Big Brakes on the GTS.

[Timnineside]

As the title states I put the SRT brakes on my GTS. Courtesy of another VCA member. Love this place!

I am going for the "Blacked" out theme on the car, but kinda feeling the Red. Opinions???? On the calipers not the PAINT im not setting you guys up like that again.

If I keep the red I will be getting my fronts redone and moved to the rear.

Total install was about 1 1/2 hours. Thats just fronts. I don't have parts for the rears yet and still not very excited about chopping the rear ears off...... Soon though im sure.

Big thanks to John (KNG SNK) for some telephone support. I needed a second opinion on some brake line running, and we decided I put the calipers on the wrong side.

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-Tim

 

[MTGTS]

Leave them red. Little contrast really sets things off. I always get compliments on mine.

Chopping off the rear mounts isn't bad, just intimidating. Just follow the directions

 

[tucker]

Congrats Tim. That looks great. LEAVE THEM RED. How does it feel compared to stock?

 

[KNG SNKE]

Leave them red. Little contrast really sets things off. I always get compliments on mine.

Chopping off the rear mounts isn't bad, just intimidating. Just follow the directions

Fully agree, more intimidating then anything. Key points for cutting the ears, have 2 new metal blades and make sure the sawzall is corded. Will save you time.

On a side note they look horrible behind those wheels, you should immediately remove them and give those wheels away. I volunteer my car as a receipient. Lol.

But seriously, look damn good.

 

[Red Snake]

Keep them red. It'll make your car faster and it'll look better.

 

[KNG SNKE]

Keep them red. It'll make your car faster and it'll look better.

Aww, you had to go there didn't you.

 

[Ricketts]

I vote keep them red too.

 

[CA97GTS]

Front wheel is a 19" ?

 

[Timnineside]

Thanks guys! I love the Red the more I look at them. I was debating on Black, Yellow, or GTS Blue, but figure the Red adds a bit more sinister look and POPS!

The braking is GREAT! Could use a little more, but I am 100% satisfied dollar for dollar. (Even though I did get a steal on them when all said and done)

Can't wait for some track days next year now!

Metal Blades I DO HAVE! I will have to contact Jon B over winter to get all the other goodies. Also need to get the fronts Powdercoated and badged to match.

Wheels I will hang onto but thanks John!

And yes I did notice a bit more acceleration on take off, must have been the red. I was pulling on my buddies 08 Yellow Vette tho..........

-Tim

FYI full Mopar exhaust with Cat delete goes on next week Then Dyno, SCT tune Dyno again (assuming NO SNOW)

 

[Timnineside]

Front wheel is a 19" ?

20X10

HRE 895R with 295/25/20

 

[dave6666]

Fully agree, more intimidating then anything. Key points for cutting the ears, have 2 new metal blades and make sure the sawzall is corded. Will save you time.

+1 on the sawzall. Almost looks milled. Took about 30 minutes per side.

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[KNG SNKE]

My cut is not that clean. As I told you on the phone I pinged Dave and one other person on here for photos so there are a lot of resources on here. Someone could probably answer your question about the proportining valve.

 

[Timnineside]

My cut is not that clean. As I told you on the phone I pinged Dave and one other person on here for photos so there are a lot of resources on here. Someone could probably answer your question about the proportining valve.

Yes I apprecieate that! I need brackets, lines and looking into the parking brake as of now. I never use the parking brake but I guess the day I need it ill wish I had it.

Also need to get my old fronts powder coated. Any suggestions on where? Don't want to get ***** though.

Did a few hard brake stops and it was FUN! Did get them to Lock up which actually made me feel more comfortable because the others felt like parts would brake off before locking the fronts up.

I am in NO big hurry to get these rears done. The car will be going into storage in a few weeks so its a winter project I can take my time with.

Thanks!

 

[Timnineside]

+1 on the sawzall. Almost looks milled. Took about 30 minutes per side.

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If my cut is half as good as this I will be happy! Better clean my car up and gets pics afterwards!

-Tim

 

[Next Phase]

Keep them red... looks great!

 

[KNG SNKE]

You need to bed your pads and break everything in before you start doing hard stops, especially if you have brand new brake pads.

I sent you an email about the powder coating.

 

[SoCal Rebell]

Keep them red... looks great!

