Question on coolant flush

Simms

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Is there any way to speed up this slow process? Is it possible to just remove the lower radiator hose and flush the system some how with a hose and then completely drain out the hose water before you put in the distilled water and antifreeze?
 

Steve-Indy

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Actually, most dealers do "speed up" the process.

At home, however, I like to be sure that I'm doing the BEST job possible...and, admit that to many, I over do it (using 25-30 gallons of distilled water counting the final fill). To me, this is a CRITICAL SYSTEM that generally seems to take a back saet to frequent oil changes...sad, as one can make a big mistake neglecting the coolant, with all of the electrolytic processes in play...just my humble opinion...though, admittedly, I admit it is a pain in the Asp.
 
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Simms

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To me, this is a CRITICAL SYSTEM that generally seems to take a back saet to frequent oil changes...sad, as one can make a big mistake neglecting the coolant, with all of the electrolytic processes in play...just my humble opinion...though, admittedly, I admit it is a pain in the Asp.

I do agree with you here. What about those flush kits, like Prestone?
 
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Simms

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Big question is whether you want to drain the block or not.

Thats part of my question. Could that area be flushed out without removing the drain bolts in the block?
 

ViperRay

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I don't see how. If the fluid comes out looking clean and you're uncomfortable with removing the plugs, I would just drain and flush the radiator/overflow bottle using the threaded plug on the bottom driver's side of the radiator. The overflow bottle behind front fascia would need to be sucked out.

If the fluid has been changed a couple of times already as it should have been ('96 GTS) and you are putting in the same green stuff, this will probably suffice.
 
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Simms

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I'm fine with doing it the long way, I'm just pinched with time right now.
It shouldn't be dirty, but it will bother me then if I don't do it correctly.
 

Steve-Indy

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Simms, agree that drain plugs SHOULD be removed, but admittedly, they are often left in place by many. One of the most time consuming tasks is actively suctioning/flushing out the coolant and black crud that gathers in the bottom of the overflow bottle...I DO THIS regularly, and IT TAKES TIME...I probably would save time by removing fascia, then the bottle itself for cleaning.

On my first coolant change on a given Viper (Gen I or II) I always switch them over to Roe Racing hoses...noting that the OEM tubes are rather disgusting inside once they have been in place a few years. The bleeder valve on Sean's top GenII hose speeds the elimination of air from the system as well. As you know, some vent thru the coolant temp sensor port, others thru the suggested thermostat housing port...takes a long, slender, 3/16" SQUARE drive to do this and you need to GUARD or REMOVE your serpentine belt , while others fill thru the heater hose (some use a pressure pump...and a wet suit !!!).

I MAKE MYSELF go the long way, but it is my least favorite routine service job...and, I often drag it out over 2 days before I'm truly satisfied...NOT at all practical for most circumstances !!!
By the way, I have never trid the flush kits that you mentioned so I have no opinion (sort of).

If your Viper's coolant has indeed been changed in the past (and not longer that 2 years ago), you likely can do a quicker flush and be fine as already noted above. Choice of coolant plays a role in MY mind...if you use OEM IAT type coolant (as in "prestone green") and are sticking with same, you can likely do "quickie"...noting that I have been known to add the final 50-50 mix, then put some msile on it, then drain and refill again (within a couple of days) with a new batch of 50-50 mix since this coolant protects by binding at the get-go, as I understand it. If you are planning to switch to "5 year/100,000 mile" type (such as Dexcool), then you should REALLY flush out the old stuff to achieve the full protection of the new stuff (OAT type)...and DON't leave it in 5 years !!!!.

As you know, Gen III Vipers are using HOAT (hybrid organic acid technology) type coolant ...and., I THINK that GM is rumored to be dropping Dexcool in favor of HOAT (Zerex's G-05 type ???).

You might be interested in the action filed concerning Dexcool as described here: http://www.cwcd.com/CM/ClassActions/ClassActions35.asp

Just some ramblings that work for me and our Vipers.
 
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Simms

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Thanks for the info Steve-Indy. I do have a new pair of Roe hoses ready to go on. I'm doing a Roe supercharger soon, so I figured I would do a coolant flush before hand since I am adding a 180 thermostat as well.
When I look at my overfill bottle through the hole, it looks clean. Can you actually see the grim in there?
 

