THE CRYING GAME

gthomas

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No flame, just a few observations.......
Turbo's also rely on RPM's, just as s/c's. However, instead of a belt, it gets it from the exhaust. The turbo's I've had(non-vipers), on dynos, have spiked up quicker, but it maintained power over a good curve. It doesn't spike up quick, then drop way down. It produced power over a broad curve. I also prefer turbo's over s/c's.
Before I continue, I must point out your point(ronviper) from the above link, of your point about quickest and fastest. I must also make the same analogy about streetability vs. drivability.
Yes, the narrowed 9" with massive meats and skinnies up front, with an auto race prepped trans will be streetable, but will lose drivability.
But this brings another point about racing in general. Yours is the 1/4 mile(drag racing). Red5's is in a parking lot. Chucks is on road courses. So.....
The auto trans will be quicker for all out drag racing, not the others. Also, for the trans to be quicker, it has to be converted to a manual valve body, and a high rpm stall converter. But, a manual will be quicker. Well, a race built manual. As in a Lenco 4-speed. You get the advantage of slow speed control the manual 1st gear gives, and the benefits of the 'auto' for the rest. The auto trans will not allow good power control from speed. The Lenco is specifically made for this purpose, the auto trans is not, it has to be converted.
Also, the trans brake, used one once on a GN with race prepped stock trans. Will never use it again. I am not sure of what it 'does'(I know, lock the trans), but I have always preferred line-locks so I could put a 'load' on the car, and not 'jolt' it when released, as all out dumping the clutch. Also, all being equal, the GN was faster, um quicker, with the Lenco, vs. aforementioned auto trans with a Hurst lightning rod shifter.(The trans was the only difference)
There are also tuners providing the auto trans converion, including he whom shall remain nameless ;) , but then again we bring up the 'race' car, vs. 'raceable' car.
Yes, dropping a 9" Ford rear can be good. However, specialty manufacturers provide GM rears, Mopar rears, etc.. Only in my fors did I use a 9". In my GM's(non vette), I used 12-bolts. Worked just as good. And for the Viper, they already produce parts for 1200hp rears. Also, some companies do intall straight axles in Vipers. One doesn't have to waste the money on Ford parts to go faster, or handle the power.
For suspension, there is no way I would EVER intall 90/10 drag shocks again. But also, for your set-up, the 4-link would be better on the track(straight).
Yes, motors work on the same principles, but there is a difference once the air gets into the intake. You have differences of intakes(position, size, etc., of throttle bodies/and design of the manifold), a difference of valves(2/cylinder,4/cylider)and what happens. Also in the exhaust. A DOHC engine will spin fater than a pushrod engine, put will produce less torque. But then again, who needs torque when you can spin a few thousand extra rpm's.
Dyno's provide a baseline of power generation. Main factors include the driver, conditions, etc.. Also, the dyno's provide the amount of power the car is currently capable of making, not the power the engine is capable of making.
Now we get to the is Moundir's car raceable? YES. Is it drivable? YES. The car with your mods would be a race car, and only streetable. The GN was the only car I modded to be what you describe(less Ford parts), and I would never do it again. It was great for a good drag, but no other practicality(other than getting to, and parking at a hangout).
Now, who can e-mail me the vid of the 'race'? :D
 

IEATVETS

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I cannot believe you guys are still arguing about this. Lay it to rest. Now you all really do sound like a bunch of women! Sorry, but my god, who really gives a crap.
 

TurboRob

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Living proof dyno's don't mean everything:

720rwhp QMP Single Turbo LS1 Formula = a real bad day for a 921rwhp DLM SC'd Viper

Still crying...
 
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