Daves Big Brakes ???
- Thread starter plumcrazy
- Start date
Paul Hawker
Enthusiast
Dave is a great guy that is really into Vipers. People love his products, and his prices seem more than fair.
Don't know which package you are looking at, but before buying you should talk to Dave himself for advice. He has done lots of these brake upgrades, and can be really helpful in chosing the right package, what brakes work with what wheels, and installation tips.
Don't know which package you are looking at, but before buying you should talk to Dave himself for advice. He has done lots of these brake upgrades, and can be really helpful in chosing the right package, what brakes work with what wheels, and installation tips.
dave tells me basically its gonna be $3000 if i use MY front calipers on the rear and $4000 if i buy 4 SRT calipers.
i know city and andrew love their setups and they both have their gen2 front calipers on the back, im gonna likely go that way.
i know city and andrew love their setups and they both have their gen2 front calipers on the back, im gonna likely go that way.
I have the Gen II fronts moved to the rear and SRT fronts with EBC dimpled/slotted rotors. Braking is excellent. My only complaint with my setup is that I am not happy with the EBC Red Ceramic pads that I recently bought and installed. Still too much dust and squeek.
99 R/T 10
Enthusiast
I have Tom's rear caliper upgrade and love them. Might want to PM him, but it feels much more balanced and is MUCH cheaper. If he still has the covers, I believe the total would be $700. Tom................
TexasPettey
Enthusiast
$3000 sounds like a lot. I'd keep an eye out for SRT front calipers. You can find them for <$600 for a front pair with low mileage. At that point, you're just buying the kit components from Dave. New rims may be required, or spacers. If you have a Gen2, and use your front calipers on the rears, I'd bet you could do the whole conversion for <$2K.
I've already got Tom's rear upgrade on my Gen1. I just picked up a set of SRT calipers from SVS's sale. I'm going to use Dave's kit for the fronts and put a proportioning valve to help balance the rears. With the deal SVS made me on the calipers and Dave's kit for the front, I think my total cost for the brake upgrade will be <$1200. After looking around, there isn't a better deal out there.
I will be on the lookout for some 18" track rims after I use up the last of my 17" track rubber.
I've already got Tom's rear upgrade on my Gen1. I just picked up a set of SRT calipers from SVS's sale. I'm going to use Dave's kit for the fronts and put a proportioning valve to help balance the rears. With the deal SVS made me on the calipers and Dave's kit for the front, I think my total cost for the brake upgrade will be <$1200. After looking around, there isn't a better deal out there.
I will be on the lookout for some 18" track rims after I use up the last of my 17" track rubber.
I paid ~$1900 for the kit from Dave.
I paid ~$750 for a pair of front SRT10 rotors from Roe.
I paid ~$900 for a set of 4 SRT10 calipers from ebay.
Total is ~$3550. I hope to recoup some of that by selling my old calipers (anyone interested?
TexasPettey, how much did you pay for your calipers? Front and rear?
I'm installing it myself...still working on it. So far it is not too difficult...
Alex
I paid ~$750 for a pair of front SRT10 rotors from Roe.
I paid ~$900 for a set of 4 SRT10 calipers from ebay.
Total is ~$3550. I hope to recoup some of that by selling my old calipers (anyone interested?
TexasPettey, how much did you pay for your calipers? Front and rear?
I'm installing it myself...still working on it. So far it is not too difficult...
Alex
DodgeViper01
Enthusiast
I believe Scott has them and Adrian was having them installed a few weeks back. They should be able to answer some of your questions as well.
VIPER BAZ UK
Enthusiast
Hi Plum
I have SRT front and rear and they are fantastic...
The reason i went this route was to keep it all stock parts..
Bought all calipers and pads from Chuck so his discount was handy.
I did start of with Gen 2 fronts on the rear but then dave did a bracket kit to fit SRT calipers on 13" rotors...
Daves kit is superb and everything works and fits perfect....And they look good too.....
I have SRT front and rear and they are fantastic...
The reason i went this route was to keep it all stock parts..
Bought all calipers and pads from Chuck so his discount was handy.
I did start of with Gen 2 fronts on the rear but then dave did a bracket kit to fit SRT calipers on 13" rotors...
Daves kit is superb and everything works and fits perfect....And they look good too.....
All Blue ACR
Enthusiast
I have Dave's kit. Highly recommend Dave's stuff. Very high quality kit and he is a great resource. Installed myself; no issues
wastntim
Enthusiast
I have dave's kit. Went with SRT all the way around. When I was buying, there was a bunch of talk about throwing off the bias front to rear by mixing and matching my fronts with SRT Fronts. I did some research and found out that gen 2 stock fronts have bigger pistons than SRT rears. So as to not tax my ABS too much, I went with SRT on all four. I'm glad I did. Everything now matches perfectly. Same pads front to back, so it's easier to have an extra set around. Bought my calipers from R&J powdercoated to match the car. Total spent was about $3k. I did the install myself. It was a long project including the stainless lines, but not overly difficult. Access to a lift is almost a must.
I've been tracking my car this summer and notice the difference on the track a ton. Plus they look awesome.
