what size are the bolts that attach the side sills under the car?

Vital Velocity

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Posting on smart phone and search feature doesn't work that well on here so ifs something that can be easily found with a search, my apologies
 

bluesrt

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why, do you only have 1 socket? i would tell you if i had my car with me.
 
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Vital Velocity

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No while changing out my rear end I looked and noticed I have no bolts securing it so i wanted to pick them up. I'm more concerned with thread sze for the hole
 

dave6666

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They are hex head self threading sheet metal screws in factory form. No bolts are used. I believe they are 4 or 5 mm x 16 mm body screws. Removed with a 5/16 or 8 mm hex driver IIRC. I may still have a handful of the factory ones as I converted to machine screws.
 

Timnineside

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Mine has a eclectic variey of 5/16 hex, 3/8 hex, and X heads. I think any 5/16 sheet metal screw will do. And word to Dave6666 you may find some in those rear tires. Unless your drive in reverse a lot check your fronts.....
 

2000_Black_RT10

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You know what worked for me, I had some extra drag tire wheel bead screws for slicks (for another drag car), and they worked out great as a replacement.

They're a high grade sheetmetal thread type of screw and coated to help prevent galvanic corrosion. All you need is a 3/8 socket to install them, they'll bite right into the existing hole (drilling is not needed) and clamp the sill extremely well.

Can order them here:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-4318/

Here's a couple pics I snapped for you guys, as I removed these screws many times when removing the side sills, it is a great solution. I also added some washers.

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Cheers,
Mike
 

2000_Black_RT10

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Just a quick follow-up to my previously reply with a bit more info, if it's of any interest. If not, no worries...

To address galvanic corrosion, I specifically used a zinc coated washer, as the zinc would be the sacrificial material up against the aluminum rocker panel.

If you were to install rivnut as a repair, it is best to use a coated / plated steel rivnut, an aluminum rivnut installed into steel is not ideal regarding galvanic corrosion.

Do not use a stainless steel screw, if you were to use a stainless (uncoated) fastener, during galvanic corrorison, the aluminum rocker panel will then be the sacrificial material, in other words, the stainless screw will eat the aluminum rocker panel like an anode.

Cheers,
Mike
 

AHudson777

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I'd say DEFINITELY of interest. Not being much on metallurgy, and missing a couple of screws (I mean THESE screws!) makes this great info. Thanks.
 

dave6666

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Not to trump Mike, as I actually respect his opinion, but galvanic corrosion should be a minor consideration to someone that does not let their car get or stay wet all the time. Some do, but the average owner does not.

Galvanic corrosion is an electrochemical process in which one metal corrodes preferentially to another when both metals are in electrical contact and immersed in an electrolyte.

Salt water is a good electrolyte so if you drive your car in the ocean you are at a particular risk.

As has been pointed out before, hardware store Type A pointed tapping screws are readily available at local hardware stores if you don't want to pay $9.99 for Summit's free shipping.

I have the steel rivet nuts in my car and SS hex head machine screws. I wouldn't use aluminum rivet nuts on anything.

Then again, my side sills are non-metallic and the 3/16" thick aluminum splitters makes for a continuous flat washer.

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While you have the sills off and you're worried about corrosion, you should check the condition of your body seam sealer where the cats are. I repaired mine and then repainted black.

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