Drill holes under sidesill?
- Thread starter Vipermann
- Start date
DSR207
Enthusiast
Another option
Side Sill Vent
Side Sill Vent
Skip White
Enthusiast
Air turbulance, whistling noise possibly.
What is it about the heat that you don't like? I'm curious as to know what it is that bothers people on the heat issues. Of course I have my gripes on this subject also. I have some solutions, as doe's many others on this.
What is it about the heat that you don't like? I'm curious as to know what it is that bothers people on the heat issues. Of course I have my gripes on this subject also. I have some solutions, as doe's many others on this.
I bought the inconel header shields from them and at the time they advised that the side sill vents were no longer in production for the SRT. I have a pic of the shields installed if you click at the pics on the left. Of course they are designed to keep heat from the adjoining wiring/equipment-not the sills.
- Joined
- May 1, 2004
- Posts
- 3,471
- Reaction score
- 2
I would not drill any holes. But these guys offer racing style insulation, if you don't like the heat. Contact: Tim Thompson [[email protected]].
High flow cats and a less restrictive muffler / exhaust pipe system will make a big differnece in sill / cabin heat.
Good luck,
Dan
High flow cats and a less restrictive muffler / exhaust pipe system will make a big differnece in sill / cabin heat.
Good luck,
Dan
fastfang
Enthusiast
I replaced my cats with the random tech high flow cats which deleted the secondary cats. The car is alot cooler now and very comfortable to drive. I bought them from JonB at partsrack.
Racer Robbie
Enthusiast
I am trying some new products that are used to eliminate heat in my 2003. Just installed them today and will be driving to Newport, RI on thursday, will let you know how it works out
ViperMann: I do not recommend insulating the cats; I tried that and found that because the heat did not dissipate it made the issue(heat) worse. I also insulated on top of the existing OEM insulation(sills) and discovered that it restricted airflow to the pipes and muffler-heat grew worse. In the end I had to remove the sills and take the header wrap tape off.
Skip White
Enthusiast
I second the recommedation above. Cats may produce much to high a temp for wrap. I would think they do????
We used a stick on heat barrier on a customers car, and found it to the neatest product on the market. It conforms so nicely, to curves and angles. I think it would be great to put in the footwells, firewall, under the air box, to keep migratory heat from heating up the outside air coming in the intake,etc. This stuff really is great to work with.
We used a stick on heat barrier on a customers car, and found it to the neatest product on the market. It conforms so nicely, to curves and angles. I think it would be great to put in the footwells, firewall, under the air box, to keep migratory heat from heating up the outside air coming in the intake,etc. This stuff really is great to work with.
Skip White
Enthusiast
Vipermann, I'll get that info for you later on today.
Racer Robbie
Enthusiast
We have been working on the side sill and footwell heat issue for the last 6 months and have put together a self installed kit to address this issue. We have tested it on a 90 degree day I can drive barefoot. You can put your bare foot right on the dead pedal and leave it there. The side sills are cool to the touch. With the top up we had to turn down the a/c when we test drove the car. With the top down one stays confortable.This kit is very simple to install and can be done in a day. Yes you will have to remove the side sills, it takes me 10 minutes to remove both sideIs.
The selling price for this kit is 679.95. UPS GROUND is included in the lower 48 states of the USA.
Robbie
AtRo Racing Products
203-641-8569
[email protected]
The selling price for this kit is 679.95. UPS GROUND is included in the lower 48 states of the USA.
Robbie
AtRo Racing Products
203-641-8569
[email protected]
edretti
Enthusiast
You are so correct, even having a straight exhaust you still get tons of heat on the side sills burning my legs. When I bought the hi flow cats for my RT/10 it was like night and day. Not on this car. I must ask the same question as well, what are you getting for $679.00?
Racer Robbie
Enthusiast
AtRo Racing Products Heat Elimination Kit <font color="red"> </font> AtRo Racing Products Heat Elimination Kit consists of a wrap that you put around all of your exhaust system including the cats, mufflers, pipes, and crossover. After attaching this wrap with the supplied stainless steel clamps you will coat the entire system with the supplied coating which seals all the pores and makes the wrap waterproof. Also supplied are custom cut mating that goes inside of your car between your carpet and the side sills. This mating runs along the hole side of the sill from the back of the seat to the front of the footwells and forms a barrier to keep the heat out and the A/C cool air in the cabin. We also supply custom cut mating that goes under your floor matts and is glued to the bottom of the mats. Then you will glue the supplied rubber mating to the bottom of the heat shield on the mats. This is an easy to install kit that does not alter the looks of your car in any way.
Robbie <font color="blue"> </font>
Feel free to call me at 203-641-8569 <font color="blue"> </font>
Robbie <font color="blue"> </font>
Feel free to call me at 203-641-8569 <font color="blue"> </font>
Racer Robbie
Enthusiast
I may be wrong bot I have never heard of a cat being to hot besides we only are wraping the seconday cat and not the primary one.
