Cracks in the hood

[Stupid Weezel]

Two small cracks in the hood on my '94 RT-10. Both about 1" across and run parallel to the windshield. Most likely caused by the hood being misaligned when closed. Are they repairable?

 

[dave6666]

Pics would be good, but shooting from the hip here, that's at the opposite end of the "strength matters" part.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

Could be old paint. Mine has lots of cracks, worm trails, and clearcoat lifting. Over the engine?

 

[Steve-Indy]

Common problem in 94 and 95 Vipers...much posted here on the process, filler used before paint process. That aside, there is also a risk in causing more damage toward the front of the hood if the improper technique is used to close the hood. Again, a search will reveal much discussion and an illustration or two. Unfortunaty, a factory furnished VHS tape (like the one that came with either our 96 R/T 10 or 97 GTS...or both) that demonstrated the hood closing technique...which many regarded as a less-than-ideal placement of the hands (certainly in my opinion... as well as others) which may not have helped the situation.
DO NOT close the hood by placing your hands on the the narrow area the very front...place the hands further to the rear where the hood widens... over what appears to be a hood crossbrace when viewed from the engine side. Years ago (late 1990's to early 2000's), Dodge "fixed" a bunch of these Gen I hoods under owner pressure.

 

[Phil Lee 94 red RT]

i had cracks in my hood for years. just couldn't stand it any longer, so i took it in for repair earlier this year. After sanding paint they found a ton of body filler from the factory. Doing some reseach i discovered that the early hood molds were not the best and many hoods had inprefections. The filler was used to fix this. The crack are caused by the filler.

 

[costanZo]

Common problem in 94 and 95 Vipers...much posted here on the process, filler used before paint process. That aside, there is also a risk in causing more damage toward the front of the hood if the improper technique is used to close the hood. Again, a search will reveal much discussion and an illustration or two. Unfortunaty, a factory furnished VHS tape (like the one that came with either our 96 R/T 10 or 97 GTS...or both) that demonstrated the hood closing technique...which many regarded as a less-than-ideal placement of the hands (certainly in my opinion... as well as others) which may not have helped the situation.
DO NOT close the hood by placing your hands on the the narrow area the very front...place the hands further to the rear where the hood widens... over what appears to be a hood crossbrace when viewed from the engine side. Years ago (late 1990's to early 2000's), Dodge "fixed" a bunch of these Gen I hoods under owner pressure.

Can someone please post pics?? I wanna make sure I've been closing and opening my hood correctly....

 

[RobZilla]

When opening lift from the center right beneath the windshield as opposed to just grabbing one side by the side mirror. If you have two people each can lift from the side mirrors; just dont lift from one side or the hood gets stressed.

When closing use two hands, open palms, and press from ABOVE the air duct!

 

[costanZo]

When opening lift from the center right beneath the windshield as opposed to just grabbing one side by the side mirror. If you have two people each can lift from the side mirrors; just dont lift from one side or the hood gets stressed.

When closing use two hands, open palms, and press from ABOVE the air duct!

That's what I do

However, there have been sometimes I can remember when I've opened the hood by holding from one side on the fender towards the mirror, but lifted it slowly... But, most of the time and pretty much all the time I always have one hand as far in the middle as i can, usually close to the stripe or right on the stripe and the other hand on the fender towards the top near the mirror.

When closing, i lower the hood the same way I lift it, until it's positioned with each side fitting within the latch on each side sill. I then go around to the front putting two hands, open palms above the air duct by about 3-4inches and start pushing slowly, but then slam shut, since if you don't push hard, the hood won't completely shut. Does this process sound accurate to you?

Are all cracks completely noticeable? My hood seems fine, doesn't seem warped or anything, although one thing I have noticed on my car and a few other Vipers, is that below the fender area which is part of the hood.. you can slide your hand under as if you were moving little pebbles or debris that gets caught in there.. one side is higher then the other. I figured since the car is hand built, that is normal for one gap under where the Viper logo is where the fender meets the side sill to be higher on one side then the other? I'm not sure if I explained that correctly without being confusing, but if anyone understands what I'm talking about let me know

 

[sdaddy]

Two small cracks in the hood on my '94 RT-10. Both about 1" across and run parallel to the windshield. Most likely caused by the hood being misaligned when closed. Are they repairable?

Yes, but why bother. Most likely there will be more as time goes on. Most owners would rather have original paint with minor cracks than a hood repaint.

 

[Asp Man]

Yes, but why bother. Most likely there will be more as time goes on. Most owners would rather have original paint with minor cracks than a hood repaint.

+1, agreed. I know I'd rather orig. than some attempt at a fix.


(aside: Wasn't there a video cassette that came with early cars about closing the hood? Someone ought to post that on utube, I'd like to see it just for the "factory video" value.)

 

[costanZo]

+1, agreed. I know I'd rather orig. than some attempt at a fix.


(aside: Wasn't there a video cassette that came with early cars about closing the hood? Someone ought to post that on utube, I'd like to see it just for the "factory video" value.)

+1..

 

[LiquoRT/10]

This is a fairly good description from ViperJoe on this thread.


http://forums.viperclub.org/rt-10-gts-discussions/589716-proper-way-closing-hood.html



"Closing the hood:

Press both hands firmly down atop where the hinges mate to the hood - this is just inboard of the vents - about halfway down the vents (think of the middle vent as the spot, then move inboard on each side about 6 to 8 inches)

Poke your head under the hood and line up where the hinges are to get a good visual. You'll get used to exactly where they are over time.

It does take more force than what I was using originally - I think that my initial force was in direct correlation to the cost of the hood. I found that using a little more force in the right spot did the trick

My logic for this is simple - all stress is being applied to the actual support system for the hood and not in between them, reducing the potential for stress cracking, etc.

Also, I find that first gently closing the hood down completely to where the latch rests against the loop, then opening it up to the intermediate open step before finally shutting it firmly helps. Not sure why but it just does.

After closing the hood down.... press down at both rear corners to make sure they are all the way down before you go to the front to push it down.

Close it with your hands just above the NACA duct.
Give it a pretty good, even push."