Cheap Mobil 1 0w40
- Thread starter nedasrt
- Start date
mad0953
Enthusiast
That's what I have found too. I bought my last 2 cases through AutoBarn last Summer for about $6 a qt. and I see the price is over $7 now. Good luck.
Martin
Enthusiast
I'm sure Tom will chime in, but I'll throw this out there anyhow. Unless you're driving in the arctic, you can probably get away with 10w/40 just fine. If you want to get closer to the 0w/40 rating, there are synthetic 5w/40 diesel oils out there that will do a great job. I personally use Red Line 10w/40 and my engine hasn't fallen apart yet - but it is a '97, and engine technology has changed a lot since then 
I haven't seen it really cheap either. My Mercedes CLs500 requires it and I think I get it for $7 bucks.
viperdrummer
Enthusiast
I did that at walmart with 12 gauge shotgun shells. I was going to shoot clays and knew I was running low on re loads so I decided to run through the Walmarts. Grabbed a case of shells ran to the counter and it rang up as one box. I immediately went to the truck came back and bought 3 more. When I got to the shoot I had the guys run back over and buy all they had. Needless to say it was in my wife’s hometown, population less than 5000 and well someone knew someone so we all basically got busted.
Fast Viper
Enthusiast
I found 0w-40 at walmart a few times for 6 dollars a quart.
V
Venomiss
Guest
How soon do you need it? We spoke with a manager at Walmart and he ordered it for us-took a while but it was worth it. Never hurts to ask.
Sams?
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Black Mamba 47
Enthusiast
Costco had it for awhile!
Tom F&L GoR
Enthusiast
Don't get so hung up on the viscosity grade. A 0W-40 is a desirable grade, but the reason OEMs specify it is due to the additive package and it's performance level. Look at the label and notice it carries ACEA and perhaps diesel claims (because in Europe many passenger cars are diesel.) Any alternative that has the same or better claims is fine. A 5W-40 or 10W-40 would be OK; the only difference is that the safe cold starting temperature is 5C or 10C higher (raises safe starting temperature to -30C or -25C respectively.) I don't think anyone cares about that nor the miniscule fuel economy difference.
I know this is a stretch for most of you, but I use a 15W-40 mineral diesel oil. At 15W-xx, it's fine down to -20C; it's still a xxW-40, and has 2X the performance chemicals as a passenger car oil (and still 1.5X the additives as the Euro-oils.) It's less expensive, always available, etc, etc. You have to get over thinking "synthetic" means "better" because all it means is the family of base oil the additives are put into.
I know this is a stretch for most of you, but I use a 15W-40 mineral diesel oil. At 15W-xx, it's fine down to -20C; it's still a xxW-40, and has 2X the performance chemicals as a passenger car oil (and still 1.5X the additives as the Euro-oils.) It's less expensive, always available, etc, etc. You have to get over thinking "synthetic" means "better" because all it means is the family of base oil the additives are put into.
michaelnouri
Enthusiast
if you are hard up, dodge has a part number on it and they will get it for you. oreily's will special order it if they are out of stock on it or don't carry it in your market.
here is the official mopar part number, if you want to order it via your dodge parts counter.
5127394aa $10.25 retail $0.00 $7.07 dealer cost
OIL 0W40
here is the official mopar part number, if you want to order it via your dodge parts counter.
5127394aa $10.25 retail $0.00 $7.07 dealer cost
OIL 0W40
My E55 uses this oil as well, and guess what? You'll never find it at Wal-Mart in the jugs... (they don't hire marketing dummies at Mobil 1) It's all marketing.
Now my Benz Dealer tells me there is this new (green top) stuff. 5w-40 with "advanced" emissions additive?? Guess what??? It's ONLY avail. at the Benz dealer for the bargain price of $9.00 a quart...
Tom, so 15w40 is safe to use?? how about a 10/w30???
Now my Benz Dealer tells me there is this new (green top) stuff. 5w-40 with "advanced" emissions additive?? Guess what??? It's ONLY avail. at the Benz dealer for the bargain price of $9.00 a quart...
Tom, so 15w40 is safe to use?? how about a 10/w30???
mjorgensen Woodhouse
Enthusiast
The Mopar part number for the 0-40 changed to an AB and is no longer a Mobil1 product FWIW.
Martin
Enthusiast
Interesting - who makes the new oil?
