Clutch hydraulics system doesn't function when car freezes.

[thebigsnake]

The clutch hydraulic system stops working when my 00 ACR freezes.
It's ok after the engine warms things up above freezing after a few minutes of idling.
Anybody else experience this problem?

 

[dave6666]

Anybody else experience this problem?

Not in Texas!

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

The working fluid is brake fluid, which does attract water, but it seems pretty extreme to have enough to freeze.

If it froze in the reservoir, you wouldn't notice.
If it froze in the line to the slave, the pedal would not go down.
If it froze in the slave, the entering fluid would push the ice lump to disengage the clutch, but maybe not allow it to reengage.

Can you describe it some more?

 

[Viper Wizard]

Try changing the fluid and go with DOT4 HD B/fluid.

 

[thebigsnake]

Thanks for chiming in Chuck.
When I bought this Florida car four years ago, the fluid in the clutch reservoir was black.
Unlike on English roadsters, I couldn't even find the clutch slave cylinder. So, I had been sort of replacing the master cylinder fluid with fresh and hoping for the best.
I guess I'll read that big orange service manual again, and again.
Even though this has been a prevalent problem every winter, I realize now there's probably water in the system somewhere.

What happens is when it's cold the clutch works on the first pedal stroke, then no more clutch action on subsequent pushes.
I had to advance the car forward by crancking the starter in first to get the car in my heated garage last time.

How can I access the clutch slave and bleed the system?

 

[dave6666]

Car has to go up in the air high enough to at least lay underneath. My ramps put 10" under the tires which is plenty.

The bleeder is on the side of the transmission drivers side where the bell housing meets the tranny itself. Right above where the hydraulic hose goes in sticks out the bleeder port. 7/16" wrench turns it.

I vacuum bled mine. I have a MityVac air powered system. Just hooked the hose up to the center of the bleed port using one of the pointed adapters you get with the unit, open the bleeder port a tad, and add fluid to the reservoir up top as it pulls fluid through. Just make sure not to run the reservoir dry or you pull in air.

Given the condition of your fluid, I would cycle through a large jug (quart?) of fluid, even though a small one would do the trick.

 

[dave6666]

Here's my vac bleeder and a pic of the bell housing.

The red arrow points to the bleeder and the yellow the hose to the slave from the clutch master.

I'm laying on my back with the car on ramps and a camera in my face, so there is plenty of room to work.

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[RAYSIR]

Try changing the fluid and go with DOT4 HD B/fluid.

Like Chuck says!! Sounds like moisture.

Brake fluid attracts moisture and that is why they recommend flushing it about every 3 years. It isn't a useage thing but a time problem. Dry climate ares with low humidity don't have the problem as bad with brake fluid and clutch fluid rusting the internal parts.
I just flushed my clutch before storage and the way I do it is to **** out the reservoir with a baister and then fill with new fluid. Open the bleeder on the side of the bell housing and let it gravity bleed until clear fluid is running out. I have bled the brakes by gravity (only discs) for years. It takes longer but works great. Just make sure the bleed screw is at the top.

 

[thebigsnake]

Thanks alot guys for the valueble input. I'm printing this and will try it as soon as I get the chance.
Much appreciated.


Jerry.