Crank pully and bolt came off

Twister

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Two weeks ago the car overheated from a koolant spill while driving (havent located the cause of the spill yet)

Was less than a mile from homw when the engine temp shot up and I herd a loud clunk.

Got to my driveway and the crank pully had spun off. Serpentine bely caught the pulley from hitting the ground and also still had the crank bolt.

Ordered a new bolt from RoeRacing and put a new serpentine belt on. Trying to torque the bolt back on but the pulley also seems to be spinning and dosent seem to get tight. The angle is very difficult to torque so Im gonna try fromunder the car tomorrow.

Is it normal for it to move like that while torqueing? Roe sells a crank pinning kit but never needed it in 5 yearsof ownership.
 

Camfab

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You probably need a new balancer, did you inspect the balancer before you put it back on? Is the crank snout damaged?
 
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Twister

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Didnt notice any damage. Far from a mechanic though.

This is the lightweight underdrive crank pully from parts wharehouse. Still have the stocker but would prefer to leave this on
 

plumcrazy

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can you snap a picture of the crank snout maybe to get a better look of it ? sticking your head down there is touch unless on a lift
 

Fatboy 18

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Hi Twister, here are some pics of when I changed out my pulleys on my Gen2 They might give you a better idea of what to look for :)
The end of the crankshaft
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I did not like the asthetic look of the old crankshaft damper, so I rubbed it down with Emery paper and sprayed it with Hammerite smooth gloss black paint.
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You can see the damper in this pic (behind Dave's Big Brakes under drive pulley)
Note also the new water pump pulley and idler wheel.
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The harmonic ballencer has to go on square, its also big torque numbers to tighten that nut, you need a six sided 31mm socket, you need to put the car in reverse and get someone to push on the brakes too. You should use loctite on the bolt and torque it to 340 Nm - 250 Ft Lbs BIG NUMBERS!

See here
http://forums.viperclub.org/threads/...ft+damper+bolt
 

MTGTS

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Might have to pin your crank and pulley. Roe has the kit. If you find that your pulley is damaged I have an extra that is already pinned.
 

CEJ

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FB18, thanks for posting those pics. Was the rubber in the balancer showing any signs of aging?

If you still have the stock p/s pulley and bracket, check out ipsco.org's website for a very nice pulley & bracket. I've installed them on three Vipers so far and they are very well made pieces.
 

Fatboy 18

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FB18, thanks for posting those pics. Was the rubber in the balancer showing any signs of aging?

If you still have the stock p/s pulley and bracket, check out ipsco.org's website for a very nice pulley & bracket. I've installed them on three Vipers so far and they are very well made pieces.
Hard to tell really, the damper had loose flaking paint and rust all over it (and this is a California car) once I cleaned it up it looked OK :) If I was going for FI on my engine I would upgrade the damper, but for NA it looked OK. As for the Power steering pulley and bracket, its all sitting in the garage in boxes waiting to go on the car when I get some free time.....when ever that will be, works gone mad! :D
 

Mopar488

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That happened on my 2000 GTS. I thought Dodge got that straightened out. What a PITA.
 
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Twister

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Update

Thanks for the responses.

Got the crank pulley back on. Had to really torque the hell out of it. 250 ft lbs is no joke. Also found a massive leak coming from my power steering. As well i suspect my roeracing 170 degree thermostat is bad or the waterpump went as the koolant temp is skyrocketing. However seems to be no koolant leak like Isuspected.

Ill post a more detailed video of my findings shortly
 

Flexx91

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That happened on my 2000 GTS. I thought Dodge got that straightened out. What a PITA.

I'm surprised as well. There was a TSB on this issue back in 2004. If your car was serviced at a Dodge dealership during this time period, they should have flagged the TSB and corrected this problem.
 

CEJ

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... its all sitting in the garage in boxes waiting to go on the car when I get some free time.....when ever that will be, works gone mad! :D

Oh man, that sounds like my situation! But, being busy at work is better than being busy looking for work.
 

cash84

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Okay, did you at least put loctite on?!

Your power steering is what controls your coolant fan. It should be spinning really fast at normal temp. Power steering is a recall if it's the original pump.

Okay, you may think I sound like a dick but I think your mechanic that did your work is an idiot! None of these issues you been having should have come up.
 

