2002 Viper Dead!

SteveWoo

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Hi guys and gals, I need some help.

I am helping a friend with a project we are sharing. The car is a 2002 viper with about 7000 miles on it. Its in mint shape.
We picked up the car from some guy who never drove it.

Here is our problem. The car has no spark when turned over.

What happened is when we picked up the car, the son of the owner accidentally hooked up the booster cables backwards, for a brief moment, to his vehicle to jump start the viper.

The cables were hooked up under the viper hood – positive to the + stud near the fusebox and to the – grounding stud just bellow the fusebox, on the front of the rocker panel.
The car just turns over now.

Now, from my experience, I figure something shorted out. I’m really hoping it’s not the computer. I already looked at the fuses and they all seem intact.
I figure it’s either:
  • A fuse or fuse-able link somewhere
  • Ignition relay or module
  • The computer itself
Can anyone help me out here and give me a plan of attack? Surely someone on this board has dealt with a viper whose ignition system was shorted out in some manner.
I’m hoping to save some time here and get this problem fixed without too much hassle.

Also, I don’t have any books on this car, can anyone point to some schematics so I can locate fuse-able links and other components? Drawings would be entirely helpful.

Again, thanks for reading and any help would be greatly appreciated!
 

Phun70

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I would borrow a scan tool and see if you can get communication with the pcm. If you can't then I'd start tracing wires for power and grounds. There should be some fusible links coming off that red stud where you hooked up the positive lead. Check them by pulling on them, and if they stretch, you've found the culprit.
 

eucharistos

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wow

stinks to be the victim of a dufus like that, hope he compensated you and it is as simple as a fuse

btw, i have a friend steve wu

:drive:
 

KNG SNKE

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Did you look at the fuses or test each of them? Also did you check the fuse block in the trunk of your car? Please ensure to remove each fuse and test resistivity to ensure they are good. No all fuses are noticeably blown, some can be deceiving.
 

AFL in NJ

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In the hatch area, there are a few relays against the inside of the quarter panel, the bottom one is the fuel relay.....when you turn the key, you should hear a slight whine of the fuel pump powering up, if you don't hear that whine, replace the fuel pump relay:

Part # 4848193 (should be about $20-24)

Regards,
Aaron

P.S. This assumes you have a new battery that tests 100% fine
 

mbccenter

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There is a ASD relay that needs to work. If not it will turn over but no spark. It pics up the crank and cam sensor and says its ok to run. I have had a problem with one and it was the computer that went bad.
 

Timnineside

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In the hatch area, there are a few relays against the inside of the quarter panel, the bottom one is the fuel relay.....when you turn the key, you should hear a slight whine of the fuel pump powering up, if you don't hear that whine, replace the fuel pump relay:

Part # 4848193 (should be about $20-24)

Regards,
Aaron

P.S. This assumes you have a new battery that tests 100% fine


Affirmative to this one^^ Had it happen twice last year. Just had to wiggle the relay around. Cleaned up the contacts and put lithium greese and NO more problem.

I would like to know the method you used the check for spark.

You said no spark while turning it over??? Do you have have spark when NOT turning it over??? That would point directly towards the computer!

Sounds like your fuel pump is NOT turning on. Like Aaron said its on the drivers side quarter, just behind the wheel well. There is a fuse in there as well, but im not 100% what its for (guessing fuel pump fuse)!

Good Luck, and keep us posted!!!

-Tim
 

01sapphirebob

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I would also suggest a fresh battery as well. Seems a lot of problems can be traced back to a bad/old battery.
 
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SteveWoo

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Wow, thank you all for the suggestions! I'm going to work on the car tomorrow. I will certainly keep you guys posted!

I tried to borrow a scanner from a friend, but he told me he had to send it to snap on for repairs. Just my luck.

The way I checked for spark – I pulled out a plug, grounded it and had someone turn the engine over. No spark. It was a quick and dirty way, I know, but what are you gonna do when your out in the middle of no-where?
I will take a much closer look tomorrow and see if I can eliminate some of these possibilities.

Again, a big thanks to everyone and I will return with an update asap.

P.S: I didn’t even know there was a fusebox in the trunk! Crossing my fingers! LOL

You guys rock...
 

PatentLaw

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I would also suggest a fresh battery as well. Seems a lot of problems can be traced back to a bad/old battery.

