96 dipstick indicator

regularsavings

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The head of my dipstick indicator snapped off so I ordered a new one (MOPAR part number 5245899). I noticed the indicator is about an inch longer than the previous one in my car, and looks a little bit different -- the tip of it starts to corkscrew, whereas the broken one is flat. Because it is an inch longer it gives a completely different reading than the one that was previously in there. I'm not sure what to make of this...?


The car has been upgraded with the MOPAR performance oil pan if this matters.
 
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regularsavings

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5245899 is what the dealership told me was for a 96 GTS. Also Chuck Tator listed the part numbers in an old thread and he said 96 GTS too: http://forums.viperclub.org/archive/index.php/t-530279.html?

I guess I'm wondering if because of the oil pan change I need a different indicator than the stock one, or a different tube. The one I just bought is reading like 3 quarts low even though it was just changed.
 
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Chad is definitely correct: The 5245899 is for the 1992 - 1996 RT/10 while the 4763791AB was for the 1996 GTS. It has since been superseded by part #4763791AC and then 4763791AD (the most current). Note that Chrysler says to also replace the tube at the same time as the dipstick itself. They even issued a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) on it:

When replacing the engine oil dipstick and tube, it is important that the correct parts are
used to prevent under or over filling the engine with oil. Damage to the engine can result
from either condition. The following chart provides the proper part number information for
each model and year.

Year....................Model................Dipstick Part Number.................Tube Part Number
1992.....................RT/10.................05245899...............................05245898
1993.....................RT/10.................05245899...............................05245898
1994.....................RT/10.................05245899...............................05245898
1995.....................RT/10.................05245899...............................05245898
1996.....................RT/10.................05245899...............................05245898
1996......................GTS..................04763791AD...........................04763792AC
1997-2002..........RT/10 & GTS............04763791AD...........................04763792AC


NOTE:
WHEN INSTALLING THE NEW DIPSTICK (P/N 05245898) AND TUBE
(P/N 05245899) ON VEHICLES BUILT FROM 1992 TO 1994, IT IS
IMPORTANT THAT ONLY 9 QUARTS OF OIL BE ADDED WHEN
REPLACING THE OIL AND OIL FILTER. INSTRUCT THE OWNER TO ONLY
FILL TO THE FULL POSITION ON THE DIPSTICK.


Bottom line: For your GTS you need dipstick part #4763791AD and should also replace the tube with part number 04763792AC. Hope this helps!
 

Dan Cragin

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The 96 GTS dipsticks had a red ring around the top that went over the dipstick tube. These did not seal well and often popped out with crankcase pressure. As VPA stated they superseded number was the fix. Dealers are often confused with 96 Vipers as they had two generations that year.
 

AZTVR

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The one question not addressed by the experts above is the oil pan change? I have seen other similar posts and have not seen anyone specifically address whether changing oil pans changes the oil level relative to the pan mounting surface. I can guess that they would all be designed to have the same level; but, it would be good to have someone who knows for sure to chime in.
 

Tom Sessions

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The upgraded pans that were being in installed lowered the bottom of the pan . So the dipstick will still read correctly even with the higher capacity.
 

Ron

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What Tom said plus it's frequently better to order parts for a 1997 GTS rather than a 1996 GTS (unless a uniquely 1996 GTS part) as many dealers will order the GENI part given that it was a mixed year with 1996 RT/10 being GENI engines and 1996 GTS obviously being GENII's.
 

Tom and Vipers

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I have to fix mine too. What are my options nowadays?

Wow, I had to resurrect this thread - have been dealing with the same issues: (found thread searching for newly discovered 4763792AB!)
I have a 96 GTS where they put the upgraded oil pan on.
The dipstick has a scribed mark 1-1/4" below the FULL mark on the dipstick (prev owner said scribe is proper fill level)

My tube: 4763792AB
My stick: 5245899:

1) stick is stamped with the part number
2) has a twisted end
3) is about 1-1/4" too short

What part number was stamped on your straight ended, too long dipstick?

My stick has a "can" on the top which snaps and seals over a raised rib on the tube OD.

1) there is no "red" anything
2) the snap is tremendously hard to pull out - I could see a plastic handle breaking off (I have the MGW handle) - can't imagine crankcase pushing this stick out.

Mitchel calls out a 4763791AB stick:
1) all my factory pdf parts manuals do not show this
2) this part is available for about $3 and current online pics show it being the yellow plastic handle (!! Isn't this part supposed to be the entire dipstick assembly??)

Pics of the superseded dipstick did not make sense to me because an internally sealing o-ring type would not work with my AB tube which is not bell mouthed. THIS THREAD answered that question: the tube must also be replaced! THANK YOU for that tidbit!

Pic of my 899/792AB combo

1) where's this red supposed to be?
2) there is no way crankcase pressure could blow this stick out, the snap is insanely strong.
 

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GTS Dean

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This is a good find Tom.

