-FROG-'s Viper GTS Paxton Supercharger project pics.

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-FROG-

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what are you doing for fuel system? How much does the dual walbro setup cost?

The pumps are around $400 - $500 or so... but you need to have them installed in the fuel basket (pics posted in this thread above) and it requires a few more parts and labor. Chris Pharr and David Weaver at ART worked on mine and it was around $600 - $700 when complete. You also need the Injectors (around $1,000), fuel rails (around $500), fuel lines (maybe a few hundred $), 100 micron in line Filter ($100), Fuel Pressure Regulator ($150ish), Pressure Gage ($50ish) and the AN Fittings to piece it all together. Typically you can expect to pay around $3,000 give or take a few hundred for this, depending on the brand of components you go with. It's NOT cheap and I really didn't want to spend this much but in reality, it will support around 1000HP so it's something that will provide what I need even as in hopefully increase power in the future. The one thing you don't want to do is run out of fuel, so it's one of those things that's like insurance on your motor. I'll post more pics of my fuel as more of my parts come in.
 
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Update pics..... (progress slow now... met a girl!!! ;) )

Cleaned up valve covers while I had them off.

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Relocated Power Steering cooler:

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Nicely tucked away and protected but gets ful air flow on the front crossmember.

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Ditched the puny catch cans and went with beefier catch cans. Good move but lost a little money on this.

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Front mount cooler mounted up. Had to cut and grind off a few stock brackets that hold the bumper on.

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Update pics Feb 18 2012

I would be getting this done faster, but got me a girl and been kind of spending some time with her... *sigh* you know how it is... HOWEVER, she HAS been helping me on the project!!! Sorry to disappoint you guys, but THE PERFECT GIRL belongs to me!

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ROE Fuel Rails being test fitted. Had to bore out the retaining / mounting rings to allow my "Injector Dynamics" Injectors to go through.

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The SLEESTACK is the protector of my motor at night... sssssssss............ (Lindsey wouldn't let me wear the shirt anymore, so had to migrate it down into the garage and make use of it, lol)

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Carefully installing the AN fittings for my braided lines to connect to the catch cans.

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High Heat "cement / metal epoxy" under the washer / spacer, nut and all around any other area that may alloy oil to go through.

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The Mack Daddy himself!

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speedracervr4

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Great pics, Thanks for posting!! I'm plan on doing the catch can thing myself in the near future. I have a question though, you're not worried the RTV on the valve covers will deteriorate over time and add debris or contaminate your oil?
 
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Great pics, Thanks for posting!! I'm plan on doing the catch can thing myself in the near future. I have a question though, you're not worried the RTV on the valve covers will deteriorate over time and add debris or contaminate your oil?


There was already an RTV type sealer on the valve cover baffles from the factory. I had to cut it all off to remove the baffle for the AN Fitting installation. I replaced it with high heat RTV. I honestly think the only reason the RTV is there is to stop vibration / ratteling on the baffle. They make a bunch of noise without RTV. Never had problems with RTV in the past, so it should do what it's supposed to do.
 

Fatboy 18

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Good looking project, enjoyed the pics and good luck with the new Girlfriend :1up:

One thing I have noticed is it looks like you still have stock brakes? With the extra power do you intend to upgrade those too?
 
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Good looking project, enjoyed the pics and good luck with the new Girlfriend :1up:

One thing I have noticed is it looks like you still have stock brakes? With the extra power do you intend to upgrade those too?

Thanks! About the brakes... yea, I think about that from time to time. It will probably be the next upgrade. But really, when I get going really fast, I make sure I have enough slow down road up ahead. So, weather more power or not, if one allows enough stopping room, then stock brakes should stop a car going 150MPH, weather it has 300HP or 1000HP. I NEVER road course so I only need brakes for street and the drag strip.
 
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Added in Strut tower bar, with Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator mounted so it's visible when looking in the engine bay to make it easier for tuning. Installed heater blower assembly, cleaned up heater hoses / heater valve and a few other water lines. Properly mounted brake booster vacuum line, used some extra braided line and hose clamps. Also, once again test fitting the SC plumbing. Can also see metal power steering pump pulley.

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A few updated pics. Cach Cans completed and REALLY close to being done with my fuel system....
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ndvipergtsr

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I wonder why yours had sealer on the baffles? I have had a couple different vipers and all 96-98 gts,s and none had this just the screws in the baffles no sealer at all. Jerry
 
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I wonder why yours had sealer on the baffles? I have had a couple different vipers and all 96-98 gts,s and none had this just the screws in the baffles no sealer at all. Jerry

From messing around with them, my conclusion was for vibration / noise. As I tapped on them trying to find a reason for the sealer as well, I heard ALOT of ratteling. So that must be at least 1 reason why.
 
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This past week I:
...pinned the crank with the ROE pin kit.
Installed the oil "pressure" side for the blower that taps in to the oil sending unit (had to order the "tee" for the sending unit and it finally came in).
Removed and tapped the oil pan with an AN -8 for the oil return from the blower (waited for the AN -8 to come in from Summit)

It really doesn't take long to install the parts and work on the car. What's killing me is the constant "ordering, test fitting, ordering, test fitting, etc...." but with any custom project, it is required to make something fit to how you want it to work out. I "think" I ordered my last part for this project, but I have already said that once before!!! We'll see! :)

I'm waiting on a Power Steering High Pressure hose to come in. The stock one is in the way of the blower so had to get one from the Paxton kit that routes out of the way. I have test fitted everything and it's all mounted up basically... Just waiting for the hose and things will be pulled off and mounted properly. Then the fun begins trying to get the front bumper on and a few little items with the hood latch need to be figured out. Getting close!!!

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A little trick I did to spin the crank and drill out the other hole...
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HAd to slightly grint off a little of the pin to make it flush.
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How hard was it to install the crank pin kit? Any more pictures of it being done?

The crank pin was not that hard actually, but I did also have many components removed frmo the front of the engine so it made it easiey. Many people use an "angle drill" but screw that... that would take me forever and I am really impatient when it comes to stuff like that. To make it easier, I removed the fan and also unbolted the front "anti sway bar" and let the bar hang down. That allowed my to get my drill in there at an angle with little problem.

Last night I decided to go ahead and remove the "stock" harmonic balancer and I'm going to order an ATI balancer. I used to mess with alot of old 5.0 Mustangs and we always replaced the balancer. I had about 2 or 3 go out on the stangs. This balancer looks about the same as the 5.0 ones... and from all the reading I have been doing the last few days, it's just the proper investment to make from all the work and money I now have in the car.

With that in mind, I wanted to share pics of how the pin kit really "keys" the crank well. See the pics below.

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Finally started the car today! Still need some tuning but I adjusted the fuel pressure to 50psi at idle and tinkered around with vaccum lines. Waiting on my Blitz air filter to come in and need to get the right spark plugs. Now, I need to put the body panels back on and get it tuned!

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/536032_10150873862334210_853329209_9488194_1355532320_n.jpg

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So you just had to drill two holes in the ATI Damper to make it work with the roll pins that were already installed?

Yep. I measured and did the best I could with what I had. The ROE pin kit has a heavy duty thick steel guide to allow you to drill in the same spots. Ine hole was slightly off by a hair, so I ran the drill through there once more and it picked off the burr keeping the pin from going fully though. slid the pins in and tightened the main bolt with some loc tite. Should be good to go!
 
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GTS Dean

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This is a great writeup. One question: How is crankcase blowby supposed to get vented to the catch cans if you have the rocker cover plates and air cleaner ******* completely sealed off? I guess the catch cans won't require much cleanup.

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