WoodHouse Engine Mounts on a Gen 4
- Thread starter SRT09
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VicTxV10
Enthusiast
As per Mark Jergunson you can knock off the nub on the passenger side wish I would have known this 4 hrs of struggling ago
Yep, after about four hours of trying all the above advice, Mark told me the same thing. Cut it off.
Wow, I was just going to post on these mounts for a GEN4, I put them on my Gen3 and it was amazing how it solidified the shifting and all. My question for you guys that have done it on the Gen4 is - on the Gen3 it was a real difference in NVH on the interior, the Gen3 is already a little gruff inside, and it made it a bit more so especially with my top up. The Gen4 is so much smoother then the Gen3, I'm wondering how the mounts would affect that, would it get really more NVH as a result or just a bit more, so still not as bad as the Gen3 on the woodhouse mounts? (not saying a Gen3 is bad with the mounts at all, just my wife enjoys the smoother Gen4 & I wnat to know how much unsmoother, lol, it'll be as a result) thnx
Sorry for slight hijack, BTW
Sorry for slight hijack, BTW
Darth Menace
Enthusiast
What does NVH stand for?
Noise, vibration, harshness.
klamathpro
Viper Owner
Now you're just making up acronyms as you go.
I had the same problem on my GEN1 and 2. I don't know why Woodhouse doesn't eliminate or shorten the location of the slot key on one side. I ended up shaving half of one off but still left a little remaining to "key" the mount into the slot.
FEDBYVORTECH
Viper Owner
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I have had these motor and tranny mounts on my shelf for 2 years. Picked them up for my gen 3. Will the gen 3 mounts fit gen 4? I have to say i like how smooth the gen4 rides, not sure if it is worth the trade off.
Now you're just making up acronyms as you go.
I had the same problem on my GEN1 and 2. I don't know why Woodhouse doesn't eliminate or shorten the location of the slot key on one side. I ended up shaving half of one off but still left a little remaining to "key" the mount into the slot.
When I installed them on my 98 earlier this year I didn't have to modify anything. Leave all the nuts loose until eveything is in place, then I made sure there wasn't any load on either side before tightening.
klamathpro
Viper Owner
I tried that, I even took off the bracket bolt that goes to the block. I raised and lowered the engine a dozen times. Nothing worked and I had to do the same thing I did to my 94'. It was off about 1/4" no matter what I tried. Shaving half the dowel stub is all that worked for me. When you campare how far the dowel stub is from the bolt stud, it's off from the oem by about 1/4".
HOLLYWOOD1
Enthusiast
Im not doing their R&D for them so they can fix the product before I will think of writing a cheque. This problem has been ongoing for years now.
You would think they would atleast put some instructions in with the mounts they have alot of people waisting alot of there own time for nothing if there was some simple instructions.
mjorgensen Woodhouse
Enthusiast
Thank you for not wanting to do any R&D for us. We have sold HUNDREDS of sets of these mounts and everyone has figured a way to get them in, but MOST people have them slip right in without modifications. We have never had to modify any that we have installed here in the shop, but that does not mean there aren't tolerance differences between cars or installation "techniques". We have told people that if they are having a real problem that yes you can grind off the locating tab, the passenger side stock one does not have it anyway. The tab was included in the original design to keep production cost down and avoid having a passenger spec side and drivers spec side which would elevate the cost further for this low production part.
Most buyers have said it was well worth any hassle to get the positive feel back into their Viper, with improved shifting and reduction of wheel hop they can easily pay for them selves in prevented damage of the diff, axles, or transmission.
Thank you,
We did not think instructions were needed as they are a replacement for what you have to remove anyway, this unfortunately would have added packaging and printing cost also. Not trying to be cheap, but I think they are costly enough that we did not have to include what most installers already know. Sorry for any confusion or inconveniences you may have had.
Most buyers have said it was well worth any hassle to get the positive feel back into their Viper, with improved shifting and reduction of wheel hop they can easily pay for them selves in prevented damage of the diff, axles, or transmission.
Thank you,
We did not think instructions were needed as they are a replacement for what you have to remove anyway, this unfortunately would have added packaging and printing cost also. Not trying to be cheap, but I think they are costly enough that we did not have to include what most installers already know. Sorry for any confusion or inconveniences you may have had.
How are they a direct replacemt when they have an extra nub that the factory ones don't? Wow glad a 5 cent piece of papper is going to hurt your profit margin enough that after reading that many people have waisted hrs of there time trying to install a product that doesn't fit a sold. Funny on the phone you said you had to grind that nub off yourself and appologiesed for not telling me the day before when I phoned to ask if the mounts would fit my gen 4 and if there was any secrets to getting them in easier.
ACR steve
Enthusiast
Mark, how does it help wheel hop?
mjorgensen Woodhouse
Enthusiast
The drive train is more stable and does not wind up when the wheels spin. When you have traction and then loose it the drive train will snap back, then again when the tire grabs. This winding motion will keep popping the tire loose then let it regain traction back and forth accentuating the hop. There are other reasons suspension can have hop, but this seems to tame the condition down a bit.
mjorgensen Woodhouse
Enthusiast
I do not make or package the mounts, I personally did not build the mounts, they were designed when the World Challenge team was formed way back. Now they are owned by another company and I buy and sell them. I think it makes it easier for them to sell with our name still on them and I do sell them because of the history behind them. With that said I personally have no say as to what is included with the mounts as far as instructions etc... I help people (not just customers) all day long in the form of Email, forums and as you know over the phone. I do not remember selling you the mounts though, did I or did you buy them someplace else? Sorry if I do not remember, I don't think you said where you got them before you asked the questions. I did look back though and don't see anything going to Canada in the recent month or two. If I did sell them to you I would be more then happy to refund at least the shipping you paid for your troubles, just send me an Email with your name and address for the check. Again I'm sorry I don't remember you.
Mark I love the mounts just not the fact that there was no info with them that the nub might have to be ground off. After I talked to you in the morning it only took me 30 min to remove the mount grind the nub off and I was done. I just hated waisting the 4 hrs the night before assuming they should fit the way they came.
JAY
Enthusiast
Just ordered a set myself , thanx Mark for your patience . 
Cheers Jay
PS Sent you an email
Cheers Jay
PS Sent you an email
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