Checking brake pad wear on Gen IV Viper . . .

[rcl4668]

I was informed during the technical inspection before a driving school that the pads on my 2008 Viper were at about 40%, that the pads would last the driving school but should probably be replaced afterwards. I did a visual check and there seems to be pad material left (about 5-6 mms) but I have no idea if this is below 50% of pad thickness. (Many driving schools require at least 50% pad thickness.)

So silly question but is there a certain thickness to the stock pads so I can estimate myself or should I just go with the assessment of the tech inspector and get the pads changed?

Thanks for your help.

/Rich

 

[Y2K10 SRT#39]

Rich-
Get to JonB and buy an extra set of pads. If you keep doing the driving schools and sooner or later you will need them anyway!

PBR

 

[V10 ICBM]

Pad question for PF 01's for gen III brakes - where and how much should one expect to pay?

 

[JonB]

I was informed during the technical inspection before a driving school that the pads on my 2008 Viper were at about 40%, that the pads would last the driving school but should probably be replaced afterwards. I did a visual check and there seems to be pad material left (about 5-6 mms) but I have no idea if this is below 50% of pad thickness. (Many driving schools require at least 50% pad thickness.)

So silly question but is there a certain thickness to the stock pads so I can estimate myself or should I just go with the assessment of the tech inspector and get the pads changed?

Thanks for your help. /Rich

Reminder: 100% pad thickness can accomodate track heat. As the mass diminishes, the heat-handling is NOT proportional! Ie 50% pad mass handles about 25% the heat of 100% pads, and trnsfers this heat to pistons/boots/calipers/fluid.

A 100% new pad is 12mm
The warning-bar is at 3mm
6mm = 50%, but 25% is useful life.

Fresh SPARE Pads in your track-bag? PRICELESS !

 

[JonB]

Pad question for PF 01's for gen III brakes - where and how much should one expect to pay?

Rich-
Get to JonB and buy an extra set of pads. If you keep doing the driving schools and sooner or later you will need them anyway! PBR

You can get them from your friendly VCA VENDORS who help bring you this site. Please? {Thanks PBR}

PFC-01s are not very rotor friendly, so their price and cost-per-mile are the highest. The pads are in the <$300 range, ..........................................whereas Mintex and/or Brakeman are about $50 less per set for GREAT pads

 

[GR8_ASP]

I have been very happy with Brakeman 3 pads up front. I started with them in the rear as well but switched back to stock for better feel and proportioning in case (i.e. when) the ABS system fails(ed).

Rotor wear has been very reasonable, as has been brake life.

 

[Leslie]

What JonB said! It's wild, that last 50% of the pad goes WAY fast, much quicker than the FIRST 50% did.

I have a pretty good idea based on my driving, # of sessions, the track, etc how much I have left before I even check them.

If I have 60% left starting of the wknd, I am good to go but I still bring a slightly used set with me in case I gotta little too crazy.

 

[JonB]

LATE RECALL
HEY ! I just remembered, I was your tech inspector 3 weeks ago at PIR ! Your FRONT pads were fat, at 60%+ that event. I did not check the rears....dumb.

You burn up 20% per event on OE pads as fast as you were going.... I think Doris and I radar-gunned you at 135, down to 35-37 for the chicane entry?

You can save all your OEs for rear spares. Buy new pads ! And we now have Titanium backing plates to STOP a lot of heat transfer to seals and boots abnd pistons

 

[SCLSSRT10]

Rich,

I agree completely with JonB. Having an extra set of pads with you for the weekend is priceless. I usually go through one set per weekend on the front and the rears "might" last two weekends. I keep at least two set of fronts and one rear in the trailer all the time, just in case I need them or a fellow track rat needs them. If you are doing a lot of track days go with the Mintex on the front and Brakeman 3's on the rear. But be aware when you make the switch you might want to cut the rotors first as you will have stock compound inbedded in the rotors and making the switch without cutting rotors might give you a pulsating pedal making you think you have warped the rotors. That happens because ot the different compunds from each pad and their different coeffiecents of friction. Just a suggestion as I have seen it happen on club members cars at track events. Also don't forget that race pads like Mintex don't really start to work well until they get warmed up, that is to say that they will be harder on your rotors during "street driving" and they might not work as well because they never get really hot enough on the street to work at their best.

Steve

 

[JonB]

Rich,

I agree completely with JonB. Having an extra set of pads with you for the weekend is priceless. I usually go through one set per weekend on the front and the rears "might" last two weekends. I keep at least two set of fronts and one rear in the trailer all the time, just in case I need them or a fellow track rat needs them. If you are doing a lot of track days go with the Mintex on the front and Brakeman 3's on the rear. But be aware when you make the switch you might want to cut the rotors first as you will have stock compound inbedded in the rotors and making the switch without cutting rotors might give you a pulsating pedal making you think you have warped the rotors. That happens because ot the different compunds from each pad and their different coeffiecents of friction. Just a suggestion as I have seen it happen on club members cars at track events. Also don't forget that race pads like Mintex don't really start to work well until they get warmed up, that is to say that they will be harder on your rotors during "street driving" and they might not work as well because they never get really hot enough on the street to work at their best. Steve...

I have Highlighted Steves EXCELLENT PS, and want to add that this is not unique to Mintex! ANY TIME you change compounds on a used rotor you can experience this 'grabbing-pulsing' til the new pads bed to old rotors and wear off the residual glaze. So Turn/Cut the old rotors with different new pads, or "deal with it" for a while......

 

[Viper X]

Don't usually disagree with JonB but I've used both PFC-01's and Mintex race pads. I've found PFC-01's to be just as rotor friendly as the Mintex pads (on Stoptech ACR type slotted rotors) and they seem to stop me better and handle the heat better in extended run sessions - IMHO.

PFC-01's work better on the street too - I run them on my 09 ACR and ran them on my 01 ACR. Both pads are pretty "dirty" as far as brake dust goes.

Also, using stock pads for any serious track work will cost you as they wear out pretty quickly for faster drivers, especially when using Stoptech slotted (ACR) type rotors.

Dan

 

[JonB]

No disagreemenet really....To clarify...... I said that PFC-01 are less friendly than OE pads Rich has, or Brakeman 3. Mintex and PFC are the same: in that BOTH are harder on rotors than OE or Brakeman...but BM or Mitex costs about $50 less per set than PFC.

 

[rcl4668]

Update: Ordered front and rear Brakeman 3 pads from Jon B on Wednesday and received them next day (Thanks again Jon). Even though Jon estimated my front pads at 60% that was two driving schools ago so it's time to install the new pads.

In terms of install and use of the Brakeman pads, I assume from the above posts that I just need to bed the new pads with the rotors. I have the ACR/Stoptech 2-piece rotors and the Stoptech instructions recommend braking hard from 80 to 10 mph ten times, cooling off the brakes (without braking) for 5 minutes and then repeating the cycle of 10. Is this procedure the same with the Brakeman 3 pads?

Thanks.

/Rich

 

[FastZilla]

Where do EBC pads fall into this mix (stoping, fade, rotor wear, etc.)?