I assume you are not an engineer by your response. Catalyst temperature is a primary consideration in setting the final tune of an engine. The catalysts have a substrate that can melt at high temperature. When that happens you have a clogged cat. As in low air flow. A well tuned performance car will push the cat temp limit. Covering up the cat in insulation prevents the cat from rejecting heat, thus its internal temperature will rise. In this case the secondary cat will rise more as the primary cat exit temperature will be hotter as well. That may (read will) result in early cat failure. And those things get pretty expensive to change on a regular basis.
So, forgetting the non-engineer assumption, what is the peak catalyst brick temperature achieved during your R&D testing?
So, forgetting the non-engineer assumption, what is the peak catalyst brick temperature achieved during your R&D testing?
Skip White
Enthusiast
What Ron says may be so, but may I say, as one who has cut open thousands of cat. converters to claim the precious platinum coated substrate from them, many of the GMs had an insulation materiel between the honeycomb, and outer wall of the cat. Later model GM cats did not have this, but it was said, this material would eventually burn up, and the honeycomb blocks would rattle, and start to break up, due to the slack from the buned up insulation. I think there goal was to reduce the cat. temp, as they were a fire hazard in dry grass. On the later models, heat sheilds became evident.
As far as wrapping them, I wonder what temp they get up to, but I don't really see a problem with it.
I asked the question in my post above, "will you guys tell me what is this furnace your all talking about".
Surely your not noticing this in the evening, on a one hour or less cruise, to the point it's burning you up.
I really don't get it.
and surely you guys aren't running around with the A/C on with the windows rolled up tight, if so no wonder your burning up, as the heat can't get out of the car, not to mention the A/C makes things that much hotter under the hood.
As far as wrapping them, I wonder what temp they get up to, but I don't really see a problem with it.
I asked the question in my post above, "will you guys tell me what is this furnace your all talking about".
Surely your not noticing this in the evening, on a one hour or less cruise, to the point it's burning you up.
I really don't get it.
and surely you guys aren't running around with the A/C on with the windows rolled up tight, if so no wonder your burning up, as the heat can't get out of the car, not to mention the A/C makes things that much hotter under the hood.
Racer Robbie
Enthusiast
Skip, thanks for your reply. We have been heat wrapping cat for years and have never had a service life problem. As I stated before we are only wrapping the secondary cat, ot the primary. When I checked the heat on the primary cat after wrapping the secondary cat there was no difference in temp in the primary cat.
Skip, I can tell you that my car burnt the hell out of me during the day with the stock system, the heat came through the sills and through the footwells where the Primary cat is. After I designed a very free flowing exhaust system the heat was reduced by at least 50% We tried leaving the crossover off, as you had recomended with your system, as the crossover accounts for a huge amount of heat buildup, but found the cars runs lousy in the low RPM range, therefor we put it back on. So then we tried different heat wraps and they did a fairly good job of reducing the heat from entering the cabin. Then my brother in law, who also is a engineer like myself, who works in the Chevy Corvette Division gave me some insulation and told me to try it. From this matterial I made up kits that reduce the inside temperture by over 90%. You can now put your hands and feet on the dead pedal or along the sills without getting burnt. A side benifit is thatthe car runs a lot better and a lot smoother.
By the way I tried the new Autolite XP spark plus that came out for the viper and they are amazing. You should try them out. Part number is XP985, Gapped .035. Be sure guys to gap them with a spark pulg wire gaper as the round cheap parts store ones are useless. The beat gaper is made by Jacobs Ignition which we use for racing.
Skip, I can tell you that my car burnt the hell out of me during the day with the stock system, the heat came through the sills and through the footwells where the Primary cat is. After I designed a very free flowing exhaust system the heat was reduced by at least 50% We tried leaving the crossover off, as you had recomended with your system, as the crossover accounts for a huge amount of heat buildup, but found the cars runs lousy in the low RPM range, therefor we put it back on. So then we tried different heat wraps and they did a fairly good job of reducing the heat from entering the cabin. Then my brother in law, who also is a engineer like myself, who works in the Chevy Corvette Division gave me some insulation and told me to try it. From this matterial I made up kits that reduce the inside temperture by over 90%. You can now put your hands and feet on the dead pedal or along the sills without getting burnt. A side benifit is thatthe car runs a lot better and a lot smoother.
By the way I tried the new Autolite XP spark plus that came out for the viper and they are amazing. You should try them out. Part number is XP985, Gapped .035. Be sure guys to gap them with a spark pulg wire gaper as the round cheap parts store ones are useless. The beat gaper is made by Jacobs Ignition which we use for racing.
