Clicking noise from drive train when taking off from a stop

[SneakyPete13]

I have a 94 RT/10 that I got 2 years ago and am loving it. There's a weird loud clicking (3-4 clicks) that typically happens only when taking off in stop and go traffic. I usually never hear it after taking off from a cold start. And it is intermittent, but always only comes after taking off from a complete stop. Any previous experience or things to try out would be welcome. The sound seems to come from the middle of the car (at least as I hear when driving)

When I got it, I got all the fluids replaced at a reasonably reputable shop in the area, except the diff. They didn't want to do the diff since it has to be sucked out and refilled. Not sure if the diff itself has ever had its "forever" oil changed. Other than that all drive train maintenance should be OK. I'm hoping to do the diff fluid replacement myself one of these days. Just haven't had the courage to wrench on it myself yet.

 

[daveg]

First thing to look at is U joints.

 

[99RT10GTS]

U-joints. My guess is the outer Driver's side. Most common failure point

 

[SneakyPete13]

Thank you both very much. Much appreciated.

 

[Dan Cragin]

The issue is the splines in the rear bearing hubs. They become worn and make a cracking noise on takeoff.
Dodge had a service notice at one time to replace the rear wheel bearings.

If the rear bearings are in good shape, you can just swap the left and right bearings. This allows the
splines to load on the opposite side where this is no wear. No more noise.

 

[SneakyPete13]

Thank you Dan. Taking this to a shop for the job. Don't think I am up to this level for doing it myself unfortunately. If I were to replace the bearings, is it a complicated job with specialty parts?

 

[Goggles Pizano]

Thank you Dan. Taking this to a shop for the job. Don't think I am up to this level for doing it myself unfortunately. If I were to replace the bearings, is it a complicated job with specialty parts?

You replace the whole hub. And no.

 

[Dan Cragin]

Replacing the bearings is not hard, but its critical that you torque the rear bearings correctly at the axle nut.
Only use premium bearings. They make some really cheap ones that don't last. On a Gen 1 with under 50k miles that has not
been tracked, with no wheel play or excessive grease leaking from the bearing, should be fine. Just swap right to left to fix the
noise.

The noise is bothersome, but is not a safety issue.

 

[SneakyPete13]

Thank you so much. Got an appointment in two weeks to get this done. Will report back how it goes.

 

[daveg]

Let us Know what Bearing you go with (if you replace them), looks like Timken's are getter harder to get.

 

[blairkent]

Since your diff fluid hasn’t been changed in a long time (or possibly ever), worn carrier or Rolling Mill Bearing inside the diff could be making noise. If they’re dry or worn, they might make a clicking or clunking noise when torque is applied. Change the differential fluid ASAP. It requires 75W-140 synthetic gear oil and a friction modifier (if you have the limited-slip differential). Since it has to be suctioned out, you’ll need a fluid transfer pump.

 

[Walter Clark]

Thank you so much. Got an appointment in two weeks to get this done. Will report back how it goes.

I am at the same point. The same clicking. I am also starting to notice a slight metallic singing when driving around left hand curves after everything has warmed up that sounds like it may be from the front left. Right now Timken and Moog dont seem to be available. OEM is crazy expensive.

So, what did you end up having done? Did it work out? What brand bearing assemblies did you use?

As a related aside...anyone find a non-premium brand of these that is not junk? There are at least a dozen "brands" of Chinese made 513109 (Moog and Timken model number) replacements that are widely available for like $50-$150 but its impossible to tell if any of them is any better (or worse) than any other from my web searches.

My Viper is only driven occasionally, but when it is its typically on winding smooth mountain roads at moderate (under 50MPH) speeds.

 

[SneakyPete13]

I am at the same point. The same clicking. I am also starting to notice a slight metallic singing when driving around left hand curves after everything has warmed up that sounds like it may be from the front left. Right now Timken and Moog dont seem to be available. OEM is crazy expensive.

So, what did you end up having done? Did it work out? What brand bearing assemblies did you use?

As a related aside...anyone find a non-premium brand of these that is not junk? There are at least a dozen "brands" of Chinese made 513109 (Moog and Timken model number) replacements that are widely available for like $50-$150 but its impossible to tell if any of them is any better (or worse) than any other from my web searches.

My Viper is only driven occasionally, but when it is its typically on winding smooth mountain roads at moderate (under 50MPH) speeds.

Probably won't be a satisfactory answer for you. Ended up not fixing it. I delayed too much on the single Timken unit that was available at Rock Auto for a very reasonable price at the time, and ended up missing it. Then seeing the other substandard stuff, didn't want to put them on the car.

Still hear the sound occasionally, and typically always when taking a sharp curve as you said. Trusting Dan's advice that it doesn't hurt anything. When Timken's do get available, I should do the replacement.

 

[SneakyPete13]

Also I did the diff fluid replacement myself. Didn't fix the issue, but definitely good to know that the car at least has fresh fluids all around.

 

[Walter Clark]

Given the commment Dan made about the spines getting worn and causing this I tried something. I added about 1/8 turn to each rear axle stub nut. The spec torque is 190 ftlb and I dont even have a wrench that reads past 180 so I didnt try backing them off and re-torquing them. They looked to be untouched from new, being as how the black paint on the cotter pin and spindle nut retainer look new and original.

I have driven it twice - over an hour each time and that noise is gone. The added clamping of the axle stub to the hub must be keeping the worn splines from rotating back and forth under the loads of acceleration and throttle lift.

As it has probably been 32 years since those were put in place it wouldnt surprise me to find that the clamping force originally provided has decreased a lot over that time. Metals under load to relax given enough time and heat cycles (although the amount of heat here is probably not enough to do much to the metals used).

 

[GTS Dean]

Might be worn hub bearings since tightening the preload nut helped it go away.