Tom F&L GoR
Enthusiast
You won't find a diesel 10W30. In Florida a 15W-40 will be bulletproof. If you want to stay closer to OEM, look for another 5W-40 that also has European ACEA performance - it's all on the back of the bottle with the API information. There should be many choices.
mjorgensen Woodhouse
Enthusiast
I believe it was Quaker State
Tom F&L GoR
Enthusiast
Quaker State (marketing name) = Pennzoil (marketing name) = Shell (technology center)
Martin
Enthusiast
Mark and Tom - here's an oil related break-in question for you. What do you think about using one of the break-in additives? I run Red Line in my GTS, and I notice they have a break-in additive that's supposed to be appropriate for engines that have synthetic as their first-fill. Hopefully my ACR is going to be built by summertime, and it comes with a synthetic (Mobil or Quaker or whatever) factory fill. What I typically do is change the oil after 200 or 300 miles, and I was wondering if it might make sense to put the break-in additive in when I take delivery and leave it in there for the first few hundred miles to help seat the rings, etc. Any thoughts, or should I just drive it and change the oil like I've always done in the past?
mjorgensen Woodhouse
Enthusiast
What I did on mine was just run the Mobil1 for the first 700 miles and then change it for new. I also changed the Quaifes fluid at the same time. After a couple dozen heat cycles on the engine and diff it should be mostly run in. It will loosen up a bit more for about 2K, but I would not put Redline in anything I own, that's just my opinion though.
TexasSnake
Enthusiast
TexasSnake
Enthusiast
More humor in the thread...driving a Viper and looking to save a buck or two on oil...
lagalaxy13
Viper Owner
My Super Walmart has it. I bought all the gallon jugs they had, and they have not replaced them yeat 4 weeks later. But they have penty of quarts.
Tom F&L GoR
Enthusiast
The break-in additives should be simple, high doses of zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP) which is the antiwear additive that the OEMs claim harms the catalyst (after 100,000 miles). Using such an additive would be fine, and frankly is a necessity in a flat tappet, high lift cam build-up. It is not required in an engine with roller lifters, which is why OEMs can recommend low ZDDP oils in new engines.
Some cam manufacturers use a high dose of a molybdenum friction modifier instead. This is technically incorrect, since rather than assist break-in and smooth out parts than come in contact, it is artificially delaying break-in until you remove the friction modifier with the oil change. Read the label. Phosphorus good. Moly bad. Calcium, boron, magnesium OK but not preferred.
I'm not entirely convinced the average break-in additive is a good product. I would much, much rather see you put diesel oil in it. Diesel oil has more ZDDP than passenger car oil.
There is no reason synthetics should have different break-in characteristics than a mineral oil. Corvette, Viper, Cosworth, AMG, etc, etc, fill with synthetic and off they go. The myth of using mineral (or not synthetic) came from using non-detergent (non additive!) oils. These API SA or SB oils are only available in mineral oil, but people associated break-in with mineral base oil and forgot that the oil also had no additive in it.
Martin, I would give you two choices. (1) Change immediately to the 5W40 or 15W40 diesel oil and leave it in for 5000 miles, or (2) drive it for a few hundred miles, with a few trips long enough (hour) to ensure the oil got up to oil thermostat temperature, drain it (and save it for your lawnmower.) The heat issue is because ZDDP needs higher temperatures (when the oil gets thinner) to activate and begin the protection function.
Look at the tens of millions (fewer now) of engines built annually that just drive and go 5000 miles - they aren't sitting and smoking on the side of the road and they last longer than most Vipers ever see on their odometer. (Not picking on you at all, just remembering the oil company joke that cars are driven to the junkyard these days...)
adg44
Enthusiast
Yup, it's Pennzoil now.
Who remembers how many people yelled at me when I said manufacturers get in bed with whomever gives them the best deal? Many people here were expecting my engine to fall apart since I didn't use Mobil1 on my last oil change.
I'm using Valvoline SynPower 10w30 which I picked up in the 5 quart bottle at Walmart for $19. In another 1,000 miles I am sampling the oil and having it analyzed, and once that is done I will post up the results. Then you can compare it to the Mobil1 analysis from before, and you can see which is better.
For what it's worth, I heard from my sources that Mobil1 is going to start using a group IV base stock again and better additives, so once I hear that has actually happened, then I may give Mobil1 a try again. But in the mean time there is no point to spend the extra money on it.
- Anthony
