Still throwing Codes!

[Lee00blacksilverGTS]

The dealer would throw me out of his shop once he sees all my mods!

Not this dealer...

Tator's Dodge

 

[Sean Roe]

Sean, thanks for the info!
Now, for us laymen...basically:

My car is running at conditions outside of the adaptive values of the PCM. These adaptive values need to be changed to accomodate my mods. I think you are saying my adaptive values either have not been changed or have been changed to a value that is still not in the range of where the car wants to operate at. So if the PCM has me running rich it will reduce the injector pulse to try to get the proper voltage (and lean things out), but if it has reduced the injector pulse as much as it can and the correct voltage is still not seen, it will not reduce the pulse anymore..it will simply throw the code, having bottomed out on injector pulse reduction.

I think you are also saying that just b/c I clear the code it does not mean I have brought the injector pulse back to the correct operating range b/c I have not zeroed it out...meaning it remembers my lean condition and will stay there. But does this condition put the car in limp mode? Does the car go into limp mode here or simply the leanest/lowest injector pulse setting w/in its range?

Does the car go into limp mode when the light comes on? Or does it remember the last limp mode setting and stay there w/ no light until the 3rd start or so and until we disconnect the battery?

Yep, sounds like you have it now
As far as codes and what sets a PCM into limp or safe mode, it's not always an easy answer. Generally speaking, the newer the car, the tighter the parameters that cause lights and put it in limp mode. The safe bet is to say that any time the light is on, the car may have reduced power. It's always best to cure the cause and not just figure it's ok.

Dan is correct. It is best to turn off the WOT timer. But since you already have the VEC3 and it is wired into the upstream sensors, it's quite functional to clamp the voltage. I've logged and tested extensively to ensure what voltage needs to be fed to the PCM during initial WOT so it does not skew the injector pulse. You should see how much it can change it if it's not clamped. You can get a major swing in AF during that first second and a half.

On the cats, let Chuck check them out when you're there having the adaptives checked and adjusted. Let's not guess or draw too many conclusions from one dyno run that had an error.

Finally, in regard to tuning, I must say that we have a process we use here that works very well. I consider there to be three phases of tuning.
1. We idle tune, getting the adaptives it idle correct (easy).
2. We full throttle tune (a little more involved, but still fairly easy).
3. We drive tune, checking and tuning adaptives at cruise first, then the final and toughest "transitional" tuning. I usually do a little of this on the dyno after full throttle tuning and then verify it with road feel, to make sure the engine runs smooth.
So, basically, you start with the bottom, tune the top and then tweak the middle once the two ends are done. Works like a champ.

Regards,
Sean

 

[black mamba1]

Thanks to both Sean and Dan! I totally understand it now.

You guys are great instructors and first class businessmen!