BJH1

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Forgive a possibly stupid question from a new guy, but how often should the coolant be flushed.
 

Steve-Indy

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Yeah, you get a hint of "bottle scale" when you try to view the coolant level with a bright light and see NO LIGHT (I have found this on more Vipers than I care to count while hassling my fellow Club Members at monthly meetings...as in, original coolant at the 7 year point !!!)Also, you can see grit in the fluid coming out of the bottle as well.

By the way, the link above is presented merely to encourage folks to investigate what to use BEFORE you act...and is NOT meant to slam Dexcool in general as I do not have the necessary experience or statistics at hand necessary to make judgements for others. I do gererally follow the rule of sticking with factory fills for our Vipers unless DODGE has decreed otherwise.

Yes, I'm old and conservative !

BJH1, 2000 Service Manual for Gen II says to change coolant at 3 yrs "regardless of mileage" for FIRST change, then every 2 yrs/30,000 miles thereafter.
 

ByteMe

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I just bought some Prestone 5 year/50,000 mile antifreeze that is guaranteed to to be compatible with all other standard antifreezes (i.e. ethylene/propylene glycol-based which leaves out Dexcool). In other words you can have some of the old green stuff in there and this new antifreeze will not lose its years and mileage capability. It was $9.99 a gallon at Schucks up here in Washington state.
 

Ron

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Dex-Cool is ethylene glycol based:

"Havoline Extended Life Anti-Freeze/Coolant DEX-COOL is a single-phase, ethylene glycol type universal automotive engine coolant based on a Texaco's patented long life organic corrosion inhibitor system."

Regardless of the rumors, it has worked fine for me in all of my vehicles. No corrosion, no water pumps.
 

Torquemonster

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Just before I left Neew Zealand to come here I met an inventor who had solved a problem that has largely gone unrecognized with water cooled engines. He brought his invention over to my place and he demonstrated it for me. I think there is a huge potential for it here and around the world - but educating people of the need is the biggest problem.

Coolant goes OFF after about 2 years - like sour milk. Flushing the engine and radiator still leaves significant residue - EVEN using commercial flush pump kits, there are pockets in the castings where casting sand, scale, and coolant residue just don't "flush" - PLUS a lot of the build up is not loosened by the currently available methods.

What happens when you add fresh milk to a little bit of sour?

That is what happens to your engine after you flush - its better than it was - but the next coolant will go off a LOT quicker than the original did.... and it gets worse over time.

A lot of engines that have "mysterious" over-heating or running hot issues compared to other identical engines that run normal - is due to something as simple as excess casting sand lodged into the water jackets in nooks and crannies - and sand is not a good thing in your cooling system.

This invention uses a low pressure/high volume PULSE that literally shakes off anything in the system that can be loosened, and vibrates out the crap that is unreached by pressure and normal flushing methods.... it is amazing what it brings out of en engine said to be "clean" by traditional methods.

Do not use high pressure as it will break seals - the system is not designed for high pressure. But very high volume, going by a pulse, at operating pressure - say 10psi - gets the job done.

According to the experts - 80% of engine failures have been traced back to some heat related problem - so having a coolant system in top shape is the best insurance you can have.

I was going to see if we could get one of those machines over here. They are expensive - but like a vending machine - if you sat one in a busy workshop and charged $100 a flush (they are easy to hook up and a truck or car can be done in under an hour) - then they'd make a good investment for the owner, for engine longevity and in customer service. Awesome for fleet operators.

This machine was so successful most public workshops would not get one because they earn money when things break, and extending engine life was not their interest (they were that honest about it too.... lol). However the truck fleets and workshops that did try it are very impressed, as is the NZ Army, now using them on their military vehicles.... also used a lot in boats because they suffer most - sitting around so much. The machines are fully portable and can do a small car engine up to 1000+hp diesel.

If there is genuine interest - I will remake the connection and enquire about getting a machine to the USA as a start.... there's a business opp here for the right person/people, I just don't have the spare capital to do this - especially not alone.

The product is better than anything out there - this guy did his research. I will definitely want to get a machine into the Torquemonster servicing plan once my main venture is operational, because I want my customer cars to last longer than anyone elses making that kind of power. :2tu:
 
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