In my opinion, this is the correct answer. Honestly, you need lots of juice to jump the car, if that is what you were going to do. It sounds like the car is turning over, but you dont have enough juice to do the deal.

Checks Aarons suggestion above, as it is a good one. Don't overlook the obvious....you need a good battery. Hope it works....
 

costanZo

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Hi guys and gals, I need some help.

I am helping a friend with a project we are sharing. The car is a 2002 viper with about 7000 miles on it. Its in mint shape.
We picked up the car from some guy who never drove it.

Here is our problem. The car has no spark when turned over.

What happened is when we picked up the car, the son of the owner accidentally hooked up the booster cables backwards, for a brief moment, to his vehicle to jump start the viper.

The cables were hooked up under the viper hood – positive to the + stud near the fusebox and to the – grounding stud just bellow the fusebox, on the front of the rocker panel.
The car just turns over now.

Now, from my experience, I figure something shorted out. I’m really hoping it’s not the computer. I already looked at the fuses and they all seem intact.
I figure it’s either:
  • A fuse or fuse-able link somewhere
  • Ignition relay or module
  • The computer itself
Can anyone help me out here and give me a plan of attack? Surely someone on this board has dealt with a viper whose ignition system was shorted out in some manner.
I’m hoping to save some time here and get this problem fixed without too much hassle.

Also, I don’t have any books on this car, can anyone point to some schematics so I can locate fuse-able links and other components? Drawings would be entirely helpful.

Again, thanks for reading and any help would be greatly appreciated!

I would borrow a scan tool and see if you can get communication with the pcm. If you can't then I'd start tracing wires for power and grounds. There should be some fusible links coming off that red stud where you hooked up the positive lead. Check them by pulling on them, and if they stretch, you've found the culprit.

Mark, do you think this could be similar to the issue you helped my father and I with last summer? My computer was fried and I needed a new one. After reading this, it kinda sounds familiar to what happened to me.
 

costanZo

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Hi guys and gals, I need some help.

I am helping a friend with a project we are sharing. The car is a 2002 viper with about 7000 miles on it. Its in mint shape.
We picked up the car from some guy who never drove it.

Here is our problem. The car has no spark when turned over.

What happened is when we picked up the car, the son of the owner accidentally hooked up the booster cables backwards, for a brief moment, to his vehicle to jump start the viper.

The cables were hooked up under the viper hood – positive to the + stud near the fusebox and to the – grounding stud just bellow the fusebox, on the front of the rocker panel.
The car just turns over now.

Now, from my experience, I figure something shorted out. I’m really hoping it’s not the computer. I already looked at the fuses and they all seem intact.
I figure it’s either:
  • A fuse or fuse-able link somewhere
  • Ignition relay or module
  • The computer itself
Can anyone help me out here and give me a plan of attack? Surely someone on this board has dealt with a viper whose ignition system was shorted out in some manner.
I’m hoping to save some time here and get this problem fixed without too much hassle.

Also, I don’t have any books on this car, can anyone point to some schematics so I can locate fuse-able links and other components? Drawings would be entirely helpful.

Again, thanks for reading and any help would be greatly appreciated!

When you try to turn the key, can you hear the fuel pump at all? I couldn't and replaced the fuse for it.. which still didn't solve the problem.. it was also a pain in the a$$ to get to it....not a lot of arm room near the fuses... basically, we think from jump starting the car, it fried the computer since I was later told you should never jump start a viper.. The next time my Viper died from not being on a tender, I hooked up a Battery starter/charger and switched it over to the 35amp setting and let it charge for 30-45min and my car started up fine. As a note to self, with the GEN II, try to keep it under a 35amp charge.. that's what Steve Heitz told me to do. In the end, I needed to order a new computer which cost me $750. Hopefully, your issue isn't the same as mine was, but just in case it is.. I thought I would post my similar experience last summer. Steve Indy from these forums may also be able to give some insight on this issue. He is very knowledgeable in this area and spoke with me for quite awhile on the phone, along with Mark(Phun70) too... Speaking of that Mark, if you're ever up in my area I haven't forgot.. I still owe you some cold beers ;)
 
