The other 'fusable link' on these cars - Broke mine!

Joseph Dell

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I never thought that the drive shaft would be the fuse-able link on the car. But on mine it was!

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I had some of the most supportive help at the drag strip for the day. Long before I broke these guys were helping me with everything. It was a day to learn and I learned the limits of the stock drive shaft... the ONLY remaining piece of anything stock from the block back to the wheels.

To the guys who helped and supported me: Huge thank you for your time and your support. You know who you are.

I'm gonna get that drive shaft upgraded and I'll be back with a vengeance!

Joseph
 

ILLSMOQ

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:headbang: niiiiiice

haha! I've broken a lot of parts drag racing but never been lucky enough for it to have only been a drive shaft!

When did it snap? launch or shifting?
 

ILLSMOQ

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I don't drive my snake particularly hard, but it is a 97... would it be a good idea to upgrade the shaft anyways?

You more likely to snap something inside the transmission before the drive shaft givees up.....but drive shafts are not real expencive unless you go carbon.

What's the plan here Joseph?
 

Camfab

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I don't drive my snake particularly hard, but it is a 97... would it be a good idea to upgrade the shaft anyways?

You should be just fine, I'm guessing Joesph's driveshaft has seen hundreds of violent launches.

My question is....does your car have a driveshaft safety loop? That must have been one nasty sound!
 

plumcrazy

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JD's car also has close to 1600 RWHP. so him breaking that shaft doesnt realy apply to most of us...:)
 
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Joseph Dell

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You should be just fine, I'm guessing Joesph's driveshaft has seen hundreds of violent launches.

My question is....does your car have a driveshaft safety loop? That must have been one nasty sound!

In the past I'd always slipped the clutch so the drive shaft was never really abused. i've been launching harder these days.

yes, there was a driveshaft safety loop. thank goodness. but the driveshaft broke behind where the safety loop was so that if the shaft had spun around a lot, there would have been some damage. thank goodness it didn't.

the plan: replace it with something stronger like steel.

JD
 

klamathpro

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Time to go Carbon Fiber, shouldn't be too expensive since it's so short. Back when I had my 500HP TT Stealth I upgraded the stock 3 piece (yes, 3 piece) to a one piece CF. It was 72 inches long and it had to be 5 inches in diameter just to stay balanced. Vipers fortunately have really short driveshafts.
 

Simms

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WOW, JD did it break right at the weld or tube? I can't really tell from the pics.

Congrats:D , this is only the second or third driveshaft failure I have seen! Sounds like you are getting out and laying down the power.:drive:
 
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Joseph Dell

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WOW, JD did it break right at the weld or tube? I can't really tell from the pics.

Congrats:D , this is only the second or third driveshaft failure I have seen! Sounds like you are getting out and laying down the power.:drive:

It broke at the weld. Strangely, welding 101 dictates that a good weld is stronger than the base material that is being welded.

There is a race shop up the street that can turn me around a steel one in a day. But I'm open to the carbon fiber idea. any idea on the cost as well as where i could procure one from? Trying to avoid calling Mark Williams...

It was quite a hoot. I think it was all caught on tape too!

JD
 

00SVTdubs

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I heard there was a vid as well! Congrats on the run though, I heard you broke right after the 60' mark and coasted to a 9.99@12mph. awesome run! lol

you will be back bigger and stronger for sure!

ps, Ill see ya tomorrow. Ill call you around dinner time! Ill be in Roswell. Later
 

2002_Viper_GTS_ACR

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"It broke at the weld. Strangely, welding 101 dictates that a good weld is stronger than the base material that is being welded."

FYI, by the photos it didnt break at the weld, it broke at the point the weld held the metal. So the weld itself held just fine, the section it was grabbing onto is what looks to have finaly given. If you consider that the welding actually will melt some of the tube as the two liquid metals interjoin, you can imagine that at some spots its actually going to be a little thinner.

From the photos (and they arent great for surmising this conclusion, so forgive if I am wrong) it really seems like it broke below the bead, almost at the bead line from pipe to the weld. Show me where weld is on both pieces, and then I will agree that it broke "in the weld"

Jon
 
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