Gen 1 Door Popper

[Red94Roadster]

I'm thinking about installing the door popper kit on my Gen 1. The previous owner provided the necessary hardware and I've read the "how to" section. I was wondering if anyone can offer personal opinions on the kit? I'm not quite sure the purpose for the manual lock disengage? Did you do one door, or two?

Thanks

 

[ROCKET62]

I did both as there is the "cool" factor when you pop them for a passenger. I suppose the reason for disengaging the lock mechanism would be to avoid a jamming situation if you lock the door and then try to unlock with the popper. Also would probably be recommended if you had windows/hardtop that locked.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

I have a '94 also. One of the best things I did. My fob has three buttons - "lock" "unlock" and "trunk." The lock and unlock armed and disarmed the alarm.

I configured mine to use the trunk button to pop the door. Therefore if you open the door before disarming, the alarm goes off. But I didn't want the door to open if I just disarmed...

I only did the driver door. I suppose the alarm-off + driver open for the unlock button and trunk button for passenger side would work.

The wiring is straightforward. Some people advocate a relay rather than through the alarm box, but mine has lasted several years. One thing I would add is an additional ground wire from the solenoid to the frame. On rare occasions the popper won't work and I simply lean on the door and then it does. I think it is because it relies on ground through the hinges or the latch and sometimes there is no connection.

People have posted that something bad happens if you manually lock the door and then try to open with the popper. I never lock the door - with zipper windows it never made sense - and I have only used the alarm.

Again, it's a great addition, simple, has been 100% reliable for me, except for the 5-6 times in many years that I had to lean on the door.

 

[ruckdr]

Red94Roadster, (William),
You have read my "Illustrated Instructions", about the installation, and I think you should find them straight forward. I have had mine installed for 5 years, with the only problem being the ground which I noticed after about a year - as Tom said, run a ground wire back through at door harness to a chassis ground. The updated instructions state this: "FOR BEST RESULTS, also run the ground wire through the rubber flex tube into the car and ground inside the car., thus not relying on the door hinges to provide the ground."

My key fob does not have a trunk button, so I only use the 'unlock' to open the driver door. I installed one of the supplied yellow push buttons to open the passenger door - no connection to the alarm, just the push button to trigger the solenoid and open the door. This is nice if you want to open for your wife, or anyone.

The instructions also mention to disconnect the manual lock rod to avoid locking.

Send me your Email address, and I will send you a number of Word documents which give additional information and install experiences from others that have installed the poppers. I also have some pictures, I can send, of where I mounted the push button for the passenger door open, and some others.

OH, YES you will love them. When I walk up to the car, I don't even think about reaching in to open the door, just push the button...

Later,

 

[grcforce327]

I wanted alittle more security,so I sold my vipermania vented windows and purchased their solid ones.After I did both door poppers,I didn't want to rig a wire to pull incase I get locked out,so I tied into the hot solenoid popper wire and ran it into the engine compartment.I can jump the door open if the battery still has a charge,or jump it with a 12v source I keep in the trunk.If you do this,put a diode on the hot wire right before the plug on the receiver because it won't handle the 12v jump!

 

[VPRFUN]

The instructions provided by Red94Roadster where instrumental when I installed mine. First of all, I purchased the A.P. Engineering hardtop and windows and was very nervous about locking myself out. Using a very small push button switch and relay, I installed a bypass/emergency entry just encase my fob or receiving unit had a problem. I only realized I needed a relay for the small switch after I burnt up a popper and scared the crap out of myself. It's a great story that some day I'll share with everyone.

As mentioned above, I too ran the ground wire through the door and to the ground post next to the remote receiver behind the stereo. Remember I'm paranoid, so I installed poppers on both doors using the unlock and truck buttons on the key fob. I can tell you it will only take you once to jam your door by manually locking it and then hitting the door popper to make you wish you had disengaged the manual lock system. Thank goodness there are some very smart people on this forum who wrote a procedure to help me through that one too.

Finally, you'll love them when you’re done and the install is pretty straight ahead ~ good luck.

 

[HP]

Trust me - you definitely want to disingage or remove the lock rods.
If you don't - one day someone will manually lock the doors from inside - while
you are on the outside activating the popper. Then you will be in a world of trouble. If it hadn't been for another VCA member posting his solution to this, I would have had to saw my door off.

 

[SNKEBIT]

AWESOME ADDITION!!!!!!!!!! You will not be disappointed! I use the unlock button for the driver door and the trunk button for the passenger door.
I did this mod the second day I had the car.

 

[grcforce327]

The instructions provided by Red94Roadster where instrumental when I installed mine. First of all, I purchased the A.P. Engineering hardtop and windows and was very nervous about locking myself out. Using a very small push button switch and relay, I installed a bypass/emergency entry just encase my fob or receiving unit had a problem. I only realized I needed a relay for the small switch after I burnt up a popper and scared the crap out of myself. It's a great story that some day I'll share with everyone.

What do you do if your battery is drained?I ran the jumper wire to try and cover every possible problem other than both solenoids going bad at the same time.

 

[VPRFUN]

grcforce327, it sounds like you and I did the same thing. I placed the push button switch on the black box in the engine compartment where the jumper leads are located. Using a relay, I ran a hot wire from the jumper leads to the solenoid, bypassing the keyless entry system. If my battery goes dead, like you, I can attach 12v and pop the door.

I'm sure some folks are saying to themselves, what about someone locating the emergency button and stealing the car. Yes, this is a possibility, but the push button is very small and not very noticeable. Also, climate in Alaska is such that I rarely go somewhere and leave the car unattended for very long. And car jacking doesn't appear to be one of the higher crimes here.

 

[grcforce327]

That makes more sense!There would always have to be a way to open the door on a drained battery! People really get a "kick"out of the doors opening by themselves!

Guy C.

 

[JiPi]

One of the best mods I did to my car.
Picures here.
http://www4.forum.viperclub.org/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB14&Number=650046&Searchpage
I did both doors as well. "unlock" button for the driver door and the "trunk" button for the passenger door.
If you have a 2 buttons fob (like on my 96 RT), just open it and you will see that you have in fact a two buttons case with a 3 buttons electronic. Just buy a used 3 buttons fob off ebay and swap the electronic. You won't even need to reprogramm it. Works like a charm and you won't be disappointed.