Engine Mount Install Guide...

[ViperTony]

Great write up! I just replaced my motor mounts yesterday with the PB's. One thing I did differently was to cut about 1/2" off the motor mount studs. They don't need to be that long, and that's 1/2" less you need to raise your motor. This helps when you have headers, a wideband and DLM tubing.

Great tip Jim. I contemplated doing the same with the Woodhouse mount bolts too. I wish I did, it would've helped with removing/installing them a bit easier.

 

[ViperTony]

Well, here's last part of the writeup. I hope you find these writeups useful and continue posting the excellent tips!

Replacing Engine/Transmission Mounts Part IV – Replacing Transmission Mount & Crossmember

Preface
In this illustration, we’ll be replacing the stock transmission mount with a Poly Hyperflex mount as well as replacing the stock transmission crossmember with Dave’s Big Brakes billet aluminum crossmember. Both items are available through DavesBigBrakes.

It’s been recommended that when replacing the engine mounts with Poly mounts to also replace the transmission mount. As for the crossmember, it’s been reported that the stock transmission crossmember can flex or twist under heavy torque.

Poly Hyperflex Mount:

You must be registered for see images

Dave’s Billet Aluminum Crossmember:

You must be registered for see images

Compared to the engine mount replacement, replacing the transmission mount/crossmember is fairly easy and quick.

SAFETY

Let’s remember some SAFETY guidelines from Part I:

• Always work on a hard level surface such as your garage floor.
• Use a floor jack and jack stand that’s rated to handle the weight of your car, at least.
• NEVER work under your car supported by a floor jack alone.
• Use safe jacking points under your car. A jack or jack stand in the wrong location can cause vehicle and bodily damage.
• Never jack up your car without blocking the wheels.
• Make certain your emergency brake is set and your gearshift is set in first gear before you jack it up.
• Keep a phone with you while under the car and have someone check on you periodically.
• Wear a pair of safety glasses or goggles while working under the car. I had all kinds of crud fall on me as I was pulling the differential undershield.\

Procedure
1. Get under the car and remove the underbody splash/stone shield which is located underneath the transmission and is secured by (12) 15mm bolts. (Yes, welcome to metric). You’ll need a 15mm ratchet and/or socket wrench.

You must be registered for see images

Once your shield is removed, you’ll have a clear view of the crossmember and mount:

You must be registered for see images

2. Remove the two nuts from the bolts holding the crossmember in place but DO NOT remove the bolts themselves at this point. 15mm socket or ratchet. Remover the nut holding the transmission mount to the crossmember:

You must be registered for see images

3. With the nuts removed, we’re ready to secure the transmission by placing our floor jack (screw jack if you have it) under the transmission:

You must be registered for see images

We don’t want to raise the transmission as we did with the engine. We want to secure and raise it slightly enough so that we can slide out the crossmember bolts.

With the jack in place and transmission slight raised, remove the bolts holding the crossmember and the crossmember itself. When done, you’ll have full access to the transmission mount.


4. Remove the two bolts holding the transmission mount in place and remove the mount. 15mm again:

You must be registered for see images

Mount Removed:

You must be registered for see images

5. Next, we’re going to install the Poly Hyperflex mount using the OEM bolts we just removed instead of the bolts that come with the Energy Suspen kit. Dave advised me NOT to use the supplied spacer as it’ll change the thickness of the mount. (I learned this after install the mount but my pics will show the space. Leave it off. Torque the bolts to 30 ft. lbs.

You must be registered for see images

6. Install the new billet aluminum crossmember (or OEM if you’re not upgrading). Insert the bolts we removed earlier in the crossmember and frame. Torque nuts to 60 ft. lbs. Using the supplied bolt from the Energy Suspension package, torque the bolt through the crossmember into the transmission mount. Torque the nut to 60 ft lbs.

Mount/Crossmember Installed:

You must be registered for see images

7. Lower the floor jack and install the underbody splash shield and tighten the (12) 15mm bolts to 30 ft. lbs. My service manual didn’t have a torque spec for these bolts but 30 ft. lbs should do it.

That’s it! We’re done with the installation. Now, that wasn’t so bad was it? When you’re done…safely lower your vehicle and enjoy your new mounts.

As always comments, suggestions and feedback are welcome.

Tony

 

[Jim Wilson]

Another great writeup Tony!!! I however, used the spacer since the directions said it is needed to pre-load the mount (it has two bumps the protrude out the bottom). Also, I thought that since the bottom of the transmission is not flat, but has two ridges, those ridges may split the mount prematurely. We'll see how it works.

Regarding your cell phone comment....I did the same thing just in case the jack slips or hydraulics fail. I would also like to add to be very cognizant of where your hands are while removing/replacing the to minimize the possibility of loosing a finger or hand if something does happen.

 

[Disturbed]

Just as side note from my install. The PB.com mounts are .5lb less in weight than stock. The stock mounts are 2lbs each. The poly mounts are 1.5 as per my digital scale.

The biggest issue I had was the my bellinger header was hitting the upper frame rail on the drivers side. SOOOO to cure that issue, I talked to the motor mount heat shield with a hammer.

 

[ViperTony]

Disturbed, do you have pics of the PB mounts installed? Would love to add them on to the write up. I forgot to take pics of the PB mounts when I had them installed. Not that it matters as the install is similiar. Were you able to mount the PB mounts so that the tabs face away from the headers? According to Johnny at PB, it doesn't matter which the safety tabs are facing. I was able to properly seat the driver's side mount with the tabs facing toward the headers. I was worried about the heat shielding not protecting that area.

Thanks, Tony.

 

[ViperTony]

Jim, I didn't even think about preloading the mount with the spacer. I'm going to reinstall the spacer as I am worried too about premature failure if it splits. I was the track this past weekend and the new mounts made a huge difference. As RUCKDR stated earlier, it now feels like the car wants to lurch forward. I can feel the energy being transferred to the rear wheels. Big difference over OEM mounts. Also, my shifter does not move at all even over the roughest bumps. Made my shifting a lot easier and quicker. I didn't miss shifts all day. I did have a bit more vibration at idle mostly but nothing that isn't tolerable, I actually like it. The best way I can sum up this upgrade is that the car feels alive, reborn.

- Tony

 

[Jim Wilson]

Here's a photo of the drivers side mount (tabs facing toward the rear)....

Before I installed the mounts, I cut a 1/2 inch off the threads; covered them with tape, cleaned the mounts, and painted them with black primer to avoid the rusting that occurs on the stock ones.

Here's the passenger side (tabs facing toward the front)....

And here's the Big Dave's trans mount with the spacer....

 

[Jim Wilson]

Oh crap, I just realized my mistake on the drivers side heat shield. Thanks Disturbed!!!! I'll fix it and report back later. I'll take my BFH and tin snips to fix the problem.

 

[Jim Wilson]

Ok, rather than hacking the heat sheild, I flipped the mount so the tabs face toward the front. However, this causes the mount to sit lower when assembled. Anyone see a potential problem with this setup???

 

[DanB]

It would be safe to assume that my motor mount bracket needs a little love. By love I mean replacing.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[mjorgensen Woodhouse]

Yes that would be safe to say.

 

[DanB]

Stupid previous owners. Or should I say previous reseller who only fixed what they thought they needed to fix to make a quick buck.