Best towels to use?

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Looking for help to find the best towels to use to clean the car without scratching or making swirls. Does anyone have a good system and could recommend it to me, and where could I buy it?

Thanks,

John
 

Viper99

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Ditto...
Fieldcrest/Cannon towels are the ones to get.
Try to use only white towels as any colored towels may have traces of polyester fibers. The Fieldcrest/Cannon towels however, can be pricey (around $18-20 for the large bath size). I found a lady on ebay and got 6 large bath size white Fieldcrest/Cannon towels for $32 shipped!
 
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Zaino recommends 100% cotton Fieldcrest towels, as someone said earlier in the thread. Of course, using a 100% cotton towel is a must. But, beware of labels that say 100% cotton (even on Fieldcrest) because the binding thread along the edges may not be cotton even though the label says 100% cotton and does not mention anything about the binding.

I bought a load of Fieldcrest towels (bath, hand, washcloths) for my car a while back. All labels said 100% cotton (I checked each piece before cutting the lablels out), but after using 'em for a while I felt something stiff in one of the washcloths. Sure enough, a burn test revealed that the binding thread was polyester. (By the way, the bath and hand towles had cotton binding thread. Go figure.) Boy was I pissed. I have a few marks in the paint that you can see if you look closely in just the right light and at just the right angle...I bet the washcloth caused 'em.

Anyway, always do a burn test to a small piece whenever you buy new towels...regardless what the label says and regardless what you paid for 'em or who made 'em.

Also, as someone said, don't use fabric softener or bleach. Those products leave a residue that you can't see or feel, but that will leave streaks in the paint and, especially, the windows.

For years (ever since I've been cleaning cars as a labor of love, instead of a chore), I've always dreaded the part of the endeavor involving the windows. I'd spend what seemed like hours, I'd wipe until my arm was sore, I use two clean towels per window - the first to get it clean, then the second to try to eliminate the streaks - I tried every window cleaning product made. Yet, I could never totally eliminate the damned streaks.

Then Sal Zaino told me not to use bleach or fabric softener on my car towels. I ignored the advice and continued to futilely battle the window streaks. Don't know why I didn't believe him...total brain fade, I guess. Anyway, I was talking to the customer service department of a window cleaning product and the rep also told me about the bleach/softener problem.

Well, what the hell, I figured. Now that two differenct sources told me about the problem, I might as well see if there was anything to it. I re-washed some towels without bleach or softener and then cleaned my windows. Well, it was the next thing to a religious experience! The windows came out streak free with very little effort.

I can't believe I beat myself up all these years trying in vain to get my windows streak free. And I really can't believe that I ignored Sal's advice for so long. What a doofus I was on that point. How embarassing.

Anyway, if you are using rags that have been bleached or fabric softened, your windows have streaks in them. If you don't think so, you are wrong. Clean your windshield, point the car into the sun and you'll see 'em. Guaranteed.

I've never noticed streaks in the paint from rags treated with bleach and fabric softener, but I'll bet they are there. Of course, next time I wax my car I will use untreated towels. I bet life gets better.
 

Brian Denham

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White bath towels made by Cannon. I found them at the local sears store for about $2.50 each. They do have the polyster bindings, but you can fold them in such a way where they dont come in contact with the car. I have had no problems with this method.
 

2BADD 4U

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Use only white canon or fieldcrest towels...100% cotton and CUT the ends off where the bindings are with scissors. No scratches at all ever!!!
 

BigsViper

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Hey NVRENUFHP, If you listen to Sal regarding the bleach issue, howcum you are still using WAX!?? Zaino is the only way to go!
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by BigsViper:
Hey NVRENUFHP, If you listen to Sal regarding the bleach issue, howcum you are still using WAX!?? Zaino is the only way to go!
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<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


I use the term "wax" generically to mean the stuff that you put on the paint to make it shiney and to protect it.
 
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I have ordered towels twice over the internet from laurenslinens.com and have been happy with the product and the speed of service.They have all sizes of Canon/Fieldcrest 100% products.
 

