life will **** after that!

Mark your plug wires in the order they came out...looking at the manual is a little tricky to route your plugs back where they are suppose to go.

I have more tips but I don't want to bore ya with them all...hope this helps. Just double check everything and take your time...you're not in a NASCAR race so speed will result in forgotten parts or something. If you have parts left over, put them on ebay...LOL!