RT Cat & Corsa Install Recommendation

Clifton Viper

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I've got all my hardware and am ready to replace my stock exhaust. Question: is this a DIY project or is it something I can tackle myself with jack stands and a little bit of elbow grease?

I do not have access to a lift.

Would appreciate any advice and or shops in the Northern Virginia / DC area that would come recommended to make the swap.

Thanks,
Charles.
 

29OUTLAW

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I think you'll find that most folks have issues if they don't weld the joints (use band-clamps only). The issue would involve the exhaust slipping down without your consent. When it does, you'll have a burnt sill.
 

29OUTLAW

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Here's the cold spacing I used. When hot, the tip is right in the middle of the hole.

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wormdoggy

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I've got all my hardware and am ready to replace my stock exhaust. Question: is this a DIY project or is it something I can tackle myself with jack stands and a little bit of elbow grease?

I do not have access to a lift.

Would appreciate any advice and or shops in the Northern Virginia / DC area that would come recommended to make the swap.

Thanks,
Charles.

Certainly you will need some welding done. Also you should have the exhaust end stick out and 1/8 of an inch to 1/4 inch . A lot of guys have been burning their sills cause the exhaust tip is flush to the sill. In order to do this you should slightly bend the holding bracket to 95 degree angle and it will work perfectly.

Patrick
 

Racer Robbie

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All great comments. You want to bring the tip outside the sill. Then it will not burn it. Make sure when you are test fitting the tip to the side sill hole that you bolt up the the side sill as it makes a difference in the alignment. Just holding it in place is not the same as being bolted. If you do not have a welder availble then if you use heavy duty muffler clamps, instead of the band clamps, the tips and mufflers will not turn on you. I would not weld the unit until you are sure you have the tip spacing correct, and then only if you really need to as it makes getting the assembly rather hard to remove from the rear cat once it is welded. We have seen some clamped systems that have moved when installed with headers and this has be caused by the whole exhaust system pivoting where the collector is bolted to the headrer.
 
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Clifton Viper

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Thanks for the feedback.

I think I will clamp them for starters and then take them to a shop to weld them once I am happy with the sound and fit.

Appreciate it.
Charles
 
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Clifton Viper

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Also you should have the exhaust end stick out and 1/8 of an inch to 1/4 inch . A lot of guys have been burning their sills cause the exhaust tip is flush to the sill. In order to do this you should slightly bend the holding bracket to 95 degree angle and it will work perfectly.

Patrick

[/QUOTE]


Sorry to resurrect this old thread but I need some advice. The tip of the driver's side is perfect with 1/4" overhang but the passenger side is flush. What is the best way to bend the bracket without damaging anything else?

I was also thinking of adding a shim behind the rubber hanger instead of bending the bracket (that way I don't have to remove everything... again).

Advice?????

BTW... SRT is loud and mean sounding. Not for everyone but I love it.
 
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