Go back to Slovenia




Bed the pads in process:

100-5 4x
80-5 4x
60-5 10x

The brakes should be smoking a little which is good, you will also experience some "green fade" this is normal your new pads are now bedded. DO NOT come to a full stop and drive around for about 5 miles for them to cool.



.

 

[NI-KA]

Glad to see you are enjoying the brakes.

 

[KNG SNKE]

Bed the pads in process:

100-5 4x
80-5 4x
60-5 10x

The brakes should be smoking a little which is good, you will also experience some "green fade" this is normal your new pads are now bedded. DO NOT come to a full stop and drive around for about 5 miles for them to cool.



.
[/B]

This is very important.

 

[AZTVR]

Bed the pads in process:

100-5 4x
80-5 4x
60-5 10x

The brakes should be smoking a little which is good, you will also experience some "green fade" this is normal your new pads are now bedded. DO NOT come to a full stop and drive around for about 5 miles for them to cool.

In that order, or the opposite order? I've read: lowest top speed and then higher and higher ? (I'm no expert for sure and don't know whether it would matter.) I also read to start with some 45- 0 stops to start getting the rotors warmed up before really pouring heat into them.

 

[SoCal Rebell]

In that order, or the opposite order? I've read: lowest top speed and then higher and higher ? (I'm no expert for sure and don't know whether it would matter.) I also read to start with some 45- 0 stops to start getting the rotors warmed up before really pouring heat into them.

I've been tracking for a dozen years in a Gen II with Stoptech brakes and Brakeman 3 pads, I have never hear of the slow to start procedure on thing, what I am sure of is you NEVER stop completely during the process of bedding, the reason behind this is you leave pad material on the rotor and that can be bad during hard braking. Same principal as never set your parking brake after a track session, hence the slowing to 5 mph rather then 0 mph. I think the reason for the fast start is to heat the rotors and pads up fast then the slower runs allow you to coat the rotor with an even amount of pad material, hence the "green fade" and smoking.

 

[AZTVR]

I've been tracking for a dozen years in a Gen II with Stoptech brakes and Brakeman 3 pads, I have never hear of the slow to start procedure on thing, what I am sure of is you NEVER stop completely during the process of bedding, the reason behind this is you leave pad material on the rotor and that can be bad during hard braking. Same principal as never set your parking brake after a track session, hence the slowing to 5 mph rather then 0 mph. I think the reason for the fast start is to heat the rotors and pads up fast then the slower runs allow you to coat the rotor with an even amount of pad material, hence the "green fade" and smoking.

Thanks. I definitely defer to your experience. No question there !

 

[Timnineside]

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Stole the wifes camera for a quick pic.

Thanks for the break in info. Never heard of such a thing!

Will do that tomorrow or asap if the dang rain stops!

 

[Catwood]

From Hawk website regarding race pads"


http://www.hawkperformance.com/motorsports/faq.php



Brake pad break-in procedure.

1. After reaching medium speed engage brake pedal to slow car without coming to a complete stop. Release pedal quickly and do not drag brakes. Repeat four or five times.
2. At higher speeds engage brake pedal to slow car without coming to a complete stop. Release pedal quickly and do not drag brakes. Repeat five times.
3. At or near race speed engage brake pedal to slow car without coming to a complete stop. Release pedal quickly and do not drag brakes. Repeat three times. Allow a few seconds between brake engagements while car is in motion.
4. Do not hold brake pedal. Park car for approximately 20 minutes or until brake rotors are completely cool to the touch.
5. If during the above steps the brake pedal becomes soft or brake fade is noticed, park the car immediately for approximately 20 minutes. Do not hold brake pedal.

Important reminders:

• Do not attempt to use badly worn or damaged rotors with new brake pads.
• Do not drag brakes while car is moving during break-in procedure.
• Do not engage pedal while car is stopped at any time following the break-in procedure.
• Upon completing the procedure, allow the brake system to completely cool before racing.
• Applying the pedal a few times before the start of the race will allow the brake pads to heat up before attempting to reach race speeds.
• Clean a used rotor surface with fine sand paper or steel wool, rinse with water, dry and install before bedding new pads.
• Some forms of racing don't allow time for the proper break-in procedure to be performed. However, it is still very important to attempt to perform at least the core of the procedure: slow heat build up and complete cool down.