Differential Overheated? I have a Quaife? Anyone with a solution

Shandon

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Well it looks like I overheated my differential fluid yesterday at the track:mad: (and I have a quaife) It burped all over. Not a ton of fluid but enough to have me freaking out until I saw what had happened. Didn't see it until I was putting the car on the trailer. I was putting the heat down at Mid-Ohio's track yesterday and ALL day!

Please share any advice or solutions and what care I should take since I obviously heated the fluid up enough for the burp valve to function. I assume a diff fluid change is in order?
Do they make a catch can or something? I know I could move to a comp coupe diff cooler (Very costly). Advice?? :dunno::dunno:
 

dave6666

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Send the fluid out for analysis.

__________________________________________________

Please note the complaint-free content. Dave, contemporary mod-rice Viper/Ricer owner, and I approve this message.
 
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Shandon

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I'm not worried about the differential being hurt. I just ran it too hard for too long. I'm looking for how to keep it cooler at the track?
 

Smokin' 2

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I'm not worried about the differential being hurt. I just ran it too hard for too long. I'm looking for how to keep it cooler at the track?

The ACR-X has a diff cooler system with fans. The ACR track guide from a Viper mag in 2008 said that a diff should be fine for 30 minute sessions if you give the car time to cool down between runs. If you are hot lapping for more than 30 minutes that article suggested a cooler.

F8L SNK just put one of the ACR X diff cooling kits on his ACR but hasn't put it back on track yet.

I'm not an expert but read up on it. I too have the Quaife on my '08 that is exclusively a track car and was worried about overheating driveline components in the Texas heat.

Good luck and let us know what you decide.:2tu:
 
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gb66gth

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Funny, I just had my (stock) diff flushed at 15K miles. It's cheap insurance,IMHO, on a car that sees apx. 6 track days a year and "enthusiastic" street duty
 

F8L SNK

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I have made a quasi ACR X system. It is almost just like it but as Mike has said I have not track tested it yet. I am CERTAIN it will work as well as the X system as all that is different is my aluminum shrouding.

Here are the parts I used:

Twin 4" Inline Duct Blower - 235 CFM

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Setrab Cooler 40-915-07612

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Tilton Differential Fluid Pump 50-524

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I made an aluminum shroud and mounting plate, then painted it black

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Then I made all the braided lines to fit

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You will then need to either wire in an on/off switch or use a temp switch mounted in the diff to turn it on at a preset fluid temp. It can not be a continuous run as the pump will not like cold fluid and will most likely fail.

Hope this helps
 
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X-Metal

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I have made a quasi ACR X system. It is almost just like it but as Mike has said I have not track tested it yet. I am CERTAIN it will work as well as the X system as all that is different is my aluminum shrouding.

Here are the parts I used:

Twin 4" Inline Duct Blower - 235 CFM

You must be registered for see images attach


Setrab Cooler 50-91507612

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Tilton Differential Fluid Pump 50-524

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I made an aluminum shroud and mounting plate, then painted it black

You must be registered for see images attach


Then I made all the braided lines to fit

You must be registered for see images attach


You will then need to either wire in an on/off switch or use a temp switch mounted in the diff to turn it on at a preset fluid temp. It can not be a continuous run as the pump will not like cold fluid and will most likely fail.

Hope this helps
kick ass looking system. you might want to consider flipping the cooler 180 degrees with the fittings at the top. that will keep an air bubble from forming. with the fittings on top, you can burp the fluid and remove the air. or put a bleed of some sort on the top of where its at now
 

F8L SNK

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Thanks X!

Actually an air bubble is more likely with the fittings on the top. The top of the fluid level in the differential is lower than the top of the cooler. If I put the fittings there it would very potentially not flow. It would have to overflow the cooler. The way it is now is the most efficient means. The fluid can be less than an inch high in the cooler and still flow through. Remember the cooler may never fill completely.

Coincidentally (I copied it :) ) this is how the ACR X is run as well

Here are some pics from a well used ACR X I took

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kick ass looking system. you might want to consider flipping the cooler 180 degrees with the fittings at the top. that will keep an air bubble from forming. with the fittings on top, you can burp the fluid and remove the air. or put a bleed of some sort on the top of where its at now
 

F8L SNK

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Setrab cooler - $186.59 ea.
Setrab Fittings -8 - $9.19 ea. x 2
4" Cooling Fans - $26.99 ea. x 2
Tilton 40-524 Pump - $169.58
Stainless Line -8 (6') - $51.95 ea.
90 Degree Fittings -8 - $20.99 ea. x 5
Swivel Fitting -8 to 3/8" - $29.95 ea.
Filter - $46.95 ea.
Fitting -8 to 3/8" - $3.95 ea. x 3
Aluminum Sheet $80
Welding $40
Temperature Switch $19.99 ea.
Wire and Weatherpack connectors $59

$873.43 plus shipping
 
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Shandon

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Ok Im seeing the intake line (to the pump) and how its attached at the diff. but I dont see a return line to the diff? My Diff has two holes on the bottom a side hole (im guessing thats where the return line would go) and a top fill hole? Of your system setup what was the hardest part of the install? What had to be welded? Im very interested in maybe building that for my car. Not wanting to repeat this again at the track.
 

