Electrical demon


May 18, 2022
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North Dakota
Hello, I'm new to the forum but I have owned my 2000 viper for a couple years now. I acquired the viper in trade for some dental equipment after closing my parents dental practice down after they passed away back to back. I have a decent car collection so am mechanically inclined but stumped on this viper. Dentist who came to look at my parents practice, liked my 69 mach 1 I drove to meet him with and asked if I was interested in cars (yes but played dumb) and worked out a deal.

Its a 2000 RT/10 with 16k, black on black. The issue is sometimes the radio, hvac and windows don't work at all. Can shut the car off, start it back up and works or after driving for a while it will cure itself.

I would like to fix this and figure out how to adjust the parking brake before selling the car. I absolutely love the car but its time for a true viper fan to enjoy it as I'm looking for a roadrunner or another mach 1 instead. My family used to be ford dealers and was raised on muscle cars so thats more my thing outside of the history of the viper.

Any help is greatly appreciated.


VCA National President
VCA Officer
Jan 7, 2013
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That kind of sounds like a funny BCM module, but I can't remember if the early cars actually even had one of those or not. Almost sounds like communication is getting interrupted every once in a while and will sometimes clear up or just starts over on a reset. The parts manual I have doesn't seem to list one though, so thinking that might not be the case after all. Maybe a faulty relay or something? Like it gets hot and breaks down or the coil is just spotty. I don't have a 2000 wiring diagram handy though. Would be interesting to trace the power supply lines for all of those components to see if they have a common source or something like that. Could maybe be a flakey ground as well.

Do you know if any work or modification has been done to the car? If someone has been in there before it might make more sense that something is loose and wasn't reinstalled properly, but if it's a clean factory car then I'd lean more toward a back fuse/relay. I had a fuse go on one of my cars once that didn't quite **** all the way through, so if you checked it with meter you'd still see power on the other end, but any kind of load and the voltage would drop way down. So just because a fuse might look okay doesn't always mean it is. If anyone has a wiring diagram though I think that would probably help quite a bit.

Tom and Vipers

Nov 22, 2000
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Jeannette, PA 15644
If you plan on keeping the car OR work on it yourself, I'd suggest getting all the factory service manuals - in particular the wiring diagram.

I know parts manuals are on-line (I think Roe Racing has links to them.)

Also, the problems are all things controlled from the center console. Since there must be something they share to fail simultaneously, it might be near the console.

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