Ulysses

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Bill,

I use the same towels from Linens and Things. Cut off the edges. If there were swirls marks to begin with and they are pretty deep, it's gonna take more than Zaino to help get rid of the swirl marks. Some people have reported good results with 3M glaze(?). You have to be careful when using polishing compounds though, too much and you could end up going through the clear coat.
 
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To conduct a burn test, cut a small piece of the towel off and burn it. Be sure to get some of the binding thread. If the stuff burns, then it's cotton. If it burns and melts or just melts, then it has polyester in it.

Polyester may burn, but it will also melt. When the sample is completely burned, rub the ashes between your fingers and feel for hard stuff. Burned cotton residue will be pretty ash like. Melted polyester residue will have small pellet like pieces.

The towels from Griots sound like a good idea. I think I'll try 'em.
 

Ron

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<FONT face="Comic Sans MS">Someone on the board recently mentioned using a leaf blower to dry the car, so I tried it last week. Worked great. Removed 99.9% of the water, zero scratches and no lint. </FONT f>
 

BS99GTS

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Well the blower works good, but I use my 5.5 HP Craftsman shop vac (rated at 150MPH blowing velocity) to blow the majority of the water off the Zaino'd car. This also easily removes all the water from around the mirrors, windows, wipers, body seams, lenses, and any crevices. Then it is easy to quickly go over the car with a 100% cotton towel to finish the drying.

Bruce

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Ron

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<FONT face="Comic Sans MS">I've tried it and it seem to work great, but get a piece of grit under the blade and you'll curse the day you bought it....</FONT f>
 

Vypr GT2

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I recall seeing another thread on this board about removing swirl marks that mentioned 3M hand glaze- I tried to search for it with no luck. Sal has posted that using 3M foam polishing swirl mark remover #39009 can work if necessary.

Can someone please clarify regarding the use of 3M hand glaze in removing swirls? Does one use the hand glaze before or after the swirl mark remover? Is it used instead of the swirl mark remover?
 

Kid97GTS

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I bought a few Fieldcrest towels that were irregular size or something online for about $28. I cut off the ends and used them for the first time 2 weeks ago. Not only was using the towels much easier than my tried and true chamois, but I got a better result (except for the little bits of fluff that stuck to the car).

I'm not too concerned right now about scratches since I have to get the Viper color sanded to remove some cracking in the clearcoat around the license plate. But after I get the paint fixed, it's leaf blower with towel touch ups all the way! I can probably pick up a sufficient leaf blower for about $60 on Yahoo!, and compared to most Viper products, this has to be the best bang for the buck - nevermind the looks I'll get from my neighbors
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Steve Miehe

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Hey Folks:

Further up in the thread there's a post from "TOURINGPRO" where he talks about a Fieldcrest/Cannon website - you can purchase 100% cotton towels over the net. Placed an order for four white bath size towels last Sunday; shipped UPS, found 'em sitting on my doorstep yesterday. That's pretty quick. Initially, followed Sal's instructions on application techinques but cheaped out on the towels. Got the circular swirl marks that we all dread......applied one coat of Z-5 today and followed up with a coat of Z-2 and then Z-6. Removed with new towels that arrived from Fieldcrest/Cannon - all swirls marks are gone. Only difference in my application procedure from a couple weeks back and today is the towels. Towels are pretty cheap too - supposedly they are irregulars but I can't see anything wrong with them. Great source for buying towels if you are short on time and want convenient delivery.
 

Matt

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Do you guys cut off the sewn/embroidered band near the bottom of the towel as well as the sewn ends or does thise decorative "stripe" not scratch the paint?

Just curious. It seems the more I cut the more the towels turn to junk. I'm thinking a bit of creative folding might be a better option?

Matt
 

jwwiii

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Viper Nation;

The best towels on this planet are made of Egyptian long staple cotton. The best make is CHRISTY of LONDON.

I used to own a fine bedding store, and learned alot about fabrics. 100% cotton towels ARE NOT created equal! Christy towels can be purchased from "the Company Store", and the model is "renaissance". You still need to cut off the trim, and you will probably pay around $40.00 for a bath sheet. These are the best quality cotton I have ever come across in a towel. There is a BIG difference. You don't get much of a cotton towel for $10 bucks. Trust me!

Jim
 

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