F8L SNK

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The hardest part was sourcing all of the parts. Easy now that I found everywhere to find the items and the pumps are back in stock (3month backorder) Nothing is really hard at all so I am not sure what to tell you was hard. If you can make your own stainless steel lines with fittings and you can do basic fabrication it will be easy.

The return line will go to a pre tapped and plugged hole above the fill hole

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The aluminum panels are what I made to be bent and welded. If you notice the cooler assembly the parts in blue where the mockup pieces for the aluminum pieces. This is what had to be welded.

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More pictures

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xr4racer

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Shandon, nice meeting you at Mid Ohio. We use Lucas 75-140 synthetic in all of our Viper differentials (Quaife, stock, OS Giken), it is changed every 2 or 3 weekends and never shows any signs of overheating. It is fairly normal to lose some out of the vent especially if when you filled it when the car was not quite level or the amient temperature was on the colder side, regardless it will expand with the high heat of racing. I have never had a problem and we have used from 3.07-3.91 ratios. I do not know how long the sessions were but David generally runs 35 minutes max.

matt
 
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Shandon

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Shandon, nice meeting you at Mid Ohio. We use Lucas 75-140 synthetic in all of our Viper differentials (Quaife, stock, OS Giken), it is changed every 2 or 3 weekends and never shows any signs of overheating. It is fairly normal to lose some out of the vent especially if when you filled it when the car was not quite level or the amient temperature was on the colder side, regardless it will expand with the high heat of racing. I have never had a problem and we have used from 3.07-3.91 ratios. I do not know how long the sessions were but David generally runs 35 minutes max.

matt

Hey Matt!
It was great meeting you also. Don't forget to shoot me an email about those brackets. Happy to send them out to you all.

I have been using schlomers 75-90w in there. I havnt tried any others, thats one of the ones unitrax told me to go with (ill try the lucas next fill). It was an all day open lapping and only 6 cars on the track including me. I only ran for 30-40min at a time but I should have given more time for the car to rest in the pits. I think I only took 15minute breaks later in the day. In retrospect I will take longer rest times and allow the car to cool down. Just having to much fun out there with no cars in my way:D
 
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Shandon

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Hey Matt!
It was great meeting you also. Don't forget to shoot me an email about those brackets. Happy to send them out to you all.

I have been using schlomers 75-90w in there. I havnt tried any others, thats one of the ones unitrax told me to go with (ill try the lucas next fill). It was an all day open lapping and only 6 cars on the track including me. I only ran for 30-40min at a time but I should have given more time for the car to rest in the pits. I think I only took 15minute breaks later in the day. In retrospect I will take longer rest times and allow the car to cool down. Just having to much fun out there with no cars in my way:D


Sorry I ment Schaeffers 293 75-90W... Not sure where I got Schlomers from :doh2:
 

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Regular gear oil changes (after every 3 or 4 track weekends), more time in between sessions for cooling (minimum 30 minutes, more is better) and not over filling the diff will likely solve your problems. If you get a garage at the track, you could bring an electric fan.

Devin (at Unitrax) recommended Synergyn Syngear II for the Quaife in my 09 ACR.

On a related subject, I've had more issues with my trans overheating than my diff, so I installed the ACRX trans cooler. No issues since.

Dan
 
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Shandon

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Regular gear oil changes (after every 3 or 4 track weekends), more time in between sessions for cooling (minimum 30 minutes, more is better) and not over filling the diff will likely solve your problems. If you get a garage at the track, you could bring an electric fan.

Devin (at Unitrax) recommended Synergyn Syngear II for the Quaife in my 09 ACR.

On a related subject, I've had more issues with my trans overheating than my diff, so I installed the ACRX trans cooler. No issues since.

Dan


Thanks Dan
I have a local race shop putting together a cooler for me and installing it after next weekend.
Does the T6060 have heat issues? I have not heard much overheating problems in the T56 and a lot of comp coupes don't even run a cooler for them (at least thats what I have read)? The shop and I talked about a cooler for the trans?
 

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