Changing Clutch Fluid (2 options)

Shandon

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Well since I cann't drive the car Im doing some general maintenance on it. Anyway I need to change the clutch fluid (its looking pretty dark). I could take the first approach 1. Clean the resivior and then pump clutch repeating until fluid looks clear or do a full flush? The first would be the easiest but wondered what opinions on this are (does that realy get the fluid back to spec)? Secondly has anyone used the "Mityvac" system for clutch and brake bleeding? I might buy one but thought Id check here first.

Thanks
 

dave6666

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I use Mityvac equipment for 1 man hydraulic fluid changes on all of my vehicles. **** out the old while pulling in the new. Never any problems doing it that way although some will claim you **** in air. I say, from where? Works great and you don't need a helper.
 

slaughterj

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Well, in my 98, I did only reservoir replacements in a 28k miles stretch between tech bleeds, and the tech was very impressed with how clean the fluid was when bled with just that little done.
 

ROCKET62

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I vote for just changing the reservoir. It can be a real pain to bleed the clutch if you get air in the system. I also use the "turkey baster" method to change out the brake fluid while I'm at it. Probably not as effective as a complete fush, but it's gotta be better than doing nothing at all.
 

Viper X

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Mity Vac works well and is worth the money if you have to bleed your clutch fluid line.

I change the clutch fluid reservoir fluid, power steering reservoir fluid and brake fluid reservoir pretty regularly. Seems to help keep the fluids cleaner and more effective longer.

Dan
 

bluesrt

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if ur gona replace all the fluid,use motul fluid,**** the resivior and install moyul,crack the bleeder underside and let it gravity bleed,motul does not breakdown as easy,therefor wont get dirty as easy cause it will take a harder punch so to speak.
 

AZTVR

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if ur gona replace all the fluid,use motul fluid,**** the resivior and install moyul,crack the bleeder underside and let it gravity bleed,motul does not breakdown as easy,therefor wont get dirty as easy cause it will take a harder punch so to speak.

Which Motul product are you referring to? I thought that Motul RBF 600 was typically more hygroscopic than other more common off the shelf brake fluids and was something that should be changed fairly often. Perhaps that characteristic is not an issue in the clutch system?
 

adg44

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Which Motul product are you referring to? I thought that Motul RBF 600 was typically more hygroscopic than other more common off the shelf brake fluids and was something that should be changed fairly often. Perhaps that characteristic is not an issue in the clutch system?


You are correct. RBF600 is more hygroscopic than other fluids, since it's a race fluid and it supposed to be changed frequently. It has an amazingly high boiling point though.

I used Motul 5.1 in my last car, and it was great. It's DOT 5.1 (backwards compatible with DOT 3/4), and it designed for ABS systems.

I have some ATE Super Dot 4 fluid which I am going to use when I doe the clutch and brakes in the Viper.

- Anthony
 
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Shandon

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Yea I changed the brake and clutch fluid to Motul 600 a couple years ago and have kept it that way ever since. Great boiling point characteristics! Anyway thanks all for the insight!
 
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