Track Day

[Iceman]

I have just signed up for my second track day at the Homestead track in South Florida. The first time I had two issues?

1. My skills
2. The brakes

Basically at the end of the straightaway (140 mph) once the brakes got hot the brake pedal just did not seem to grab as well. I was thinking of changing the brake fluid to Motul-600 and possibly getting some race pads that could handle the heat better.

Any other things you guys can think of?

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

Absolutely upgrade fluid and probably pads depending on your skills.

Flush the fluid the day before the event and get some duct work to the brakes.

What club is running at Moroso? www.SAFEMotorsports.com will be at Homestead tomorrow, Saturday 9/24. There will be around 10 Vipers in attendance. Come down and meet us.

 

[Iceman]

Performance Drivers Club (NASA). But it will be at Homestead also not Moroso. Unfortunatelly I'll be out of town tomorrow. Hope to see you guys next month.

http://www.drivenasafl.com

Any recommendations on the pads? Should I also change the back ones?

 

[NDW]

I take it you have stock pads and rotors. Two choices come to mind; either Brakeman 3's front and rear, or a little more aggressive pad such as Performance Friction 01's front and rear. You should also consider getting the stainless steel brake lines to keep the rubber factory lines from "bubbling" under the heat and pressure.

I have had my brake pedal go to the floor when I first started at the track with my stock pedals due to stock lines/fluid/pads. It is not fun. I bought the Stop Tech 4 wheel system the next week. I use the PFC 01's front and rear and have total confidence in my braking now with the new brakes and pads.

Good luck and have fun!

 

[Iceman]

Yep, all stock.

Do you think the PFC 01 would work with the stock rotors?

Also, what site did you buy them from?

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

MacedoMotorsports.com can get you PFC pads.

 

[Iceman]

Ok, I found the pads ($209) but should I buy them for both the front and the back or just the front.

Also, does anybody know how much brake fluid I need to completely flush the sytem and fill it with new fluid? I would like to upgrade to the Motul 600.

 

[SneakyPete]

are going to put your stock pads back on for street use or keep the race pads on all the time?

 

[Iceman]

I don't know. From what I have heard the race pads only grip once they heat up past 600%. But nevertheless I will try them on the treet and see what happens.

 

[SneakyPete]

I don't know. From what I have heard the race pads only grip once they heat up past 600%. But nevertheless I will try them on the treet and see what happens.

Thats what I was getting at, and they will eat up rotors like crazy also, it you put alot of miles on car. normal track event is about 80 miles or so. But if you leave them on and put a few thousand miles on car, rotor will wear.

The Idea situation, and what I am working on. Get a trailer, put race pads on day before race, get an extra set of rims with toyo or hoosiers on them, put them on and trailer to track.

once you get better pads, then it will be the greasy stock pilots once the side wall get hot. Then it will be the shocks/springs and front bushings.

Best bang for the buck for the weekend warrior, brake pad upgrade and track tires. Someone with same exact setup as you, with better tires, will disappear right in front of you, as they can hold more speed in the corners.

Once my leg completely heals I will be back out there with you guys.

good luck.

 

[Iceman]

I agree with you that track tires would be great, but you are raising the cost of this adventure from a couple of hundred to thousands, not counting the need for a trailer.

Maybe I'll just use the new pads at the track then.

P.S.: Any idea how much break fluid I need to completely flush the system?

 

[ViperRay]

When you change pad material, assuming you keep the same rotors, you need to scuff the rotors to remove the old pad material (3M pad on drill) and then bed in the new pads. There is no easier way around this other than buying a second set of rotors for the track pads and the original rotors for street pads.

I can't speak to the PFC pad but some track pads, designed for more durability, have little stopping power when cold. Be VERY careful if you use them on the street.

I use Brakeman 3's all around. They are adequate on the street although I don't drive my GTS on the street any longer. Not sure how the PFC 01 is for the street.

If you anticipate tracking the car a bit, just buy a case of Motul and forget about it.
I would also be sure to bleed the brakes after EVERY track day. Get speedbleeders and make your life easy (www.speedbleeder.com).

If you go to stickier tires, you will need brake cooling ducts for sure (even with Pilots I needed them). I also put in a brake fluid recirculating valve. There are lots of things you can do depending upon many factors.

 

[jrkermode]

I've tried Stock, PFC 01's, Porterfield R4's and BM3's.

In terms of noise and dust, the stock pads actually work pretty good for street and track. Unfortunately, none of the combinations last very long when driven ******* the track (stock brakes and tires). Figure about 2 hours of track time for a set of pads.

The front and rear pads wear at about the same rate. Meaning, when the fronts are 50% worn, the rears are 50% worn. So, you'll need front and rear pads when you upgrade.

Stay away from sticky tires. Fitting them will make everything else on your car inadequate (brakes, shocks, springs, bushings....) Sticky tires are the beginning of a financial death spiral.

 

[SneakyPete]

Stay away from sticky tires. Fitting them will make everything else on your car inadequate (brakes, shocks, springs, bushings....) Sticky tires are the beginning of a financial death spiral.

 

[Iceman]

For the PFC 01's do you suggest replacing both the front and back pads? I was thinking it would be enough just to get the fronts.

 

[Iceman]

Does anybody else use these speedbleeders. If so what is the model number for the 02 Viper on the web site they suggest SB1010S for a 92-97.

 

[SneakyPete]

Just call Jon B. at RartsRack.com.

he will hook you up for the lowest price and has all the part numbers.

 

[jrkermode]

Your ABS can compensate for some difference in coefficient of friction front to rear, BUT, it's best to run the same compound on both axles.

Last I checked, they did not make PFC01's for the rear, I recall 97's being the hardest compound available. That's what I ran on my car (1 day, then the pads were toast).

Did I mention the PFC's are REALLY noisy and REALLY dusty?

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

Did I mention the PFC's are REALLY noisy and REALLY dusty?

But they grip like a ****. Best pad I've used by far.

Two bottles will flush completely. Do so as close to your track date as possible.

 

[Iceman]

If you used PFC 01's for the front, what did you use for the back?

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

Hawk 9012 Blue.

 

[Iceman]

Ok, went to the track day. Had an awesome time. Ended up using the PFC 01 for the front and Brakeman 3 for the back. Motul 600 brake fluid. Braking was not an issue any more.

The Viper was more than up for the challenge. I was passing by Corvettes and Z06's like they were not there. The only real challenge came from a 911 turbo but he really did not have enough acceleration. I could always catch him on the straights and I soon passed him.

There was somewhat of an issue with overheating. The temperature gauge was right under the redline. About 230 degrees. Any ideas on how to cool it better? How about CoolICE?

Thanks to everybody for your advice...