Sub-Woofer Questions

JKVIPER

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I have a blown sub woofer in my 06. I am either going to take it back to the dealer under warranty or replace with upgraded subwoofers.

My question is, are both speakers in the center consol subwoofers or is one an active subwoofer and the other passive?

Also, what JL Audio Subwoofer would be the right one to purchase?

Thanks for your help!
 

mopard150

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I would like to replace the speakers in My Gen2. I was curious if anyone had a good ideas for a system replacement. I do not know the first thing about good speakers compainies or models. To me a speaker is a speaker.
 

justin5809

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For the sub it really depends on what you looking for. For good sound quality (SQ) without getting an overbearing woofer the W3v3 is a good choice. If your looking for good sound and for it to get loud the 6v2 would be a better choice. But its a large sub so it would require a bigger enclosure to allow clearance for the basket and magnet.

There are a lot of companies out there that make good equip. that just dont carry the same marketing weight as JL Audio. Look at Image Dynamics USA their IDQ has won many SQ comps becuase of its fast response time and clear sound production.
 

08viperviolet

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the JL 6w0 is a drop in with out alot of trouble. I would close the port in the box it will sound better but dose line up with the factory holes. I have pics of mine in the meida gallery. PM me if you need more help
 

Darbgnik

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What's needed to improve the sound quality: close off the port, fiber fill the box, dynamat??? As I am starting to tackle this same project, recommendations are appreciated...

The fiber fill has one known name as dacron, looks like cotton balls. It effectively makes the volume of the box seem larger.:cool: Box port needs to be sealed with something as well though. Possibly dynamat?:dunno:
 

HI-NOS-Viper

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The fiber fill has one known name as dacron, looks like cotton balls. It effectively makes the volume of the box seem larger.:cool: Box port needs to be sealed with something as well though. Possibly dynamat?:dunno:
Just did this yesterday with the Kicker CTV65 6.5". The job took about 2 hours because of having to remove the seats and the bars. There was something that came with the speaker that I used to seal it. The speaker sounds good and now I can now listen to my system at high volume.

Make sure and fill the box completely with the fiber fill. You want to completely seal the box so make sure the port is sealed. Trust me it sounds bad if it is not sealed.

Thank you 08viperviolet your instructions were very good and dead on :2tu:
 

HI-NOS-Viper

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What's needed to improve the sound quality: close off the port, fiber fill the box, dynamat??? As I am starting to tackle this same project, recommendations are appreciated...
That is correct. When we had the speaker box out of the car with the speaker in the box we tried the music with different configurations. The best sound was it completely filled with the fiber fill and port completely sealed. Make sure that the speaker is sealed to the box as well. I put new holes in the box as there was only 4 I think with the stock speaker. Use all the holes that come with the speaker. I am very happy with the upgrade :2tu:
 

OppositeLock

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For those who have sealed off the port, what did you use and did you remove in the internal ducting of the port also? Great recommendations on the fiber fill. I plan on using approx 1.5lb per each cubic foot of internal volume to fill the enclosure; have you found this is an effective ratio? My speakers arrive later this week and I am looking to the audio sound improvements from this winter project!
 

nishboo

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I am looking to find out how much fiberfill i will need, and also, what to use to close off the port. Waiting on the subwoofer gurus to chime in! :)
 

HI-NOS-Viper

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I am looking to find out how much fiberfill i will need, and also, what to use to close off the port. Waiting on the subwoofer gurus to chime in! :)
There was a fabric piece that came with the sub that I used to to seal off the port. I cut it down to size and it sealed it perfectly. I used as much fiber fill that I could to fill the box. I dont know the exact amount but use as much as you can. What sub are you getting?
 

HI-NOS-Viper

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Honestly the stock center box is not that great and even if you could fit a bitter size speaker there, there is not enough box size to be able to make it sound good. The depth is barely enough to fit the speaker but not optimal for good sound. If you can get an aftermarket box to fit and look good, that would be the route to go.
 

Paul Hawker

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There is a possibility that the "dummy" speaker is designed to be a passive radiator, and enhance the bass boost of the stock speaker. If this is the case, it is a pretty state of the art woofer section. Do not believe it functions as a subwoofer, but more of a mid range woofer for music, as opposed to the thump of a real sub for home movies.
 

Dustman

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Just did this yesterday with the Kicker CTV65 6.5". The job took about 2 hours because of having to remove the seats and the bars. There was something that came with the speaker that I used to seal it. The speaker sounds good and now I can now listen to my system at high volume.

Make sure and fill the box completely with the fiber fill. You want to completely seal the box so make sure the port is sealed. Trust me it sounds bad if it is not sealed.

Thank you 08viperviolet your instructions were very good and dead on :2tu:

May I ask where you purchased your new Kicker 6.5" ?

My sub busted some time and and I want to replace it as well before cruising time starts again.

Also, where did you find "08Viperviolets" Installation Instructions ?!

THANKS !! :2tu:
 

nishboo

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so you put that big round disc thing over the port to seal it?
 

