Gen 1 Thermostat Install How To With Pics

[cfiiman]

Hey Everyone,

So I started my new thermostat project today and I thought, "why not document it" for those that would like to see it. I know I would have and couldn't find where someone had done it yet. Don't know if this will be helpful to anyone but hoped it might be so here we go, will have to do several posts b/c of the pics

Part I - Getting It All Out

Start by jacking up the car in some way, I'm using my Kwiklift

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Then either by removing the lower radiator hose, or using the drain plug (that is what I did even though some say it is risky) drain the cooling system. My 94 is 16 quarts so a clean 5 gallon bucket is great, especially if you are planning to re-use like me since I flushed the system only a few months ago.

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Next I started to remove the windshield wipers and cowl cover. The windshield wipers just flip up the covers to access the bolts. Then disconnect the washer fluid hoses on each wiper. Take care to note their position for installation. The cowl is just 4 screws.

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[cfiiman]

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[cfiiman]

Next was time to get the hoses out that run to the thermostat, this was a bit of a *****, it is just really tight in there. I had to buy a pretty big set of needle nose pliers that would get in a tight space and still open wide enough to get the clamp rings off. Then I gently pried up the ends of the hoses and twisted them from side to side to break them loose. Just have patience here and take your time, it is a PITA

It is best to remove the bolts that hold the metal coolant pipes on both sides of the engine, it seems IMO absolutely necessary to get the smaller hose off the passenger side of the thermostat. This makes pulling the hoses easier b/c you can do it at both ends if that makes sense.

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[cfiiman]

After that I got down the the culprit of my cooling woes You can see from this picture the thermo is stuck open just as I had suspected

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[cfiiman]

I should have stated before that thermo comes out you have to remove the 3 torq screws from the back. The top and driver's side was easy, but the passenger side required going in from the driver's side around the back of the motor with a series of extensions and a wobbler on my socket. Once those bolts are removed make sure you disconnect the sensors back there, there are 2 of them. I also disconnected sensors at the IAC and on the intake along with removing the driver's side intake sensor just so I wouldn't damage them. It is easy trying to break stuff loose and have a plier or socket or something slip off whatever you are doing with pretty good force, so again just be careful and take your time.

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[cfiiman]

Next step is to go after the crossover. This step is optional, but mine was leaking a bit so good ole' Chuck sent me the gaskets for it as well

Go after which ever side you want first, there are 2 torq bolts on each side holding the crossover in place. I again used a series of extensions and a u-joint and wobbler to get at it through the snake intake. Once those are out just ease it back off the motor and then out the drivers side. NOTE: you have to loosen the 2 bolts that hold on the metal coolant pipe or you will never get this out without removing the intake.

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[cfiiman]

So here we are now at the end of Part I with the crossover, thermostat and housing on the bench ready for cleaning and new gaskets. I'm breaking for the night so will keep the thread going until I'm finished, hope this helps some future Gen 1 owners

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[jdeft1]

Looks good ....

Are you going to swap out those 18yo. hoses? I went with black silly-cone jobs from Snake-oyl when I did mine... (good time to swap the plug wires too).

I suggest you clean and treat those pipe ends then re-spray for a long lasting finish.

May as well buy a new radiator cap too.


cfi ---- Replace your drain plug with a standard, brass, finger-twist valve!! - The problem with some of these drain plugs is simple. Copper radiator endcaps are really weak. The plug can easily twist upon removal and rip the bottom right off the radiator!.. I did my first two with no problems. The third, however, ended up with a new radiator.

Sorry I didn't get back to you cfi.. My home building project is filling my life lately.

 

[cfiiman]

Looks good ....

Are you going to swap out those 18yo. hoses? I went with black silly-cone jobs from Snake-oyl when I did mine... (good time to swap the plug wires too).

I suggest you clean and treat those pipe ends then re-spray for a long lasting finish.

May as well buy a new radiator cap too.


cfi ---- Replace your drain plug with a standard, brass, finger-twist valve!! - The problem with some of these drain plugs is simple. Copper radiator endcaps are really weak. The plug can easily twist upon removal and rip the bottom right off the radiator!.. I did my first two with no problems. The third, however, ended up with a new radiator.

Sorry I didn't get back to you cfi.. My home building project is filling my life lately.

Jeff,

Yes, I swapped the hoses with new ones and I have a new pressure cap as well. After seeing the highway robbery places wanted for the 2 small new hoses which is $#$%@^@@ ridiculous I picked up an OEM set from another manufacture that matched perfectly as you can see in the below post, total cost 26.00 instead of 400.00, unbelievable. That is interesting on the drain plug, I will probably install a petcock on it that way you can control it better.

 

[cfiiman]

Ok here we go, got to work on it tonight:

Part II - Putting it all back together

First I cleaned all the old gasket material from the crossover and where it sits on the engine. This is a *****, plain and simple. I bought a 10.00 can of Permatex gasket remover and it did jack$hit so I was just real careful with an exacto and a scotchbrite pad.

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Next, per the Wizard's instructions, I first put on the gaskets for the crossover where it mounts to the engine. Lightly smear RTV sealant onto both sides and then I installed it and torqued it to spec which was 250 in/lbs or 20.8 ft/lbs.

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[cfiiman]

Then it was time to do the same thing to the thermostat housing after installing the new seal ring. If you elect to install that it is also a real PITA to get out and in (Chuck told me that but I had to figure it out the hard way ).

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Next I installed the thermo into the new seal ring and housing and wiggled the whole assembly into the back of the motor, it is tight, but be patient and go slow and you should get it in. I could not get a torque wrench in there so just went by "feel" on the 3 bolts on the thermo. Also I installed the sensor on the passenger side of the thermo before putting the housing in, it would be really difficult after, just a tip. The other sensor on the driver's side can be installed after you get the housing back together.

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[cfiiman]

Then I put the hoses all back together. I personally think the pressure clamps that are on the hoses **** a$$ and are the biggest PITA to remove so I switched everything over to screw type hose clamps to make things easier, plus they look better.

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Then just went back over all my notes I made about what parts I removed and double checked everything to make sure it was all back right and tight. Only thing left now to do is refill the coolant, burp the system and test it for leaks, I want to give all the new RTV a full 24 hours to cure. All in all not a bad job at all and a good way to "bond" with your snake If anyone has any questions feel free to PM, hopefully this helps someone out in the future.

Oh, and one of the most important things when you are working on your Viper, make sure you have the right gear on A special thank to Chuck Tator for getting me the parts I needed and answering all my questions

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[VYPR BYT 94]

Thanks for taking the time to put this together for others to benefit from. Great job!

 

[cfiiman]

No problem, it was a lot of fun I just got all the fluids filled back up, burped forever it seemed like, and then filled from the heater hose in the back of the motor and again burped forever lol. I'll be starting her back up tomorrow, sure would be a lot easier if they would have put that thermo on the front somewhere lol.

 

[cfiiman]

Ok, last post, just road tested my beautiful snake and she is running just right! She runs much more steady now then even before my thermo stuck open, and climbs slower as well at lights which I like, plus this is the first time since I have owned my car that there is zero coolant smell at the back of the engine where the crossover was just slightly dripping, just a tiny bit, but that is all you need to smell coolant, it is wonderful! If anyone has been farting around with a thermo issue just do it!