Your tube is for a '92-'96.0 with the Gen 1 wet sleeve engine. The belled cap is correct for your G1 tube. It was designed to seat into the pan itself, (picture below) instead of the lower block flange area of all Gen 2s. All the tubes are the same diameter at the block, or pan insertion boss. Your dipstick (not the handle) is for a '97-'02 engine and it should be shorter than the '96.5 coupe's. That's why the scribed oil level reference is nearer to the bottom of the stick, isn't it? To be correct, it should be 20-1/8" from the T-handle to the FULL mark. The ADD mark is the same distance down as the operating range on the short stick.

Does the lower end of the tube have a beaded insertion stop at the block boss, or is it smooth all the way? If it's smooth, they probably just trimmed it shorter and put some sealant on it at the block. Keep the cap on the existing assembly for the time being because it will seal the crankcase pressure as designed. You can use whatever handle (without the fat bumps) you want on the stick by just tapping out the roll pin that holds the handle on.
 

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Tom and Vipers

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SCORE: Found a motherlode of NOS 4763791AB sticks from Timothy Kyle Bomar who has "... a shop full of Gen 1 parts."

(Boomer's Garage https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=61555306735652&mibextid=opq0tG)
Great guy, his name has to be out there for parts if it already isn't.


How did I find this: Mentioned dipstick problem with garage buddy who has Mitchell. He logged on and found the 4763791AB part number (which "matches" my 4763792AB tube.) With thils "AB" # in hand, I searched internet and found a discussion of what I was dealing with. And the information that explained why any current # stick would not fit the 96 "AB" tube: the superseded stick had to have the tube also upgraded. I was unaware of this and now it all made sense. So I knew exactly what I needed. I posted my WTB on a FB Viper Parts forum and someone said check with Boomer. And that was it, he literally had a Fistful of Doll.... Sticks.


So I finally have the correct stick and also confirmed they got the scribe mark within 1/2 quart of where it should be:

You must be registered for see images attach


EDIT: another observation: the safe range is Wider on the OE "AB" stick w/OE pan than the "899" stick which some places say is a 1996 Only RT/10. Why the different interval? Usually ADD means "add 1 quart" and perhaps the 889 stick interval was not quite 2 quarts. So they lowered ADD a half quart to get "2 quarts." In fact the AC and AD short sticks, one says "2 quarts" and the other doesn't if I remember correctly - the only difference between the sticks was the lettering.

You must be registered for see images attach

Because these sticks are so rare.... I guess that isn't true any more. Never the less, out of respect for such a Unicorn, I'm not going to put the MGW handle on it. ....or should I... ...or use the truly weird black can instead of the stylish but expected red one - that could really confuse experts. LOL EDIT: I did put the MGW on the AB stick and placed the OE handle on my 899 stick - so I have a proper (except for a mysterious scribe mark) 899 stick for sale.

New Theory .... If the Gen 1's used the "snap can" stick/tube, it would explain why it showed up on the GTS for year 1996 which was the last year for Gen 1. AND IT MAY EXPLAIN THE RED CAN: The sticks have different full marks and a disaster if the wrong stick ended up in the wrong car rolling off the assembly line in 1996???

You must be registered for see images attach


EDIT: STICK BLOWING OUT THEORY: I don't think so:
*) the can snap requires OVER 25 POUNDS of pull to remove the dipstick - I just checked it with a tension scale and gave up at 25 - I suspect at least 5-10# more.
*) 250 psi in crankcase would be required to produce 25 # with a 3/8" ID tube (given tube is smaller and 25 is low, 400 psi?)
*) I'd bet even money on assembly no special instructions were given and since no hand assembler in their right mind would push the dipstick in hard enough to engage the crazy stiff snap, cars went out the door with the loose dipsticks not snapped in place.
*) Owners got them and had NO IDEA that a snap even existed let alone how hard that snap was and so never engaged it. (and without the snap, the dipstick is just laying in the tube with the slight friction of the curved bends at the top of the stick.
*) At the track, engine vibration would be enough to break the weak sticking friction of the stick bends and enough crank case pressure to lift the stick weight of a few ounces would be enough to raise it up in the tube. Of course once lifted a bit, what little seal was gone so then you'd need stagnation pressure to blow it out. I'll leave the rho*v**2/2 calculation to the reader.
NOTE: What is the pull out snap force? I don't know. At 25# pull, the impending "explosion" was more than I wanted to experience so I didn't pull harder. When I remove the stick, I don't pull - I pry: I wrap my fingers around the handle and then push off with my thumb on the expansion tank. To install, I seat it properly on the snap and carefully apply pressure with the palm of my hand - a lot of pressure ("what is going to break this time" goes thru my mind).

Feast your eyes on this one: (Yep, that's 26 of them - well 25 now.)

You must be registered for see images attach
 
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Viper224

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SCORE: Found a motherlode of NOS 4763791AB sticks from Timothy Kyle Bomar who has "... a shop full of Gen 1 parts."

(Boomer's Garage https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=61555306735652&mibextid=opq0tG)
Great guy, his name has to be out there for parts if it already isn't.