345s-bspinnin

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Not trying to defend Twister or his mechanic, but the service manual explicitly states anti-seize and 250 ft-lbs. Can't really blame them if the service manuals haven't been updated.
 

cash84

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Oh it does say that but I've worked on enough vehicles and if I didn't put loctite on, it would actually get loose. According to the manual, you just put head gasket without putting any kind of sealant on. I learned my lesson on that because only when it the viper sit, coolant will have a couple drops on the engine mount on the passenger side from the headgasket and the block and head has been checked. Service manual is like a reference to use IMO.

I'm not talking about just that. Twister had other issues like noisy valvetrain. Spark plug boot came off under the intake manifold. Who knows what else.
 
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Twister

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Thanks forthe responses my 710 cammed brother. On a happiernote I dynoed 556 rwhp with zero head work and just that cam. Funnything is she hit that number immediately after changeing the tune on the dyno and honestly with a few more miles n the car and the car and pcm tune learning eachother she feels even stronger now.

I wont be surprised at all if shes close to 570 rwhp now.

Ofcourse she isnt staying together like you mentioned.

My mechanic has installed 2 cams in my corvette and now 2 cams in my viper as well as many many other things. Too include my nsx.


Most times its flawless and Ipick her up and its good to go. As a matter of facthe installed my 708 cam just ayear ago. I picked up 12 rwhp and never had a problem.


This time the plug wires were disconnected in the boots but not initially. Remember we dynoed the day of install and she was strong.

I had massive smoke from my exhaust. Ended up bein the arrow rockers that have failed me many times.

Now i havea power steering leak. But it seems to be a faulty seal on the bolt ill show you in a vid soon.

Car overheated due to waterpump or thermostat and the crank pully spun off.


My mechanics a good guy and yea theres times I feel like Im screwed but if you really take the time to trace and connect the dots most of its just badd luck.


Luckily I have you guys though so watch the vid and help me out a lil
 
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Twister

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So if my powersteering is looseing all the fluid like my vid will illustrate this is what can cause my vehicle to overheat?
 

Sonoman

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Yes, the fan is driven by the same hydraulic fluid that is used for the power steering (and the same pump). The fan drive is sensitive to foreign particle contamination, so if something internal to the power steering pump or the power steering unit fails, it can take out the hydraulic fan drive mechanism. This fan unit is sold as an assembly, and it is expensive (like $700). I wouldn't drive the car if anything is amiss with the power steering.
 
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Twister

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I had no idea. So judging from what you saw in the vid likely my thermostat and waterpump are fine and its the fluid leaking from the power steering and causing the kooling fan to not operate that is causing my vehicle to overheat?

Anyone else can concur this?
 
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Twister

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I had no idea. So judging from what you saw in the vid likely my thermostat and waterpump are fine and its the fluid leaking from the power steering and causing the kooling fan to not operate that is causing my vehicle to overheat?

Anyone else can concur this?
 

BLK04

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Oh Twister,just watched the video & could not believe you put water in the power steering pump..your thermostat & waterpump are most likely fine & the p/s leak is what caused the overheating as the cooling fans would not be spinning,however you have now contaminated the entire system by adding water. Most likely a new o-ring will fix the p/s leak if the fitting is not cracked but the entire p/s system will have to be flushed out to get rid of the water contamination
 

AZTVR

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Here's my take on what happened (if there was no overheating problem the day/week before the crankshaft pulley/damper incident).

Crankshaft bolt loosens up allowing pulley to wobble just a bit. That causes vibration that causes the crankshaft bolt to come farther loose until the pulley wobbles enough to throw the belt. In the process, the wobbling belt damages the power steering pump by causing its pulley to wobble and damage the PS shaft seal. Then the belt comes off and neither your water pump or PS pump that powers the cooling system are working so your car quickly overheats. Then, having fixed the crankshaft, the power steering pump is still compromised, and since it "powers" the cooling fan, that system isn't working right. What a PITA! I feel for ya ! Whatever the reasons behind it all.
 

Viper Specialty

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There are so many things wrong here that I don't even want to post information for fear my head might explode, or I get dragged into this one. Either would be equally bad.

The only way I will help is if you promise to never open the hood again.
 

ViperGeorge

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Pretty clear from the video that Twister added water to the power steering pump. Not good. System will need to be flushed at a minimum but the water could have damaged the internals of the power steering pump and the hydraulic fans. That would **** as then the fan assembly and the power steering pump would both need to be changed. Twister if you do change the pump you will also need a new pulley for it, you're not supposed to reuse it. Power steering lines tend to leak in my experience, not sure why but I had two sets changed on my 06.
 

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