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Phun70

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When you try to turn the key, can you hear the fuel pump at all? I couldn't and replaced the fuse for it.. which still didn't solve the problem.. it was also a pain in the a$$ to get to it....not a lot of arm room near the fuses... basically, we think from jump starting the car, it fried the computer since I was later told you should never jump start a viper.. The next time my Viper died from not being on a tender, I hooked up a Battery starter/charger and switched it over to the 35amp setting and let it charge for 30-45min and my car started up fine. As a note to self, with the GEN II, try to keep it under a 35amp charge.. that's what Steve Heitz told me to do. In the end, I needed to order a new computer which cost me $750. Hopefully, your issue isn't the same as mine was, but just in case it is.. I thought I would post my similar experience last summer. Steve Indy from these forums may also be able to give some insight on this issue. He is very knowledgeable in this area and spoke with me for quite awhile on the phone, along with Mark(Phun70) too... Speaking of that Mark, if you're ever up in my area I haven't forgot.. I still owe you some cold beers ;)




No problem brother. Let me know what shows you're going to this year. Nationals maybe?? (Ohio) I'll meet you there and we can toss back a few! Always happy to help. Mark "Throttle" Hawks
 

DrumrBoy

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Maybe I'm underestimating the downside, but if all the fuses are OK and the PCM is compromised, a perfectly fine but used PCM can be had for under $200, right?

Hopefully its something really simple, but rest easy, PCMs aren't expensive.
 

Phun70

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Did you check the fusible links?? Do you have communication with a scan tool to the pcm?? If no communication, we need to go over a wiring diagram and check the powers and grounds to the pcm.
 

costanZo

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No problem brother. Let me know what shows you're going to this year. Nationals maybe?? (Ohio) I'll meet you there and we can toss back a few! Always happy to help. Mark "Throttle" Hawks

When is the one in Ohio? I wasn't planning on it, but I wouldn't completely say it's out of the question.. I'm trying to save up and get a lot of mods done.. if I were able to get them done before hand, I would most likely consider it! By the way, I'm about 3.5 hours from Chuck Tator, so if you're ever in that area let me know.. I'm always up for a good road trip if the weather is nice.. I have friends throughout NY and CT so I could always find a place to crash if need be :2tu:
 

Phun70

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When is the one in Ohio? I wasn't planning on it, but I wouldn't completely say it's out of the question.. I'm trying to save up and get a lot of mods done.. if I were able to get them done before hand, I would most likely consider it! By the way, I'm about 3.5 hours from Chuck Tator, so if you're ever in that area let me know.. I'm always up for a good road trip if the weather is nice.. I have friends throughout NY and CT so I could always find a place to crash if need be :2tu:

Look in events and gatherings or under the ohio club section for mopar nationals and you will find the info. I'm going this year for sure!
 
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SteveWoo

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Ok guys - time for an update! I've been busy; my mother fell on some exercise equipment and bruised some ribs. After a whole night in the hospital, I was worried and spent a few days helping her out.

Anyway, I got the car running today! It was a simple fuse in the trunk. Yeah!! The car has this insane sound system in it and the fusebox was hidden behind some amps bolted in the left rear corner of the trunk.

Man o man is this thing loud, engine wise. Apparently, the cats were removed by a dealer and they installed a full mopar exhaust system in it. It sounds wicked but I can already see the tickets this thing will acquire…

Thanks to everyone for the tips, I took some pictures of her for you guys. Check it out! Tell me that's not the coolest viper roof ever!

Now if the snow would finish melting, I could take her for a spin!
 

Mutts02GTS

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Glad to hear it was a simple fix, congrats on that one, looks like you have the cruise control mod installed on the car, I don't use mine often but it is VERY nice on long trips, I'm 6'2" and it saves my right knee from being bent and locked against the tranny tunnel to keep the speed steady. Enjoy the car. Jeff
 

costanZo

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Anyway, I got the car running today! It was a simple fuse in the trunk. Yeah!! The car has this insane sound system in it and the fusebox was hidden behind some amps bolted in the left rear corner of the trunk.

I can relate to this... I hope I never have to get near that fusebox again...was such a pain to get to, and even worse putting in or taking out a fuse.
 
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SteveWoo

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Hi guys,
Yeah, it was the top fuse, 10a I think. I took one of the 15a fuses off one of the stereo amps and sure enough, it fired right up.
I also did what you guys told me to and put a charger on the battery for 3 or 4 days. The battery was stone dead when I initially tried to start it. Its a high end gel cell so I figured it would take the charge. When you pay 200 bucks for a little battery, the frigin thing better last a year. heheh.
Also, I AM looking forward to using that cruise control! Wonder if it works at 160 miles an hour? Teehee!!

Cheers!
 

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