Well, I just saw my buddy with his MP4-12c go to the Ridge and needless to say, I've been hooked again. BUT, has anyone road raced a Roe Racing twin screw Viper before? I just bought a 5 gallon tank for my water/****. Gonna use it while on the track so I can keep my blower cool but I'm unsure how it'll work with partial throttle corners and such. Also, is there any tips you guys can give me for prepping for road racing? I'm doing race brake pads (already have wilwood bbk), new tune for more conservative AFR's, less timing so in case I run out of water/**** or there's slosh in the **** tank, and obviously new brake fluid and keeping the oil topped off. Been about 3 years since my last road course so I want to make sure everything is copacetic. Thank you all in advance!
Road racing in a S/C + **** injected Viper?
- Thread starter g3t_t0rk
- Start date
BlackSnake99
Enthusiast
I've been contemplating the same thing. Not speaking from experience but my guess is you will be ok with the water ****. You will lose some power from heat soak but I don't think it would be harmful. My plan is to start easy and watch the AFR gauge like a hawk. I am having a 3 gallon water **** tank fabricated at the moment for this very reason. As to the part throttle issue, I don't think the charge will really heat up until WOT, and at that point the w/m will take over.
I could be totally wrong, though.
I could be totally wrong, though.
RedEnuf93
Enthusiast
I've done Pocono's several times with Gen 1 and Roe. No ****, no water.
Gave hell to Gallardo's and 430's;-)
I swap brakes before going out (pads, fluids, rotors, tires) and use race gas only. Never had a heat issue with 8lbs of boost.
I have a full prep list if you want.
Gave hell to Gallardo's and 430's;-)
I swap brakes before going out (pads, fluids, rotors, tires) and use race gas only. Never had a heat issue with 8lbs of boost.
I have a full prep list if you want.
My plan was to use the water/**** solely as a cooling agent. No timing change or anything, just to use as a cooler so that in the event I run out, I won't see any issues minus the fact that the blower will run hotter. I just curious to see if anyone has tried this before...
BlackSnake99, yeah, I think I'll have my gopro focused on the afr's for my first outing so that I can watch them and review them later. Thanks for the insight on partial throttle, what you said makes sense.
RedEnuf93, a prep list would be appreciated!
BlackSnake99, yeah, I think I'll have my gopro focused on the afr's for my first outing so that I can watch them and review them later. Thanks for the insight on partial throttle, what you said makes sense.
RedEnuf93, a prep list would be appreciated!
RedEnuf93
Enthusiast
Prep list PM'd!
Have fun at the track!
Have fun at the track!
fuelman
VCA Venom Member
How long will you be on the track? I ran my 01 with cast pistons, Roe on 7lbs, for 15-20 mins at a time, then would come in to cool down for 20-30 mins, then back out and I never had an issue. I wish I had done more rear brake, as the extra weight over the front wheels seem to hurt my stopping.
EllowViper
Enthusiast
Don't sweat any heat soak concerns running hard. A non-issue. The blower will heat to a point mostly from normal engine temps..not boost induced and then that's it...it will not get hotter and hotter and hotter. The harder you run it, the more air flows through it (pretty much ambient temp at the rear inlet to the blower...and even colder with w/m...a good thing) and then in your case, compressed to 5 PSI adding 50 degrees to that temp) so it hits the manifold at under engine temps. What really is HEat Sink is vacuum driving where the slower moving hot discharge air is bypassed right back into the inlet. THAT air tends to be closer to engine temps since it is in the intake "system" longer than air under boost and has an opportunity to absorb manifold/blower heat. This is where an air-to-water intercooler really helps keeping the blower itself cooler. Sort of counter-intuitive. Long way of saying airflow through the blower is a good thing..and you get more of that under boost. Bypassing less airflow back into the blower is not since it does experience heat soak by design. Make sense? That is why W/M injection is such a great thing. You can get outlet temps below engine temps even with a relatively hot blower since COLD air is flowing through so fast. Some have stated that their intake tubes are actually cold after a dyno run due to the cooling effect of W/M. All that coldness goes right into the rear of the blower, is compressed at the speed of sound where it absorbes very little radiant blower heat, and gets dumped into the manifold. Under vacuum...there is no such cooling effect. After sitting in traffic building up a bunch of underhood temps, I can get some audible knock when I immeidately stand on it in those conditions. After a run or two under boost, I can do the same thing with no knock whatsoever. The only dynamic changed is that the blower is cooler from having been run hard and it shows up as a cooler boost charge. This is a very interesting characteristc on our non-intercooled systems. The key is keeping the blower cool and you do that with airflow (boost).
Similar threads
