Shifter broke off!!!

MoparMan

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So, I'm making my second pass of the night with the Viper and the shifter shaft comes off in my hand on the shift from 2nd to 3rd. I ended up coasting down the rest of the track half laughing and half pissed with the shifter in my hand no longer connected to the car! Turns out the car had a drop piece in place of the rubber isolator that flat out broke from metal fatigue.

The question (now that I'm using a 9/16" deep socket for a shifter) is should I stay stock or go with an aftermarket shifter. What are the trade offs between a B&M and the Mopar/Hurst? I know you can't run the factory knob with the Hurst and you can with the B&M. Other than that is there much difference? Is there any cutting or drilling required to install either one?
 

Warfang

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I started a thread last week... same topic, but my shaft is still intact. Final verdict: The Wizard recommends the Hurst, so that's what I'm getting! :2tu:
 

Casey 111

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I understand power shifting is fun but common now.... :D

Like Warfang said though, what better time to upgrade?
 

Andrew/USPWR

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If you do change it out, I had a B&M short throw shifter installed by Viper Speed and whenever I shifted into reverse it would hit the center consul ashtray box. It was know big deal at first, but after I had the Trans and Motors mounts replaced the elbow of this shifter wouldn't allow me to shift into reverse at all. I pulled the center consul out and tried to hammer some room out of the ash tray. It worked but now it would tap loudly against the box whenever reversing. Big pain in the a$$.

Finally Tom Session got in there and shaved the edge off of the shifters elbow and made it right. So if you go to aftermarket make sure your installer or yourself watches out for this problem.
And stop slammin those gears :)
 
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SUN RA KAT

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Same thing happened to me a while ago when parking. It was covered under the new car warranty.
 

DEADEYE

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I just purchased the SVS medium length shifter. I havn't installed it yet but it looks like a quality piece. I've heard very good things about it. :2tu:
 
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MoparMan

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I'm gonna stop by and see the Viper tech this morning. He thought it would be covered under my extended warranty, but I'm thinking along Warfang's lines - why not upgrade while it's jacked up anyway? Given Andrew's comments about the B&M I'm leaning towards the Hurst (especially if Tator recommends it) but I'll see what the warranty will do for my stock setup first and if needed I'll be PMing 99 R/T 10 (thanks for the offer, BTW).

The only thing holding me back about the Hurst is the shift knob - I don't care for the shiny slick plastic look (I've already got that in my SRT-4 and don't like it that much) plus you can only get the Fangs logo on the knob.
 

Warfang

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I'm gonna stop by and see the Viper tech this morning. He thought it would be covered under my extended warranty, but I'm thinking along Warfang's lines - why not upgrade while it's jacked up anyway? Given Andrew's comments about the B&M I'm leaning towards the Hurst (especially if Tator recommends it) but I'll see what the warranty will do for my stock setup first and if needed I'll be PMing 99 R/T 10 (thanks for the offer, BTW).

The only thing holding me back about the Hurst is the shift knob - I don't care for the shiny slick plastic look (I've already got that in my SRT-4 and don't like it that much) plus you can only get the Fangs logo on the knob.
I'm too lazy to look it up, but I thought I read on another thread here that the hurst actually DOES fit the other shift knobs.

BTW- does anyone have pics of a hurst installed in a gts?
 

Bobpantax

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Re: SVS Shifter

I replaced the stock shifter( It broke like yours did. A visual inspection showed it to be somewhat flimsy)with an SVS shifter three years ago. At that time it was the eighth iteration of the shifter. It came with two different length shafts so that you can use the length that suits you. It works very well. One suggestion. Keep the rubber grommet and the damper from the OEM shifter and combine them with the SVS shifter. Without them, there will be more noise and vibration. Also, I use an MGW shifter knob.
 
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MoparMan

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Re: SVS Shifter

No - the damper screws in between the shifter shaft/knob assembly and the shift mechanism. Turns out that each end is a different thread pitch.

BTW: I've since figured out that the piece that broke on broke on my car is the one West Coast Viper is selling for $49 - so for those of you that have this mod, beware.

For right now, the Viper tech is going to put it back to stock since it's just the rubber isolator that needs to be replaced. That'll give me some time to check out shifters and see which one I really want in the car.
 

carguy07

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Re: SVS Shifter

I guess that's my point. It's the isolator that fails, so why buy a better shifer and put that thing back on?

I bought one of these to replace it and I love it.

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carguy07

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Re: SVS Shifter

Has anyone figured out an easy way to put a bushing or something on the shaft to make it seal with the rubber boot like the stock one does?
 

Jay Herbert

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Re: SVS Shifter

"Keep the rubber grommet and the damper from the OEM shifter" How did you do this? Cut up the stock shaft?

The damper is what broke on my stock shifter.... you could turn the shift knob and handle round and round.....

I had a three solid extention's made after buying one that was just plain too short, the knob was just about parallel with the console. I tried them all until I found the one I liked.... wish I had measured it so I could have more made :(
 

carguy07

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Re: SVS Shifter

I went with the one that is 3/4" shorter than stock and it suits me well. Personally, I would not want one that is more than 1" shorter. I must have ham hands. I know a lot of guys want them shorter than that.
 
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MoparMan

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Re: SVS Shifter

carguy07 - I had the 1" drop from West Coast Viper and it broke where the fine pitch thread meets the hex portion of the part.

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carguy07

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Re: SVS Shifter

Wow! I almost bought that one instead. Either you got a defective one or you hit those gears real hard! I can't imagine the one I got from Rich breaking under normal usage. It's pretty heavy duty.
 

Bobpantax

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Re: SVS Shifter

I have not had any problem with the SVSI shifter since installation - even with the damper inserted. The rubber grommet I referred to is more accurately referred to as the boot. I did not find any way to seal it, but its use still reduced the amount of noise coming up through that area. As most of us know, the stock Gen II shifter leaves alot to be desired. If you want smooth, effortless, worry free shifting, upgrade the stock shift mechanism. Replacing the knob and shortening the shaft will give you some releif but will not completely eliminate the probems.
 

JUCD VPR

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Re: SVS Shifter

I say get a shorter shifter rod and just buy a MGW shifter knob, less expensive and if you already know how to shift well thewn your all set. Thats what i did and i love it. PLUS it was a total of 80 bucks instead of 200 + install.
 
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MoparMan

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Re: SVS Shifter

I'm still leaning towards the Hurst/Mopar set up. I don't want to mess around with the stock mechanism and a shorter shifter rod anymore. I think untimitely the stock mechanism needs to be replaced. For now, going stock will be covered under my warranty that'll give me chance to try out the B&M and Hurst that others in the region have and go from there.
 

Cal Cobra

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Re: SVS Shifter

JUCD VPR I installed the MGW First Strike shifter and really like it. I also just changed the tranny fluid to Redline Synthetic ATF fluid, and it seems to shift a lot nicer IMO (the old fluid had that nice burnt fluid smell :)

I assume you also bought the MGW First Strike, do you think the shofter shifter rod makes a big difference, or is just the MGW shifter enough? I'd really like to see what it feels like w/the shorter rod.

Cal
 
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