Can anything be done about the front passenger brake locking up

[vegasviper]

It locks up first. Any solution?

 

[Alternative]

No easy fix, but you can get a set of Tom's modified rear calipers. I've heard very good results, and I plan on getting this mod in the future.

http://vca2.viperclub.org/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB2&Number=471829&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1

Or, you can get one of the big brake kits...

 

[Ulysses]

Bites, doesn't it? Someone once told me the way to fix it is don't lock up the fronts. Well... that didn't work too well. I think Alternative has the right idea, improve the braking by trying some of Tom's rear calipers.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

I have two 40mm sets available right now. Give me an email (anyone, of course) and I will send you a PDF file that describes the problem, the "fix" and how easy it is to install.

And thanks for the kind words, Alternative and Ulysses.

 

[ViperRay]

I would check the line pressures in the front to see if they are equal first using something like the pressure gauge I got from Stainless Steel Brakes

http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/products/Accessories/

At least that would tell you where to begin to focus. I also have Tom's rear brake upgrade (great mod!) however that won't solve your lateral problem as I interpret your post.

 

[Janni]

The fronts lock up before the rears - it's a safety thing - it's what you want. The passenger front is lighter than the driver front tire, so.... it'll be the first of the 2 to lock up.

Tom's rear caliper mod will DELAY the point of lockup by producing more rear brake. But the fronts will still lock up first - just later.

Unless you corner weight the car to equalize the front weights (taking in to consideration your weight IN the car) then you will always get right front lockup first. In all actuality, for maximum benefit - anyone doing Tom's caliper mod should cornerweight the car. Hmmmm.... she says..... we're doing an ACR this weekend..... Wonder if we should set up the scales.....

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

Some backyard experience: The battery and the driver on the left pretty much account for the extra left side weight. My '94 right front was lighter by about 90 pounds (with me included.) Before I had adjustable sleeves on the shocks, I had shaved the upper spring seats to lower the car. A little measuring and Kentucky windage, and if the right rear shock spring seat was cut an additional 0.25" vs. the left rear (wedge to add weight to LR and RF), you dial out a big chunk of the right side tire sliding. And since you'd have the rear end of the car up (you might be putting on new brakes?) you're right there anyway. Janni's ride height tuning can provide another data point for how much different left to right should be.

Not to toot my capitalistic horn, but the rear brake swap will be a big change and the corner weight is a tuning change (which will be affected by carrying passengers.) And by all means, if there's something wrong, it needs to be fixed.

Note: depending on the use of the OEM proportioning valve or not, with the 40mm rears, the fronts will lock either "just barely before" to "really close to the same time" as the rears. Things like road surface, turning, tires, brake pads, etc, will become bigger factors in deciding.

Hmmm... he says. Maybe an appropriately cut down spring seat would make another option to improving Viper braking!

 

[1TONY1]

My car works well at the autocross using a more aggressive pad on the rear (Brakeman 3's) and EBC greens on the front. There is also some practice/learning in not locking up the brakes. You can't just jam them down. A slightly more expensive mod is to upgrade to an antilock brake car