I've been tracking my car this summer and notice the difference on the track a ton. Plus they look awesome.
TexasPettey
Enthusiast
I paid ~$1900 for the kit from Dave.
I paid ~$750 for a pair of front SRT10 rotors from Roe.
I paid ~$900 for a set of 4 SRT10 calipers from ebay.
Total is ~$3550. I hope to recoup some of that by selling my old calipers (anyone interested?
TexasPettey, how much did you pay for your calipers? Front and rear?
I'm installing it myself...still working on it. So far it is not too difficult...
Alex
I got the front calipers for $450 and the stock front rotors for $100. Both low mileage take offs.
I did not buy SRT rears. I was going to put my fronts on the rear, but it doesn't look to be worth the $ and hassle. Per Dave's advice, the mods on a Gen1 for the rear are more invasive than a Gen2. Considering he could have sold me on extra $ for the rear, but didn't, I consider it great advice.
VIPER BAZ UK
Enthusiast
Did mine in less than a day.. Nothing to it..
I took a load of pics and posted them some time ago....
I took a load of pics and posted them some time ago....
Dave's Big Brakes
Enthusiast
Hey Plum,
Just got to say this
If I can do it
anyone can
I've also done 6 on jack stands in my garage It takes longer eating Chuck's Deviled EggsNow does that put pressure on you 
Big Brake Dave
Dave's Big Brakes
858-382-4713
02 Graphite GTS
Enthusiast
Hey Plum,
I did my big brake upgrade myself at the end of 2006. Absolutely no issues with it at all.
Since then I've helped 2 other members do the upgrade on their car. Both of them went with SRT calipers up front and moved their front calipers to the rear.
Excellant upgrade to do.
I did my big brake upgrade myself at the end of 2006. Absolutely no issues with it at all.
Since then I've helped 2 other members do the upgrade on their car. Both of them went with SRT calipers up front and moved their front calipers to the rear.
Excellant upgrade to do.
wastntim
Enthusiast
Not a problem, but I don't think you are going to be needing to call nearly as much as you think. Besides Dave's instructions, there is a nice write up in the How To section.
Purdue_Boiler_Viper
Enthusiast
I did the front relo with Roe's SRT front kit. I also got matching race rotors from Roe for the rears to match the fronts. A real nice package. The only difficulty I had was with the Ebrake cable. The instructions could use more detail, and a number of us have had wheel rub on the cable. I would like to see how others tie wrap the ebrake cable to ensure no rubbing.
VIPER BAZ UK
Enthusiast
Mine was close but not rubbed.. All sorted now with 19"s on the rear....
Paul Hawker
Enthusiast
Plumcrazy.
Two full pages of all positive responses. Even from the man himself (Dave).
Don't know what else you could hear.
Two full pages of all positive responses. Even from the man himself (Dave).
Don't know what else you could hear.
Boxer12
Enthusiast
I've got a bunch of pics of this job in my gallery. Great package, better brake feel than Stoptech, imo. I also like the bias adjustment, which lets me customize the braking to the track or conditions.
XXX BLK
Enthusiast
You might want to contact Dave as I have the same issues and he told me he didn't know of anyone elese with this problem but he's building me a bracket to correct it. Dave took care of it for me and I respect him for that and I will continue to order from here. Adrian
P.S. Also after complete install check your emergency brakes you might have to adjust them also I almost found out the hard way.
Last edited:
Andrew2KRT10
Enthusiast
Long, but I think worth reading !
Well, this is good timing cause some discussions came up at the NY/CT - NJ AX at Pocono. I had Chuck Tator install my set up last year. I got hold of SRT '03 brakes for free so it was a no brainier. Chuck installed the SRTs in the front and switched my stock front to my rear. I bought Dave's e-brake set up for the rear which Chuck also installed.
If I did not get the SRT's for free, I probably would have gone with Tom Hayden's set up for the rear and be done with it all, but that's not what happened.
Anyway, a few results that anyone considering the job should look out for:
The SRTs in the front: Great upgrade
Switching the fronts to the rear: Great upgrade
Dave's e-brake in the rear: okay, but the following adjustments are necessary in my opinion:
1. The bracket to which the cable mounts, does so in such a way that the cable rests on the corner of the upper control arm. The set-up has the e-brake up top. Some other set-ups have the e-brake on the lower right. With Dave’s the e-brake cable comes across the top of the upper control arm and as I said, it rests on the corner of the upper control arm and that cable will wear through real quick ! I only noticed mine wearing through after I was changing my wheels for a track day and was cleaning everything. I immediately called & e-mailed Chuck and Dave. They gave me some suggestions to try and pivot the e-brake cable up a little and out of the way. I had no luck with this. Dave was nice enough to work with me and sent me a second pair of brackets. I re-drilled different mounting holes for the cable mount on the bracket about 3/8" higher up and now I have perfect clearance for the cable over the control arm and no concern of it wearing through. Thanks DAVE !!
In my opinion, this MUST be done !!!
