2006 coupe rear shock nightmare

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2006 coupe. I need some advice I have been fighting with the rear shocks since January. I have posted about it several times. I bought the aldans and just want to go back to the originals. But I destroyed them taking them off the forks. So I just bought on ebay a good set of originals. The aldans are 22 inches long and fit off and on easy. But the originals I see from these I bought are 23 1/2 inches long. The aldans bolted in perfectly no problem with length. But the originals yes I got them in place but they are 1 1/2 inches too long to go into the bolts. I need to lower the A arms that much Do I loosen the sway bar to do that and if I unbolt the sway bar from the lower A arm is that ok I am 81 and do not have much body strength dont want to be fighting with the bar afterwards. will that lower the amount I need. any help please can call Rich in Morristown NJ 973 769 0092
 

Goggles Pizano

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Can't you manually compress the shock? Maybe with a strap or bunch of zip ties.
How did the original ones come out?
 
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At 81 it was 6 months ago and my memory just cant remember what I did to get it out. But after that the aldans are much shorter so they just bolted in perfectly holes lined up but when I put the aldan next to the stock shock could see the difference. It takes tremendous pressure to compress the spring the viper shock are under tension when put together unlike the aftermarket ones. The stock shock has a spring about 13 inches long and the aldan is 8 inches thanks for the reply
 

Goggles Pizano

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Just state what city you are in. Maybe someone is close by who can help. I can then ask on the other forum too for you.
 
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I have to drop the A arms I think by removing the sway bar link to the lower arm I can drop the arms just dont know
Has there been a link ever on how to install factory rear shocks on these cars I would think that sometime between 2006 and the present someone would have obtained an original set of factor shocks and installed them especially when the cars where newer and they were available.
 

Steve M

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Removing the end links will probably help at least some. Note that the end links have a tapered portion that seats in the A-arms and the bar - they will be in there tight even after you remove the nuts. A puller set like this can help tremendously: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08J6QV984/

A hammer and a brass drift punch can also be used in a pinch.

If you find torn end link boots (common), this thread should help a little: https://www.viperclub.org/vca/threads/oem-sway-bar-end-link-rebuild-w-pics.678506/

Most will just buy aftermarket end links vs. replacing the boots, but most of the aftermarket pieces aren't built as well as the OEM links.

When you go to tighten the shock bolts down, make sure you jack the arms up to as close to their normal ride height position as you can before torquing the bolts down to spec. If you don't, the rubber bushings will bind, which will affect suspension operation to some extent.
 
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Removing the end links will probably help at least some. Note that the end links have a tapered portion that seats in the A-arms and the bar - they will be in there tight even after you remove the nuts. A puller set like this can help tremendously: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08J6QV984/

A hammer and a brass drift punch can also be used in a pinch.

If you find torn end link boots (common), this thread should help a little: https://www.viperclub.org/vca/threads/oem-sway-bar-end-link-rebuild-w-pics.678506/

Most will just buy aftermarket end links vs. replacing the boots, but most of the aftermarket pieces aren't built as well as the OEM links.

When you go to tighten the shock bolts down, make sure you jack the arms up to as close to their normal ride height position as you can before torquing the bolts down to spec. If you don't, the rubber bushings will bind, which will affect suspension operation to some extent.
Well I got into it this morning and 6 hours later I tried to take out the sway bar link but it wqs stuck in there I removed the upper A arm bolts and it gave me almost enough but I had to take the links out but they were now twisted so I took a sawzul and cut it in half the top one came right out that gave me enough to bolt the shocks in then I dealt with the bottom link part used a big hammer and knocked it out, then reattached the upper arm one bolt easy the other took over an hour but it is done I ordered on amazon some moog end links will have them tomorrow hope it will work ok
 

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When I installed my lowering caps I just used a spring compressor I rented from the auto parts store. It was a little tight and fiddly but it did work. Too bad you started cutting and beating already I’m 10min from you.
 
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That is why I asked him to post his location and I would have posted something on the alley for him too.

Rep for @intense5.5.
If you are only a few minutes away come on over I have a sunbeam tiger I just finished be selling that and have a 67 GT 390 mustang I finished my son has a 57 chevy and a 67 vette he is selling just text or phone 973 769 0092
 
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When I installed my lowering caps I just used a spring compressor I rented from the auto parts store. It was a little tight and fiddly but it did work. Too bad you started cutting and beating already I’m 10min from you.
Ok right comment please feel free to come and visit I got it done now but maybe you need a 66 Sunbeam Tiger selling that
 
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Ok I have it done now here is what I discovered If you are replacing with aftermarket rear shocks 2003 to 2010 no need to get nuts just take the rubber grommet out above the shock which will allow the top of the shock to go up into the car to get it out of the car. The if aftermarket shocks just bolt in in no need to remove lnks or A arms. But if replacing with original shocks remove the top link to sway bar easy to do, leave the bottom part of the linkalone. The undo the top A arm bolts and drop it down now easy to just bolt in the shocks and before tightening the a arm bolts and shock bolt raise the lower arm up to put the arms in regular position. tighten the bolts by using a 3 foot extension on your wrench or socket. They must be tight as hell and done with the suspension in normal position.
 
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Ok I have it done now here is what I discovered If you are replacing with aftermarket rear shocks 2003 to 2010 no need to get nuts just take the rubber grommet out above the shock which will allow the top of the shock to go up into the car to get it out of the car. The if aftermarket shocks just bolt in in no need to remove lnks or A arms. But if replacing with original shocks remove the top link to sway bar easy to do, leave the bottom part of the linkalone. The undo the top A arm bolts and drop it down now easy to just bolt in the shocks and before tightening the a arm bolts and shock bolt raise the lower arm up to put the arms in regular position. tighten the bolts by using a 3 foot extension on your wrench or socket. They must be tight as hell and done with the suspension in normal position.
By the way the reason you have to tighten the bolts extremely well is that the shock mounts have slop in mounts holes are larger than the bolt itself so will make noise if not tight., then also if the bolts were not tightened at the proper height the rubber will not work right on the a arms my car now ran great as good as new believe my problem was a faulty link on the right side lots of people have that clunk sound on the right rear do 2 things tigheten the hell out of the shock bolts and replace the links also the bottom link wouldn't come out a small amount of heat for about 20 second torch and it popped right out. 2 diff metals alum and steel dont beat it up just heat
 
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