ACRBruce

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I am trying to remove the stock sub but am having a hard time getting it out of the sub box. So far I have the seats all the way forward to leave enough room to get the plastic rear panel forward a few inches to give me access to the sub box. After removing the 4 screws that attach the sub to the sub box, I can rotate the sub in its position but can't pull it out as something seems to be holding it in place. Without removing the seats and the plastic panel, and then take the box out of the car to examine it, can someone please tell me what could be holding the sub in place? I'm a roll bar in place so I can't move the plastic panel toward the back of the car either. I'm putting a Kicker 6.5" sub btw.
Thanks in advance for whatever assistance you guys/gals can offer.
 

OppositeLock

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After removing the 4 screws that attach the sub to the sub box, I can rotate the sub in its position but can't pull it out as something seems to be holding it in place. Without removing the seats and the plastic panel, and then take the box out of the car to examine it, can someone please tell me what could be holding the sub in place?
Sorry, you have to remove the entire enclosure to get the sub out. Besides the four screws on the front of the sub there is a single bolt in the back of the enclosure threaded directly into the sub’s magnet (it's under the foam).
 

ACRBruce

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Sorry, you have to remove the entire enclosure to get the sub out. Besides the four screws on the front of the sub there is a single bolt in the back of the enclosure threaded directly into the sub’s magnet (it's under the foam).

Ahhhh, exactly what I was afraid of, thanks for the tip... Back to the car I go......
 

viperfuntime

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The factory box *****. If you want to improve bass the fact of the matter is you are not going to get what you want from just replacing the subwoofer with a better version and keeping it in this box.

I have now tried three subs in this box and the bottom line is the end result is like putting lipstick on a pig. I now have 3 subwoofers if anybody wants them. (1) Kicker and (2) JL's.

I just decided for my own good that removing the stock box entirely for minor weight savings and proceeding forward with an aftermarket active subwoofer enclosure is the best option. The fact of the matter is this car is a coupe with very little space between the front passenger compartment and the rear trunk. The sound (especially low sounds) traveling an extra 3 feet is not a concern and shouldn't be. Everybody wants to keep the stock look, including me, but in the end the stock sub location is awful for sound.

Take it for what its worth....I have spent considerable time with subs in this car and in the end the sound just stinks with that box whether you keep it ported, seal the port, put in fiber fill, or no fiberfill, or try an array of quality aftermarket subs. If I can save you some leg work I would spend the time focusing on putting it in rear hatch area instead because the options are much greater and sound will be much better.

The convertible is another story in itself. The trunk is not as condusive to the recommendation I have. In that circumstance I would say either chopping up the rear panel to allow for a deeper sub is an option or putting a sub in the passenger footwell.
 

HI-NOS-Viper

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May I ask where you purchased your new Kicker 6.5" ?

My sub busted some time and and I want to replace it as well before cruising time starts again.

Also, where did you find "08Viperviolets" Installation Instructions ?!

THANKS !! :2tu:
sorry I have been away from this thread for a while. If you still need to know where to get it I can send you the link. I just googled it and found the cheapest one and was happy with it.
 

HI-NOS-Viper

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so you put that big round disc thing over the port to seal it?
Yeah and it worked out very good. I am not sure if that piece was meant for it or not but it sure did work. I think it was meant to seal a port but am not entirely sure.
 

HI-NOS-Viper

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If you want better sound from the sub the best route that I have seen as of yet is Deadman's custom box. From his description it sounds very good. http://forums.viperclub.org/srt10-srt10-coupe-discussions/624763-subwoofer-fits-sounds-finally.html

You are correct in it doesnt matter really what sub you get the box is not meant for good sound. There just is not enough space in the box, not enough air means not enough sound. Deadman posted the dimensions for his box so that looks like a good route to go. Oh and it looks factory.
The factory box *****. If you want to improve bass the fact of the matter is you are not going to get what you want from just replacing the subwoofer with a better version and keeping it in this box.

I have now tried three subs in this box and the bottom line is the end result is like putting lipstick on a pig. I now have 3 subwoofers if anybody wants them. (1) Kicker and (2) JL's.

I just decided for my own good that removing the stock box entirely for minor weight savings and proceeding forward with an aftermarket active subwoofer enclosure is the best option. The fact of the matter is this car is a coupe with very little space between the front passenger compartment and the rear trunk. The sound (especially low sounds) traveling an extra 3 feet is not a concern and shouldn't be. Everybody wants to keep the stock look, including me, but in the end the stock sub location is awful for sound.

Take it for what its worth....I have spent considerable time with subs in this car and in the end the sound just stinks with that box whether you keep it ported, seal the port, put in fiber fill, or no fiberfill, or try an array of quality aftermarket subs. If I can save you some leg work I would spend the time focusing on putting it in rear hatch area instead because the options are much greater and sound will be much better.

The convertible is another story in itself. The trunk is not as condusive to the recommendation I have. In that circumstance I would say either chopping up the rear panel to allow for a deeper sub is an option or putting a sub in the passenger footwell.
 
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