How did I find this: Mentioned dipstick problem with garage buddy who has Mitchell. He logged on and found the 4763791AB part number (which "matches" my 4763792AB tube.) With thils "AB" # in hand, I searched internet and found a discussion of what I was dealing with. And the information that explained why any current # stick would not fit the 96 "AB" tube: the superseded stick had to have the tube also upgraded. I was unaware of this and now it all made sense. So I knew exactly what I needed. I posted my WTB on a FB Viper Parts forum and someone said check with Boomer. And that was it, he literally had a Fistful of Doll.... Sticks.


So I finally have the correct stick and also confirmed they got the scribe mark within 1/2 quart of where it should be:

You must be registered for see images attach


EDIT: another observation: the safe range is Wider on the OE "AB" stick w/OE pan than the "899" stick which some places say is a 1996 Only RT/10. Why the different interval? Usually ADD means "add 1 quart" and perhaps the 889 stick interval was not quite 2 quarts. So they lowered ADD a half quart to get "2 quarts." In fact the AC and AD short sticks, one says "2 quarts" and the other doesn't if I remember correctly - the only difference between the sticks was the lettering.

You must be registered for see images attach

Because these sticks are so rare.... I guess that isn't true any more. Never the less, out of respect for such a Unicorn, I'm not going to put the MGW handle on it. ....or should I... ...or use the truly weird black can instead of the stylish but expected red one - that could really confuse experts. LOL EDIT: I did put the MGW on the AB stick and placed the OE handle on my 899 stick - so I have a proper (except for a mysterious scribe mark) 899 stick for sale.

New Theory .... If the Gen 1's used the "snap can" stick/tube, it would explain why it showed up on the GTS for year 1996 which was the last year for Gen 1. AND IT MAY EXPLAIN THE RED CAN: The sticks have different full marks and a disaster if the wrong stick ended up in the wrong car rolling off the assembly line in 1996???

You must be registered for see images attach


EDIT: STICK BLOWING OUT THEORY: I don't think so:
*) the can snap requires OVER 25 POUNDS of pull to remove the dipstick - I just checked it with a tension scale and gave up at 25 - I suspect at least 5-10# more.
*) 250 psi in crankcase would be required to produce 25 # with a 3/8" ID tube (given tube is smaller and 25 is low, 400 psi?)
*) I'd bet even money on assembly no special instructions were given and since no hand assembler in their right mind would push the dipstick in hard enough to engage the crazy stiff snap, cars went out the door with the loose dipsticks not snapped in place.
*) Owners got them and had NO IDEA that a snap even existed let alone how hard that snap was and so never engaged it. (and without the snap, the dipstick is just laying in the tube with the slight friction of the curved bends at the top of the stick.
*) At the track, engine vibration would be enough to break the weak sticking friction of the stick bends and enough crank case pressure to lift the stick weight of a few ounces would be enough to raise it up in the tube. Of course once lifted a bit, what little seal was gone so then you'd need stagnation pressure to blow it out. I'll leave the rho*v**2/2 calculation to the reader.
NOTE: What is the pull out snap force? I don't know. At 25# pull, the impending "explosion" was more than I wanted to experience so I didn't pull harder. When I remove the stick, I don't pull - I pry: I wrap my fingers around the handle and then push off with my thumb on the expansion tank. To install, I seat it properly on the snap and carefully apply pressure with the palm of my hand - a lot of pressure ("what is going to break this time" goes thru my mind).

Feast your eyes on this one: (Yep, that's 26 of them - well 25 now.)

You must be registered for see images attach
I've noticed this dipstick popping out issue on my 96 and stumbled onto this post. Are you saying I just haven't been pushing it hard enough to seal this whole time?...
 

GTS Dean

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Before I did the screw-down cap mod on my GTS, it would push the dipstick out under high engine loads at the track quite regularly.
 

Viper224

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Before I did the screw-down cap mod on my GTS, it would push the dipstick out under high engine loads at the track quite regularly.
Yeah I tried mine again when I got home last night and I feel the "snap" but it's really easy to lift out of the tube. Mine pops out just with regular driving so it kind of annoys me. I might have to try your mod. I've thought about finding a later year dipstick and tube to just replace it, but those seem to be unobtainium.
 

GTS Dean

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I used a couple tie wraps that I could slide over the tee handle to keep it from pushing out quite as bad. I think the primary culprit is blowby pressure. Lots of surface area to push against.
 

Tom and Vipers

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I have no explanation why others have a weak snap or no snap or have their dipstick blow out. Mine is so right, when snapping to close or open, the amount of force required is so great I wonder if something will break each time I do it. I get into the details in post #14

It might be the non-part-number-stamped tubes have a different annular "bump" in the tube. My tube is stamped "...AB" and I believe Deans said his is earlier and is not stamped. To you guys with no or weak snaps, check out the bump on my tube pic on reply #12.

I would also note that if you received your car with the tube unsnapped, you will have no clue how much effort would be required to snap it. No one in their right mind would push that hard to insert a dipstick.
 

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