radiator
- Thread starter martyb
- Start date
There are many pros and cons. Here is a recent thread describing the experiences of two of our Members who know their way around cars:
http://forums.viperclub.org/threads...adiator-Replacement-Option?highlight=radiator
I would suggest that you read carefully the posts by Ron, Mad Max, and Dan Cragin.
Good luck !!
http://forums.viperclub.org/threads...adiator-Replacement-Option?highlight=radiator
I would suggest that you read carefully the posts by Ron, Mad Max, and Dan Cragin.
Good luck !!
dave6666
Enthusiast
I had a factory one recored here in the DFW area. It was $400 including going from 2 rows to 3 rows. The tanks are already sized for that. But seeing as you live in a cold climate you can probably get away with just having the factory 2 core rodded and the leak repaired.
Having had multiple failures with the Ron Davis as well as the Roe 3-pass, as far as aftermarket goes I've switched to Howe if you want to go that route. No issues so far from many users.
Having had multiple failures with the Ron Davis as well as the Roe 3-pass, as far as aftermarket goes I've switched to Howe if you want to go that route. No issues so far from many users.
I have always been happy with the cooling on my car, so I will probably just have it redone 2 row. Car is mostly stock and not a track car. Getting it back in will be fun though, that hinge on the drivers side is a pain. I loosened it and it made it a bit easier.
dave6666
Enthusiast
Pretty sure you just disconnect the hose and pour in fluid till it won't take any more. But it does sound messy. But hey, you're Gen 1 and I've only done the Gen 2. Probably 10 times dammit.
I had my re-cored by a shop in Indy. IMO that is the best way to ensure an accurate fit. I also had my updated to a 3 row core. I also bought an aftermarket oem-replacement one. I wasn't totally happy with it and it is back in the box on the shelf. It probably would be fine however I'm pretty particular on things so getting the original re-cored was the best thing fo me.
So it probably really doesn't matter which hose on the heater core I'm guessing. Also, someone mentioned fill with the upper radiator hose off until fluid runs out, then connect and fill until it won't take anymore. I'm guessing this is done with the car turned off?
dave6666
Enthusiast
Typically you'll want to fill it as much as it will take (engine off and cold), run it until the thermostat opens and fluid moves, then shut it down and let it cool and top it off via the same methods. The Gen 2 makes it easier as it has the fascia overflow bottle that will provide makeup coolant as the air works itself out. I believe the Gen 1 has a reputation for not being self purging of air. Hence the extra steps and mess. As many radiators as I've put in my car, I've never had to "burp" it. When all the hoses and tanks are functioning and in working order, it is self purging of air.
opnwide
Enthusiast
I went aftermarket aluminum a few years back, and in a year I had a leak. It cost $100 to have it repaired and it never cooled the same as before. Now its starting to leak again.
Next time I'm going Mopar.
Next time I'm going Mopar.
dave6666
Enthusiast
What brand was the leaker? And I'm thinking Mopar is out of the Gen 2 radiator game. Get the Howe from RSI or get the stocker recored.
opnwide
Enthusiast
Don't recall the brand of my "leaker". It wasn't Howe, though. Most likely Afco or BeCool or someone like that.
dave6666
Enthusiast
I've never heard of a Howe leaking.
