Tilton Carbon Clutch

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Hey Daniel and Kai,

How has your hydraulic throw out / slave combo held up with the Tilton? When you state about 50% greater pedal effort, I don't worry about my left leg, but I do worry about the slave. I've had several slaves fail with stock or slightly above stock pedal pressure. Do you do anything to help this weak link perform better? Maybe this isn't an issue with the Tilton, but I'd like your input.

I've tried numerous clutch / flywheel combos and experienced first hand the driveability difficulty with another brand of twin disk clutch, light flywheel and a super charger. It was brutal.

On the Spec stage 3+, I am currently running it along with a stock flywheel. No street "launch" issues. It holds the power very well but it seems to expand a bit and get "sticky" when warm which can create difficult shifting. It also chatters more than I'd like at times but pedal pressure is about equal to stock.

Not sure where to go next.

Dan:drive:

Hi Dan,

The Tilton uses a Tilton Slave, which is about a 1000% improvement over stock, the quality is there on the Tilton... not the OEM by a long shot. No issues with the Tilton HRB's to date, nor have I ever heard of a failure in just about any application. They are designed for a spring that is about 50% stiffer than we are using, so it is actually way underworked.

I will be honest and say Kai has had some difficulty with his Tilton, but it will be sorted out. He has worn out a great deal of the clutch in a hurry, but it is suspected this is due to a combination of a bad install originally, causing it to be physically damaged on day 1, (ate about 65% of the wear interval there) then when it was repaired/reinstalled, a faulty install again in a different manner lead to its failure due to wear from constant slight slippage in about 1500 miles. This was accellerated by the lightweight flywheel on the street, a LONG traffic jam, and a number of other issues small install issues. The clutch pack is far from dead- it still has 2/3+ of its service life left, but it will require a heavyweight flywheel for street use, as well as making certain it is put in correctly on the next go around. The other 2 in-service Tiltons I have installed are not having these issues, and the heavyweight version is showing extreme promise in the street-friendly application... feels like a stock clutch with a short/hard pedal... Smooth, no chatter, grabs like the dickens if you want it to, and modulates like you wouldnt believe for a 1500 lb/ft clutch. Unfortunately the Heavyweight Flywheels are on LONG lead times right now, but they will be a stocked item for next season- but PLEASE pre-order if you want one, as I only plan to stock 1 of each model year due to costs, and it would take 8 months to re-make another. I can easily add one in the begining though.

As far as your issue, yes, overheating will warp any clutch other than Carbon/Carbon Tiltons, resulting in difficulty disengauging/shifting. The entire Tilton drive plate system is carbon, which cannot warp. The other Carbon clutches on the market have carbon "pucks" secured to steel plates, which are NOT immune to warping... they are really only half the true benefit, just the engaugement properties.
 
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Steppenwolf

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Hey Daniel and Kai,

How has your hydraulic throw out / slave combo held up with the Tilton? When you state about 50% greater pedal effort, I don't worry about my left leg, but I do worry about the slave. I've had several slaves fail with stock or slightly above stock pedal pressure. Do you do anything to help this weak link perform better? Maybe this isn't an issue with the Tilton, but I'd like your input.

I've tried numerous clutch / flywheel combos and experienced first hand the driveability difficulty with another brand of twin disk clutch, light flywheel and a super charger. It was brutal.

On the Spec stage 3+, I am currently running it along with a stock flywheel. No street "launch" issues. It holds the power very well but it seems to expand a bit and get "sticky" when warm which can create difficult shifting. It also chatters more than I'd like at times but pedal pressure is about equal to stock.

Not sure where to go next.

Dan:drive:

Dan,
send me your opinion about Spec 3+ ( pro/con) because i'm very interessed to change stock clutch with this kit.
Also I take in consideration a lighweight flywheel.
Thank you

luigi
 

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Luigi,

My opinion and input on the "Spec" are contained in my previous post. It's been very hard finding a clutch that will hold big power and work smoothly. The stock clutch and pp seems to be best overall, but it won't hold big power for long.

I'm hoping the new 2008 twin disc stock clutch is better than the previous stock clutch and costs less than the Tilton. We'll see.

The Tilton sounds really good, it's just a whole lotta dough!

Dan
 

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Luigi,

My opinion and input on the "Spec" are contained in my previous post. It's been very hard finding a clutch that will hold big power and work smoothly. The stock clutch and pp seems to be best overall, but it won't hold big power for long.

I'm hoping the new 2008 twin disc stock clutch is better than the previous stock clutch and costs less than the Tilton. We'll see.

The Tilton sounds really good, it's just a whole lotta dough!

Dan

I dont think the 08 clutch is going to have a prayer holding up in your car. While it is a twin disc, its intention was to cut pedal pressure and rotational inertia of the discs. It is still an organic clutch- bad for high HP, it is a 10" instead of a 12", while also having less spring pressure, so its holding power wont be all that much higher.

While I certainly wont deny the Tilton's cost, it is literally the last clutch you ever have to buy... and is worth taking car to car. In a properly working setup that isnt beaten to death, a clutch pack should have a 100,000+ mile lifespan, and is a generic part which can be caried cross-generation. Even if the Gen-4 (like 2010+) has a different flywheel (doubtful) you can adapt the Tilton over to the new flywheel type, if it even changes... or even take it back to a Gen-1 or 2 car with the 152 tooth, etc. The gen-3.5 shares our flywheel size (144 tooth), so it should be a direct bolt in from your car to a 2008-2009 car, short of the slave or bearing assembly if the trans dimensions are different.
 
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