Rear hub nut loose.

[Asp Man]

Here's one for all those who do thier own maint.
Check the rear hub nut once in awhile to ensure it's torqued properly. While inspecting my brakes today I notice that I could cause a small clunk when I had the L.rear off the ground and grasped the tire top and bottom and rocked it top to bottom.
Pulled the wheel, put the spare on. Thinking perhaps a ball joint was loose, rocked the wheel with a hand on the knuckle where it meets the upper b/j, no movement, still clunked. Same with the lower.
I noticed then that while holding the half shaft that I could slightly move the hub in relation to the shaft when twisting!
Then I pulled the cotter pin/cage/wave washer off of the center hub nut...it was barely on over hand tight. Torqued to 190lbs., clunk gone.
So before you start ordering ball joints, upper A-arms or hub assemblies, check the nut!

PS A bit of anti-sieze on the lug threads and mating surfaces wont hurt while you're in there.

Been thinking, and it kind of bothers me why this was loose in the first place. Anyone have some thoughts on that?

 

[Viper Wizard]

Been thinking, and it kind of bothers me why this was loose in the first place. Anyone have some thoughts on that?

This is normal for a hub & wheel bearing to loosen up! The rear bearing is more susceptible to this because of the torque along with side loads, *** holes, braking & bearing wear. The fronts WILL loosen up also in time! The ones that don't are the "garage queens"! I would check the torque every 5000 miles.

CAUTION: When re-torquing axle nut, DO NOT USE the drive line to hold hub from turning!! You may break a tooth off the ring gear!! Have someone hold the brakes when re-torquing nut!

 

[dave6666]

CAUTION: When re-torquing axle nut, DO NOT USE the drive line to hold hub from turning!! You may break a tooth off the ring gear!! Have someone hold the brakes when re-torquing nut!

I take it the e-brake IS NOT considered adequate to prevent final drive damage?

 

[Viper Wizard]

I take it the e-brake IS NOT considered adequate to prevent final drive damage?

The e-brake by it self WILL NOT hold it from turning!

 

[1TONY1]

Very good info guys !!!

 

[Asp Man]

Thanks, Chuck! I did check them all, L.Rear was the only one "loose". Of course, this will now be in the regular maint. check with every oil change.

 

[klamathpro]

There must be a difference between the GEN1 and 2. My rear nut has a retainer that locks over it and the kotter pin locks the retainer it in place. It seams impossible for the nut to loosen without shearing the kotter pin off or stripping the retainer cap. And the manual calls the front one a clamp bolt and says it's not serviceable and cannot be removed. Since the inner threads are clamped, how could it possibley loosen?

CAUTION: When re-torquing axle nut, DO NOT USE the drive line to hold hub from turning!! You may break a tooth off the ring gear!! Have someone hold the brakes when re-torquing nut!

..or just put a brick in front of the tire and it won't go anywhere.

 

[1TONY1]

There must be a difference between the GEN1 and 2. My rear nut has a retainer that locks over it and the kotter pin locks the retainer it in place. It seams impossible for the nut to loosen without shearing the kotter pin off or stripping the retainer cap. And the manual calls the front one a clamp bolt and says it's not serviceable and cannot be removed. Since the inner threads are clamped, how could it possibley loosen?



..or just put a brick in front of the tire and it won't go anywhere.

Bearing and hub wear.
I checked a 1996 34,000 mile GTS that I now have on the lift. It definitely has movement on the drivers side. I will report back after I check the torque.
I wonder what my 70k car will have

 

[1TONY1]

Bearing and hub wear.
I checked a 1996 34,000 mile GTS that I now have on the lift. It definitely has movement on the drivers side. I will report back after I check the torque.
I wonder what my 70k car will have

Update,
The 34,000 mile car had less than 100 ft lbs on it....torqued to 190 and the slop was gone. This car had spent quite a bit of time at Road Atlanta.
My car was fine by feel, haven't torqued them yet. When I saw that was good, knowing I have had a clunk when going into reverse I looked under the car and found a bad u-joint on the diff end of the drivers side shaft. Just after the last V10 race in Dec. I replaced the wheel end. My car tends to make powder out of the drivers side u-joint needle bearings.

Thanks for the heads up ASP MAN....good info.