2. Second problem, and I have not really figured out why, but the brake handle in the car now pulls up so high it could be used for a coat rack. For some reason, the e-brake cable excursion is way longer than with the stock set-up by a number of inches!! NO, adjusting the cable at the e-brake will not do squat for this problem. All that will do is cause the e-brake pads to tighten up on the rotor and squeak till the cows come home. I literally have to pull that handle up to the very last click to hope that my car will hold on any significant incline. I am convinced after pulling apart my console that there is a way to fix this problem. It means some serious rebuilding of the way the cable connects to the handle by means of a pulley system. I think it will have to be a winter project. Until then, I don’t find the need to use my e-brake to often. I seem to be able to rest in mostly level areas. BUT, if I do use it, with the adjustment I described in #1 above, at least I won’t worry about my cable wearing through anymore.
3. I needed a prop-valve. I had way to much brake in the front and had to switch more to the rear. After getting it balanced out, the car stops on a dime. NO fade during track events.
Finally, let me get one thing out there. This is a very easy fix. It’s only a matter setting the time aside to do the work. Doing the SRT upgrade on Gen 2s is in my opinion, as great an upgrade as when I changed out my rear end gears. There are some things that just work real well and are not very complicated.
The problems I ran into is by no means a reflection on Dave’s products or Chuck’s service. Dave provided me the parts and I solved the cable - wearing problem. But it MUST be done !!! Chuck did a fine install with the parts he had. He also helped me out recently with a tip on how to stop .... no....... eliminate the squeaking as a result of the Brakeman #3 pads I was using, but I have to keep that under wraps. If you want that done, get your car over to Chuck.
Thanks,
Well, this is good timing cause some discussions came up at the NY/CT - NJ AX at Pocono. I had Chuck Tator install my set up last year. I got hold of SRT '03 brakes for free so it was a no brainier. Chuck installed the SRTs in the front and switched my stock front to my rear. I bought Dave's e-brake set up for the rear which Chuck also installed.
If I did not get the SRT's for free, I probably would have gone with Tom Hayden's set up for the rear and be done with it all, but that's not what happened.
Anyway, a few results that anyone considering the job should look out for:
The SRTs in the front: Great upgrade
Switching the fronts to the rear: Great upgrade
Dave's e-brake in the rear: okay, but the following adjustments are necessary in my opinion:
1. The bracket to which the cable mounts, does so in such a way that the cable rests on the corner of the upper control arm. The set-up has the e-brake up top. Some other set-ups have the e-brake on the lower right. With Dave’s the e-brake cable comes across the top of the upper control arm and as I said, it rests on the corner of the upper control arm and that cable will wear through real quick ! I only noticed mine wearing through after I was changing my wheels for a track day and was cleaning everything. I immediately called & e-mailed Chuck and Dave. They gave me some suggestions to try and pivot the e-brake cable up a little and out of the way. I had no luck with this. Dave was nice enough to work with me and sent me a second pair of brackets. I re-drilled different mounting holes for the cable mount on the bracket about 3/8" higher up and now I have perfect clearance for the cable over the control arm and no concern of it wearing through. Thanks DAVE !!
In my opinion, this MUST be done !!!
2. Second problem, and I have not really figured out why, but the brake handle in the car now pulls up so high it could be used for a coat rack. For some reason, the e-brake cable excursion is way longer than with the stock set-up by a number of inches!! NO, adjusting the cable at the e-brake will not do squat for this problem. All that will do is cause the e-brake pads to tighten up on the rotor and squeak till the cows come home. I literally have to pull that handle up to the very last click to hope that my car will hold on any significant incline. I am convinced after pulling apart my console that there is a way to fix this problem. It means some serious rebuilding of the way the cable connects to the handle by means of a pulley system. I think it will have to be a winter project. Until then, I don’t find the need to use my e-brake to often. I seem to be able to rest in mostly level areas. BUT, if I do use it, with the adjustment I described in #1 above, at least I won’t worry about my cable wearing through anymore.
3. I needed a prop-valve. I had way to much brake in the front and had to switch more to the rear. After getting it balanced out, the car stops on a dime. NO fade during track events.
Finally, let me get one thing out there. This is a very easy fix. It’s only a matter setting the time aside to do the work. Doing the SRT upgrade on Gen 2s is in my opinion, as great an upgrade as when I changed out my rear end gears. There are some things that just work real well and are not very complicated.
The problems I ran into is by no means a reflection on Dave’s products or Chuck’s service. Dave provided me the parts and I solved the cable - wearing problem. But it MUST be done !!! Chuck did a fine install with the parts he had. He also helped me out recently with a tip on how to stop .... no....... eliminate the squeaking as a result of the Brakeman #3 pads I was using, but I have to keep that under wraps. If you want that done, get your car over to Chuck.
Thanks,
Andrew2KRT10
Enthusiast
Yes, I do have pics, but never have any luck posting. PM me and I will e-mail to you.
AC
AC
andrew, that's GREAT info. just the kind of detailed stuff I wanted to hear. I'm gonna hold off a bit in these for now. I've heard of a few problems and with your detailed info, I wanna see how it all unfolds.
my email is [email protected]
mods can jeep my enail ddy here. I dontcare about spam.
thanx again andrew !
my email is [email protected]
mods can jeep my enail ddy here. I dontcare about spam.
thanx again andrew !
